I am looking at 9N Ford Tractors, just getting started. Found one today, tractor runs, will idle, it won't throttle up, then dies after about 10 minutes. The people that have it, bought it about a month ago, they cleaned the gas tank out, but they can't fix it. It does have a working PTO and good tires. What could cause this problem?
NovaNewfie
Member
There is probly a restriction in the screen in the gas tank or in the screen in the filter in the carb at the brass elbow. It starves for gas if you try to speed it up. Start it up and when it quits take the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb if gas is only trickling out then thats your problem. Personally I'd check that and if it was it not fix it untill after I bought it in order to get a good deal. If you fixed the problem or told them what the problem was the price may go up or they may be unwilling to sell it.
It might also be the plug wires are on it wrong as these tractors will run really well on 2 cyl. but lack power but seeing as they cleaned the tank out my first idea would be one of the screens there are screens in the tank in the sediment bowl and in the brass elbow on the carb.
It might also be the plug wires are on it wrong as these tractors will run really well on 2 cyl. but lack power but seeing as they cleaned the tank out my first idea would be one of the screens there are screens in the tank in the sediment bowl and in the brass elbow on the carb.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & fuel in the right mixture. Because it starts & runs, it has compression. That leaves spark & fuel.
First, it is important for you to tell us if your tractor has a 6 volt or 12 volt electrical system. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine.
There are three very important tools you always need to have in your N tool box: a 3 inch piece of wire w/ alligator clips on each end, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least 3/16” ( ¼” is better) and a 7/16 box end wrench. And, you really do need a working ammeter. With these tools, you can quickly narrow down most N problems to spark or fuel.
Next time it stops, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two. First, check for fuel. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem. So, next, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the ammeter doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it dip? Next, get the old plug, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 3/16” gap, you probably don’t have a spark problem. If it won’t jump the 3/16” gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter shows a constant discharge, or doesn’t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem. If it doesn’t have spark after you jump the ignition switch, post back for more info on further troubleshooting.
If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank.
There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That’s why removing the bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to do it. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air, so that's why you need to use a spark plug. Or, a store bought plug checker. Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air crates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running. There are other good ways to check for fuel & spark, but these ways work for me.
50 Tips
First, it is important for you to tell us if your tractor has a 6 volt or 12 volt electrical system. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine.
There are three very important tools you always need to have in your N tool box: a 3 inch piece of wire w/ alligator clips on each end, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least 3/16” ( ¼” is better) and a 7/16 box end wrench. And, you really do need a working ammeter. With these tools, you can quickly narrow down most N problems to spark or fuel.
Next time it stops, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two. First, check for fuel. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem. So, next, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the ammeter doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it dip? Next, get the old plug, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 3/16” gap, you probably don’t have a spark problem. If it won’t jump the 3/16” gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter shows a constant discharge, or doesn’t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem. If it doesn’t have spark after you jump the ignition switch, post back for more info on further troubleshooting.
If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank.
There are ways to check for spark & fuel that work & ways that don't. For example, having gas to the carb is nice, but having it past the float is what counts! That’s why removing the bolt in the bottom of the carb is the way to do it. And, same thing w/ spark at the plugs. Some folks think that checking for spark means pulling a plug wire off & looking for one. Well, it's the distance the spark jumps at the plug that gives you the info you want. It takes about 17kv to jump a 3/16" gap & 22kv to jump ¼” in the open air, so that's why you need to use a spark plug. Or, a store bought plug checker. Remember, it’s 14psi outside of the engine & about 90psi at a 6:1 compression ratio in the cylinders & compressed air crates electrical resistance, so you really need the 17-22kv to fire the plugs when the engine is running. There are other good ways to check for fuel & spark, but these ways work for me.
50 Tips
the needle valve in the carb that runs off of the float can hang up on its seat. when you use a screw driver to put the seat in you can creat a bur on the I.D. of your seat. If the needle valve is turned in the right position it can catch and not open up all the way. I had this same problem for a couple of years, it would come and go.
F7Hooligan
Member
Just remember, if you do buy it-we like pictures!
So what was the outcome of this?
When I got my 8N it too would only idle. I found a 4" plug of oily grass in the air intake clogging the air flow. As soon as I cleared it out and cleaned up and replaced the oil in the air filter canister, she ran like a top!
-Bill
Dallas, TX
1948 Ford 8N (built in '47)
Front mounted Dist, Converted to 12v
http://photobucket.com/Ford_8N
When I got my 8N it too would only idle. I found a 4" plug of oily grass in the air intake clogging the air flow. As soon as I cleared it out and cleaned up and replaced the oil in the air filter canister, she ran like a top!
-Bill
Dallas, TX
1948 Ford 8N (built in '47)
Front mounted Dist, Converted to 12v
http://photobucket.com/Ford_8N
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