9N Front tire change

I just got new front shoes for my 9N
I went to my local Mechanic to get them broke down, he would not mount the new front tires and tubes until I removed all of the light rust and painted the insides of the rims
I am not saying he's wrong that is just ole SKOOL
He has many old ford tractors at his shop
So I trust his judgement.
A wire brush and angle grinder made short work of it and I put 3 coats of primer on it .
It may be over kill but it's not wrong either
I will probably just remount them myself with trie spoons
Question should I put baby powder on The tubes before reinstalling and at what point do you install the tubes after you get the tire half way on.
 
I don't powder mine but it's not wrong to do it either. Get one bead on then insert the tube, align the valve stem and tug it through. Spoon the other bead in place (don't pinch the tube) and fill-er-up
 
I do all my own tire work - fronts and rears.
Drive along the edge of the rim with the pickup to break the bead. Fronts are child's play.
Yes you put one side of the tire on the rim then insert the tube.
If your primer is completely dry I doubt you'd need any talcum power. I never use it. If not a few days dry I guess it would help prevent the tube from sticking to the paint. Wont hurt anything in either case.
I always use dish soap to help the tire slip over the rim.
Nice to have new 'meats' on your vehicle or tractor.
I'm going to break down a set of fronts this morning myself. Rims are new and powder coated but I want to paint them a different color. Hoping to just scuff them a little so the new paint will grab.
 
I tie and tape a strong string to the valve stem before putting it through the hole in the rim. I tie the other end of the string to a lug hole so the valve will not pull back into rim when I am getting the second tire bead over the rim. It is frustrating to get the tire on only to find the valve has pulled back into the rim and you need to break it down and start over again.
 
Very good point. I find alots of people don't understand that. Also
you should let your top coat fully dry before installing. With front
rims you can put them in the oven at about 150 degrees to speed
up the process.
 
The local tractor tire dealer taught me to put the tube in the
tire and air it up part way prior to putting it on the rim.
It gets all the folds and wrinkles out and keeps them out when
installing, plus lets you position the valve stem at the correct
angle for the hole in the rim.
Probably more importantly it helps keep me from pinching the tube
with the tire iron. The tube can move itself out of the way more easily.
Like trying to pop a balloon with your finger.

Prior to him showing me that, I did them just as others described.
One bead on, then the tube with something to guide the valve
stem. Blow it up and let the air out several times to get wrinkles
and folds out, etc.
 
I went tubeless about 10 years ago.
I just run car/truck tires on the front. Free.
And I haven't pinched a tube since. :)
I sandblasted the rims this morning.
Rattle canned a little primer on them as the powder coat got a bit thin in some places.
I just did the front and back. Insides I left alone.

100_1741.jpg
 
I sprinkle baby powder inside the tire to "slick up" the tire/tube and after I get the valve stem through the hole in the rim I screw on a 4 way valve stem tool to keep it from pulling back through.
4 Way Tool
 

What did the rims come off of? I need to get me a pair for tubeless tires. The red-head gets ornery if I make any ruts in the yard. :shock:
 
They are standard impliment rims.
New they are about $110 each.
I run 14s on my mowing tractor and am putting 15s on this tractor I'm rebuilding here.
You can get 16s too.
No tubes saves you a few bucks and a lifetime of free tires makes them more than a break even proposition. And you can fix a flat with a tire plug without removing it from the tractor.
As for scuffing the lawn, I've been experimenting with about 200 lbs of weight on my front end.
I'm finding that just like rear ballast helps you spin less, front weights help you scuff less.

100_14001_zps59ce717d.jpg
 
I replaced my fronts while recovering from heart by-pass surgery.
Took me 2 days but I did it.
Forgot the baby powder tho.
 
No tires on them, just the rims - and the valve stems are extra too.
The suburb I live in has a recycling center that's open on Saturday mornings. Get rid of your scrap metal, tires, etc for free.
So I just go down there and look in the tire dumpster for good used ones when I need a pair.
I'd like to find a set of 15" bias plys down there just because I think they they look cool on the front of a tractor.
I checked again this morning but no luck.
 
That "shocks" you? I don't understand why. The oven is just a tool. I
use it as needed. I'm sure others here have used their ovens for
more than just cooking food. Never dried your old tennie shoes in
one? But each to their on. But don't be shocked. If that shocked you
I could tell you other things I've done that would terrify you.
 
i air mine a bit too. helps prevent pinching. i use tire soap for mounting. ruglyde is the napa one i'm currently using.
 
Thanks all for the information.
I will paint a top coat tonight over the primer and I am sure tomorrow will be another sit in the park day so I will wake up Mike from his all day nap and get them mounted.
NOX John reminded me I have a new tool I picked up that screws onto your valve stem thread through the hole in the rim and has T handle to pull it in also has a valve stem tool on the T I even remember where I put it LOL
 
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