9n Head Gasket Replacement - Final Steps

[Zaximus]

My 9n was having problems pointing at a worn head gasket (coolan t in oil, oil in coolant, burning coolant, etc). I have a friend that's very knowledgable with old tractors and he gave me a basic rundown of replacing it. I have taken the head off and used a wire brush attachment for my drill to polish everything up. I think I'm ready to put it back together, but I want to be sure before I get started.

First, I'm wondering if I've gotten rid of enough of the buildup. Most of the top of the block and the head look pretty good at this point, but there are a few areas (particularly on the pistons) that are still a little black (see attached images). Do I need to keep working to get these areas cleaned? If so, is there any kind of cleaner I should use?

Regarding putting the new head gasket on, I've read advice from some people that it should be sprayed on each side with copper sealant. Is this important, or can I go without it? Where could I buy it?

Finally, I've read that the torque specification when reassembling is different depending on whether you have bolts or studs. I don't know the difference. How do I know which one my engine has?

Any other general pieces of advice for the re-assembly process?

 

[Zaximus]

I had some trouble uploading the images. Here are links to the pics:

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_1.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_2.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_3.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_4.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_5.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_6.jpg

 

[Zaximus]

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_1.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_2.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_3.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_4.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_5.jpg

http://files.classyllama.com/def4b6a5/tractor_engine/20151107_6.jpg

 

[Sycamorecreek]

(quoted from post at 13:03:54 11/07/15) My 9n was having problems pointing at a worn head gasket (coolan t in oil, oil in coolant, burning coolant, etc). I have a friend that's very knowledgable with old tractors and he gave me a basic rundown of replacing it. I have taken the head off and used a wire brush attachment for my drill to polish everything up. I think I'm ready to put it back together, but I want to be sure before I get started.

First, I'm wondering if I've gotten rid of enough of the buildup. Most of the top of the block and the head look pretty good at this point, but there are a few areas (particularly on the pistons) that are still a little black (see attached images). Do I need to keep working to get these areas cleaned? If so, is there any kind of cleaner I should use?

Regarding putting the new head gasket on, I've read advice from some people that it should be sprayed on each side with copper sealant. Is this important, or can I go without it? Where could I buy it?

Finally, I've read that the torque specification when reassembling is different depending on whether you have bolts or studs. I don't know the difference. How do I know which one my engine has?

Any other general pieces of advice for the re-assembly process?

If you don't know the difference between a stud and a bolt hole maybe you'd better let a shop repair it.

 

[Sycamorecreek]

(quoted from post at 13:03:54 11/07/15) My 9n was having problems pointing at a worn head gasket (coolan t in oil, oil in coolant, burning coolant, etc). I have a friend that's very knowledgable with old tractors and he gave me a basic rundown of replacing it. I have taken the head off and used a wire brush attachment for my drill to polish everything up. I think I'm ready to put it back together, but I want to be sure before I get started.

First, I'm wondering if I've gotten rid of enough of the buildup. Most of the top of the block and the head look pretty good at this point, but there are a few areas (particularly on the pistons) that are still a little black (see attached images). Do I need to keep working to get these areas cleaned? If so, is there any kind of cleaner I should use?

Regarding putting the new head gasket on, I've read advice from some people that it should be sprayed on each side with copper sealant. Is this important, or can I go without it? Where could I buy it?

Finally, I've read that the torque specification when reassembling is different depending on whether you have bolts or studs. I don't know the difference. How do I know which one my engine has?

Any other general pieces of advice for the re-assembly process?

If you don't know the difference between a stud and a bolt hole maybe you'd better let a shop repair it.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" First, I'm wondering if I've gotten rid of enough of the buildup."

It's clean enough.

I hope you kept the crap out of the rings.

" Is this important, or can I go without it? "

That depends on the gasket. Many new gaskets specifically do NOT need sealant. If yours does, get a spray can of Copper Coat at the auto parts store.

" How do I know which one my engine has?"

Your engine has studs.

" Any other general pieces of advice for the re-assembly process?"

Take the head to a machine shop & have it magnafluxed. And trued if needed.

Torque the nuts in the sequence shown in the picture: 20, 40, 55.

Put a few table spoons of oil in each spark plug hole to lube the walls & help w/ start up compression.

After you run the engine to operating temp, let it cool then retorque in the same sequence.

75 Tips

 

[4play]

Well a post that is no help at all, I give it a try.

What you want super clean is the mating surface that the gasket sits on for the head and the block, not really necessary to clean all the carbon from the combustion chamber, valves and pistons but it definitely wouldn't hurt.

The copper aerosol sealant people talk about can be found at any auto parts store, its by all the silicone and other gasket sealants.

Bolts have the hex head for you to tighten with a socket/wrench. Studs do the same thing but you thread a nut on them to tighten down. Make sure you use the right specs and tighten them in the right pattern.

 

[Royse]

Those are studs sticking up out of your block for the head to go over.
If any of them came out when you took the head off, put sealant
on the threads that go into the block before you put them back in.
If only the nuts came off, you should be good to go unless the
studs were already leaking.

There are different types of gaskets.
If I use the all metal one I use copper coat.

 

[Bob]

I use copper coat, as well.

From experience, though, if no copper coat at hand, a couple of coats of cheap aluminum paint from the dollar store works just as well.

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 17:41:26 11/07/15) I use copper coat, as well.

From experience, though, if no copper coat at hand, a couple of coats of cheap aluminum paint from the dollar store works just as well.

Good tip Bob. I bought an 8N once that someone had used white
latex caulk on the head gasket. I can assure you [i:5b517c6e2b][b:5b517c6e2b]that[/i:5b517c6e2b][/b:5b517c6e2b] does not work! LOL

 

[Hobo,NC]

I use a razor blade in a holder I like #12 blades I buy 100 at the time and the holders 10 at a time... It will get it as clean as it can be got 99% of the time...

https://www.google.com/search?q=raz...p;ved=0CDcQsARqFQoTCI2sk6i0_8gCFUIvJgodaEQIHQ

 

[ASEguy]

I won't repeat what's already been said, but add a couple. Make sure threads are clean before reinstalling the head bolts/studs and nuts. Crusty threads affect torque. Blow out all head bolt holes with compressed air prior to assembly then do the same for each cylinder.