9n gov assembly

[TomN]

ok.... I posted yesterday about the carb issue... I have at least "some" throttle control after setting carb.... The gov assembly seems loose... I never had this issue until a friend of mine put a new carb on... it is almost like there is a bad bushing in the 3 arm assembly.... and of course, the gov is not working properly.....
I want to take gov off.... I am aware of the 1 inch 1 3/4 inch bolt issues... but what should I be aware of before attempting to take gov housing off? Someone said you can screw up the timing... ??

Also, where can I get a TO-4 book... If I am going to have an 8n and a 9n, I should make the investment and get one.... since I do follow instructions well... I think I can solve many of my issues with that..

TomN

 

[Bruce (VA)]

If you didn't habve the issue until you put a carb on it, why do you think the governor is bad? I'd suspect incorrectly installed linkage. The short linkage arm goes to the short rod on the governor..

Check the governor before you pull it off.

There are three ways to check to check the operation of the governor. Get the throttle lever at it's lowest point (engine ideling) Then, start tapping the throttle lever slowly open. How far does the throttle move before the engine speeds up? Lack of low speed throttle response (like about 1/3 of the throttle) is the classic symptom of a bad or out of adjustment governor. Next test, put it in gear at about 1/4 throttle, put your foot on both brakes & let the clutch out. The engine should throttle up as the governor arm opens the throttle plate in the carb to compensate for the load on the engine. Next test, w/ the tractor running, pull on the rod going to the carb; does the governor pull back? If that does not work, get out the I&T FO4 manual & check out the 'adjusting governor' paragraph. Finally, before I paid $200 or more for a governor, I'd pull it off & open it up. It could just need new balls & races.

If you do need to remove it, just take it off. The governor has nothing to do w/ the timing.

Remove the set screw at the 7 o'clock position to remove the insides.

Observe tip # 1 when you put it back on.

Check out tip # 39 for my suggestions regarding manuals. This site has them as does nnalert's.
50 Tips

 

[TomN]

Hey Bruce... thanks for the tip! And yes, I DID download your 50tips lol..last week...

There seems to be quite a bit of play in the 3 arm assembly... Gove does not throttle up like my 8n... Throttle control is MUCH better after fixing carb adjustments... but as you said, "low" speed is the worst... I can move throttle lever almost an inch before the starts to throttle up... I was just outside playing with it.... you seem correct, that it may be the linkage... I am not sure if something got bent when he put new carb on...

also, yes, at 3/4 throttle, the gov will pull back when I reach in and hit throttle contol on carb....

TomN

 

[TomN]

.... this is a great place!! to all of you on here, it is great having so much knowledge so close! To Bruce, Dell, Soundguy, and everyone else on here, many thanks!!!

 

[jackinok]

bruce about covered it,
but a few things you can check.first look for wear in the throttle linkages,likely place is at bottom of throttle control rod,next check for sideplay in gov arms.if excessive you can cut a shim out of a pop can or something of the like to make up.ive bored the arms out on one of mine with a tool made for reaming piston pin holes and used a regular off the shelf bushing i found,but its a lot of work .next, look for slack in the gov spring. it should be at rest(idling) just snug with no loosness.adjust this by using a big pair of channel locks and bending loop on end of spring closed a little at a time effectivly shortening spring.all these things will make you lose throttle control to some degree,all together will make you lose a bunch.not aware of any way to get timing out by removing or replacing gov a 9n.basically all it does is sense rpms, position doesnt matter.initial timing on dist is contrlled by a off set slot but its hard to get that wrong also if you know it.TSC,attwoods,most farm stores of the like carries those manuals,as does this site

 

[TomN]

... thanks for the tip.... again, I had a buddy work on this... and after reading all the things on here, I probably could've fixed it myself... lol..
There is a TON of sideplay in the 3 arm linkage on the shaft.... that is why I may have thought it needed a new bushing or the bearing that holds it....
Thought process was that I may need new part # 9n18190 and maybe 9n18182....
again, I was not there when he replaced new carb... and after I had to take carb off, set all the adjustments, I am not really impressed by the work he did....
I thought of a "shim"... hence the questions about removing the gov housing.... He led me to believe removing it can screw up the timing, again, hence my question...
The spring seems ok, so I don't wanna mess with it.... but, I did consider it as an option...
There has to be another issue, especially after I had NO problem before new carb installed.... I didn't remember the gov assembly being this sloppy before-hand.... Yes, the linkage is all correct..... I did check that.... I think he frigged something up with the linkage... bent it or something.....

 

[jackinok]

i doubt seriously,that changing the carb made the gov more loose unless you broke something,or have the linkages on wrong somehow.you may pull linkage to carb off work it by hand and see if you feel any binding on throttle shaft.if the flapper inside carb is on upside down or wrong that can cause binding that along with loose arms would show up when you changed carbs.cant think of anything else off hand .have you tried changing carbs back to see if problem remains?that might help narrow it down some.