9n/8n still won't start

[ILL Turkey]

9n with 8n motor, front mount dist. While working tractor at idle it seemed to be idelint low, or maybe loading up. Shut it down it woule not start. Have changed points, condensor, rotor, and carp. REbuilt carb. Two questions. When setting float I set it to the gasket surface without the gasket installed. Was that correct? Second question. I have good WHITE spark. I thought it was supposted be BLUE. Or is one mans white anothers blue. I need help. Winter is coming. Thanks

 

[Tom N MS]

Float to gasket surface for setting the floar......gotta be good strong blue spark. Use an old but good plug gapped to 3/16 to check spark. Points set @.015?

 

[Colin King]

What does "...or maybe loading up" mean in your 2nd sentence?

How long had you been running the tractor when this happened?

Did you do any maintenance on the tractor before this happened? If so, what was the work?

6 volts or 12?

I'm not sure about your spark. There's no white spark. You can have orange, yellow, or blue. Check it again. Did you check spark when the engine was hot, or after it had cooled down?

Colin, MN

 

[ILL Turkey]

6 volt system. No work done on tractor before this happened. "loading up" kinda running slow, I was using the tractor at idle speed, like getting too much gas in the cylinders and not burning it. Spark was checked while the engine was cold.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Turkey........you write......."I have good WHITE spark. I thought it was supposted be BLUE. Or is one mans white anothers blue"..........yes, just as long as it ain't yellowish-orangie and jumps a 3/16-gap. Understand???

Right now, all yer crankin' and NO-startin' has FLOODED yer sparkies with invisable no-lead contaminates. Replace yer sparkies with clean dry AutoLite 437's gapped to 0.025". Don't throw yer flooded sparkies away, just dry them, one-atta-time, in a HOT running engine. Understand?

You write........"While working tractor at idle it seemed to be idelint low, or maybe loading up"........what does that mean??? It could mean weak sparkies or water in the gas, or simply miss-adjusted carb. The LAST THING you want to do is rebuild yer carb or tweak them handy-dandy adjust'ems iff'n you don't know what'chur dooin'.

Who guesses yer original problem was weak sparkies caused by overheated frontmount ignition coil.........respectfully, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[Colin King]

Dell gave you good advice ... and he's the electrical guru around here. Replace those plugs with Autolite 437s, gapped at 0.025 and change out your 6volt coil with a new coil.

If that doesn't correct the problem, check for spark when the engine is hot. Most run-time electrical problems occur because the components have over-heated, so testing when cold won't really tell you anything.

Colin

 

[Ross Pugh(NC)]

Turkey, I don't understand these people not knowing whaat "loading up" sounds like. Always been a common term to me, where I live.

 

[Eric Wheaton]

Howdy Turkey: I'm the guy with the "timing issue" and thanks to all the forum guys, think I located my problem. What I did to isolate was see if I got a timing fire when trator was at TDC (or there abouts). You don't have a timing mark on the flywheel but you can still see if spark plug gets fire when it's supposed to. My problem appears to be.... arm on distributor shaft that moves the mechanical advance is moving on the shaft. Simple. Had to continually retime the derned thing.