9n front mount will not start

[Bobby Lucas]

Hey guys sorry if anyone got mad by anything i said. I was not trying to get cute with anyone i just want to get my tractor to run.

Sorry if i made anyone ticked off it wasnt meant to be said that way i was just trying to let you know what all i have tried and it hasnt worked.

Maybe someone could come up with some new ideas for me to try? So thanks for all the replys and i will talk to you all later.

Thank you
Bob Lucas

 

[Royse]

Bob, do you have a multi-meter or a voltmeter you can use?
Check the voltage at the small wire on top of the coil.
It should read battery voltage with the points open.
It should drop to about half that with the points closed.
If you don't have a meter, use a test light.
It should be bright with points open and blink when the engine
is cranked over. All with key on of course.
If that reads correctly, do you have spark at the plug wires?
Use a spark tester or just hold one (at a time) about 1/4 inch
away from a good ground while rolling it over.
Should have a good blue/white spark, not yellow/orange.
If no spark at the wires, make sure the contact under the coil
is making contact with the top of the distributor cap.
It can be gently bent to make good contact.
Let us know what you find!

 

[Bobby Lucas]

Royse yes i wired a test light inline with the wire coming from the front of the tractor and it was blinking as it was turning over.

I hadnt tried that today tho i will try it again tomorrow and i have also changed the ingnition switch. It didnt make any difference this thing has been frustrating to say the least.

I printed off one of jmors wiring diagrams for a 9n 2n while ago and i will check the wiring to make sure i got the two new resisters i wired in correctly i wired them just like the other ones that were in there but who knows this tractor is running me ragged.

Thanks Royse for the post i do thank you i will try it tomorrow.

 

[Bobby Lucas]

I got to thinking while ago too ,that when it backfired the one time i got it started and it ran for a little while then the points broke it backfired and popped louldly one time and i might have fried the coil do ya reckon? Please let me know if you think it might have fried it?

Thanks
Bob Lucas

 

[Dell (WA)]

Bobby........didja know when you wired a test lite INLINE with the 1-wire to the dizzy from the front of yer 9N, you have just added another resistor to yer sparkies circuit. That is 3-RESISTORS!!! No wonder you have problems starting yer 4-nipple frontmount 9N. 6V or 12V, that is just too many resistors. Ittza LAW; Kirchhoff's Law. Surprizingly enuff, iff'n you'd run yer test lite from the top of the squarecan ignition coil terminal to ground, it would also BLINK!!! And would NOT cause weak sparkies. Isn't that AMAZING???? ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[W_B]

(quoted from post at 04:28:00 09/13/13) Hey guys sorry if anyone got mad by anything i said. I was not trying to get cute with anyone i just want to get my tractor to run.

Sorry if i made anyone ticked off it wasnt meant to be said that way i was just trying to let you know what all i have tried and it hasnt worked.

Maybe someone could come up with some new ideas for me to try? So thanks for all the replys and i will talk to you all later.

Thank you
Bob Lucas

Hi, Bob. I don't know what you've been advised up to now, but I'll relate my issues and fixes I had with my 9N and an 8N.

First the 9N... have owned it 20 years and and when I had starting issues I'd just do a tune up and it'd be good for a few years. More recently it got to the point that wouldn't work and it was running poorly if it did start. I did a complete carb rebuild (on the 8N too while I was at it). Also when putting new points in discovered a short to ground in the dizzy, fixed that and charged the battery up, new plugs also. Started right up and ran good. My battery is an older one and isn't getting enough voltage to start it, runs fine when it starts. I've been jumping with a 12V battery and it fires right up. Want to do a 12V conversion (this is a worker that has to start in all kinds of weather) so not buying another 6V battery.

The 8N, other than the carb, was the same issue, needed a tune up and did put a new 6V battery in it. Also put a new key switch in as I was hot wiring it up to then. Starts pretty well but have to crank on it a bit and giver 'er some choke and she goes.

Best advice is to follow the advice given here, carefully check everything, only takes one little issue to cause a problem on these old girls. It will go once it all works right.

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 00:09:16 09/13/13) I got to thinking while ago too ,that when it backfired the one time i got it started and it ran for a little while then the points broke it backfired and popped louldly one time and i might have fried the coil do ya reckon? Please let me know if you think it might have fried it?

Thanks
Bob Lucas

I wouldn't want to guess at replacing parts yet.
They're expensive, testing is free. Except for a little hair.
The light doesn't need to be "in line". Just one end to the
distributor and the other connection to ground as Dell said.

What two resistors do you have in line with the coil?
Do you know what resistance value they are?
One should be the original wire wound ballast resistor on the
back of the dash. IF you have a 12 volt coil, that should be
the only one you need. Hard to tell if you have a true 12 volt
coil unless you have a pretty decent multi-meter/VOM.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" might have fried the coil"

No, that didn't happen.

Follow the advice Royse gave you & it will start.
75 Tips

 

[Bobby Lucas]

Yep i know i took the light out while i was trying to start it (rewired the wire back together)and it wont fire to the plugs.

Can i just wire a wire from my positive battery post and to the coil and see if that wiil do it?