9N Hydraulic Questions

Hi Fellas,

I need some help from you experts out there. I recently installed a Freeman Loader to my 1940 9N. I am using the 1/2"-20 Plugged hole that the IT manual calls the pressure test port to run the loader. I made a neat "banjo" fitting and included a hydraulic gauge in the circuit so I could see for myself what was going on. I was always told that the loader wouldn't go up until the lift arms went to the top of their stroke, however, I have found the following issues:

1.) The loader will not go up unless an implement is hooked onto the three point.

2.) Once an implement is attached, (I am using my grader blade) the loader goes up first, but not all the way. The loader never reaches it's full stroke, even after the blade reaches the top and the pressure gauge never goes above 500 psi.

3.) I performed the pressure test suggested in the IT manual and I weighted the grader blade down. My pressure built up to 1250 psi, the loader still went up first, reached its full stroke, then the blade lifted. According to the IT manual, it looks like I may have a bad safety relief valve, because it is creating turbulance at the 1250 psi point and I never reach the 1500-1700 psi range.

I know this has been long winded, but are these symtoms normal? I sure have spent a lot of time trying to figure this one out on my own, so I'm all ears if anyone out there can lend a hand! I can use any suggestion you might have.
 
When the three point hitch goes all the way up the internal linkage moves the valve to neutral. To make your loader work the way you have the hydraulics hooked you will need to tie the three point hitch down so that when you pull the handle back the loader will go up but you must push the handle back down to put the valve in a neutral position when the loader reaches full hieght or the pump will continue to run under full pressure.

Mark
 
(quoted from post at 20:21:35 07/01/09) Hi Fellas,

I need some help from you experts out there. I recently installed a Freeman Loader to my 1940 9N. I am using the 1/2"-20 Plugged hole that the IT manual calls the pressure test port to run the loader. I made a neat "banjo" fitting and included a hydraulic gauge in the circuit so I could see for myself what was going on. I was always told that the loader wouldn't go up until the lift arms went to the top of their stroke, however, I have found the following issues:

1.) The loader will not go up unless an implement is hooked onto the three point.

2.) Once an implement is attached, (I am using my grader blade) the loader goes up first, but not all the way. The loader never reaches it's full stroke, even after the blade reaches the top and the pressure gauge never goes above 500 psi.

3.) I performed the pressure test suggested in the IT manual and I weighted the grader blade down. My pressure built up to 1250 psi, the loader still went up first, reached its full stroke, then the blade lifted. According to the IT manual, it looks like I may have a bad safety relief valve, because it is creating turbulance at the 1250 psi point and I never reach the 1500-1700 psi range.

I know this has been long winded, but are these symtoms normal? I sure have spent a lot of time trying to figure this one out on my own, so I'm all ears if anyone out there can lend a hand! I can use any suggestion you might have.

The test port is nothing more than a tee in the 3 port lift work circuit. So you have the loader cylinder and the 3pt cylinder working in parallel - whichever load was the lighter gets moved.

To get full pump pressure at the test port you have to chain the lift arms down or attach an implement that is [u:b595f57a0e][b:b595f57a0e]too heavy for the tractor to lift[/b:b595f57a0e][/u:b595f57a0e]:

1) The lift will raise when pressure is suficient to lift the load on the 3pt. Your loader raises first becuse it's lighter and a lower pressure will cause it to go all the way up before the grader blade even starts to raise.

2) When the grader blade starts to raise hydraulic pressure goes up to what is needed to lift it - in your case that appears to be 1250 PSI. When the lift reaches the top of the stroke it shuts off the hydraulic pump - no more pressure. The gauge stays at the pressure required to lift the implement - 1250 PSI.

3) If you chain the lift down or add enough weight to make the grader blade too heavy to lift the pressure will build until the pressure relief valve opens - that should be 1500-1700 PSI if the pump and relief valve are working properly.

If it's lower than that you wither have a leak in the lift circuit, a weak relief valve, and/or a weak pump. The trick then is to figure out which one :D

From the partial results you have posted it sounds of it you have a very healthy hydraulic system If will hold that load for an extended period of time you have big bragging rights,

TOH
 
I have a 1941 9n with a "Horndraulic" loader that was purchased and installed in the 1940's. It is hooked in on the right side below the Ferguson hydraulic control lever, and it has it's own control lever and push-pull shut-off valve on top of the ferguson hydraulic unit. I can operate either it or the three point by turning the "Horndraulic" valve on or off and operating either unit I desire. The Ferguson valve must be up for the bucket to operate when the Horn valve is open. I can close the Horn valve and the bucket will stay in position and then operate the three point independently. Once this sequence is figured out, it's a piece of cake, otherwise it is confusing to say the least.
Case in point. It is possible to use front and rear units independently if things are plumbed correctly. Would be glad to forward pics to you if you want to give me your email.
 
(quoted from post at 23:30:29 07/02/09) I have a 1941 9n with a "Horndraulic" loader that was purchased and installed in the 1940's. It is hooked in on the right side below the Ferguson hydraulic control lever, and it has it's own control lever and push-pull shut-off valve on top of the ferguson hydraulic unit. I can operate either it or the three point by turning the "Horndraulic" valve on or off and operating either unit I desire. The Ferguson valve must be up for the bucket to operate when the Horn valve is open. I can close the Horn valve and the bucket will stay in position and then operate the three point independently. Once this sequence is figured out, it's a piece of cake, otherwise it is confusing to say the least.
Case in point. It is possible to use front and rear units independently if things are plumbed correctly. Would be glad to forward pics to you if you want to give me your email.

Independently - yes. Simultaneosly - I suspect not.

TOH
 
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