Mike Rakow
Member
Hello again.
Just a quick follow up, I had posted several times previously relative to a no spark/weak spark/no start issue we were having. We had done a 12v conversion, complete tune up, new starter, new battery and a new carburetor. I finally got this squared away, with the tips and advice recieved here. What we determined was several instances of "operator headspace" needing adjustment.
The best advice we rec'd was to remove/install the entire dist/cap/coil as a unit. This helped me see the bent pigtail on the rear of the coil, that did not make contact with the brass screw. it also helped me see that when previously trying to install the coil on the mounted dist, I bent the front tab, as well. But by taking it apart as a unit, on the workbench, I could remove the cap w/the coil still attached to the distributor, then remove the rotor and gasket, and really get a good look inside. I also noticed at one time that the retaining ring for the backing plate for the points was not seated properly, and allowed the whole plate to shift out of position. thanks again to everyone who shared their tips and advice, as I walked through this process, ruling out defective parts and gaining a better understanding of the electrical system.
So now we have it starting and running pretty well. I am in the process of converting the square coil to an automotive coil, but that is a different post. Can someone offer some basic tips on how to properly adjust the carb? We did install an new carb last winter, an original style Marvel model. I am not sure it was ever set up properly in the first place, due to complications with hte electrical system. I see there are only three screws, but what is the best, most logical way to approach this? Should I reset the adjustment screws as the manual states, starting from "known" adjustment? Or simply start fiddling with them as they are now?
It appears to run rougher than it should, both at idle and when pulling a finish mower. I think it should be "smoother". My point of reference is earlier this summer, at my churches fair, one of the amusement rides was a small ferris wheel, that was powered by the front end of a Ford tractor. This thing just hummed along all night long, like a darn BMW!!! I want my tractor to sound like this one did.
Thanks in advance for your anticipated cooperation and for expanding my knowledge of this old machine.
Mike
Just a quick follow up, I had posted several times previously relative to a no spark/weak spark/no start issue we were having. We had done a 12v conversion, complete tune up, new starter, new battery and a new carburetor. I finally got this squared away, with the tips and advice recieved here. What we determined was several instances of "operator headspace" needing adjustment.
The best advice we rec'd was to remove/install the entire dist/cap/coil as a unit. This helped me see the bent pigtail on the rear of the coil, that did not make contact with the brass screw. it also helped me see that when previously trying to install the coil on the mounted dist, I bent the front tab, as well. But by taking it apart as a unit, on the workbench, I could remove the cap w/the coil still attached to the distributor, then remove the rotor and gasket, and really get a good look inside. I also noticed at one time that the retaining ring for the backing plate for the points was not seated properly, and allowed the whole plate to shift out of position. thanks again to everyone who shared their tips and advice, as I walked through this process, ruling out defective parts and gaining a better understanding of the electrical system.
So now we have it starting and running pretty well. I am in the process of converting the square coil to an automotive coil, but that is a different post. Can someone offer some basic tips on how to properly adjust the carb? We did install an new carb last winter, an original style Marvel model. I am not sure it was ever set up properly in the first place, due to complications with hte electrical system. I see there are only three screws, but what is the best, most logical way to approach this? Should I reset the adjustment screws as the manual states, starting from "known" adjustment? Or simply start fiddling with them as they are now?
It appears to run rougher than it should, both at idle and when pulling a finish mower. I think it should be "smoother". My point of reference is earlier this summer, at my churches fair, one of the amusement rides was a small ferris wheel, that was powered by the front end of a Ford tractor. This thing just hummed along all night long, like a darn BMW!!! I want my tractor to sound like this one did.
Thanks in advance for your anticipated cooperation and for expanding my knowledge of this old machine.
Mike
[/i:c4e01cb2bd][/b:c4e01cb2bd]