9N Hydraulics

[Mertz54]

Does anyone know of a tractor hydraulics specialist in central MN?

 

[Caryc]

Does anyone know of a tractor hydraulics specialist in central MN?

Maybe you should tell us what your problem is and someone could help you.

 

[Mertz54]

Okay, I'll give it a shot. About eight years ago my brother-in-law gave me a 9N. It's a sweet little tractor and I really like it. My problem is that I have little or no mechanical experience. Last fall I put in a new clutch, ring gear and throw-out bearing with the help of a friend. It runs great but I have no hydraulics.

I noticed that my fluid was low so I put in a couple gallons. It raised (very) slowly but refuses to lower. My fear is that the problems are far greater than I can handle by myself. There is a hydraulics place in town but I was thinking that someone with firsthand experience on antique tractors would be a better way to go than trying to tackle it myself.

The fellow who gave me the tractor also brought up a blade a month ago that I could use on my driveway so I hate to sell it.

If I were to bleed off some of the fluid, do you think I could get the arms to drop?

 

[Caryc]

I don't have a 9N but I do have an 8N and a MF202. I purchased the MF from a guy close enough to me that I could drive it home. He stated that the hydraulics did not work quite right. It did not have an implement on it so I managed to drive it home all right. The lift arms just hung down at the bottom and would not raise. So, I removed the right side round inspection plate with the dip stick on it. I could see that the inside linkage was not working correctly as it should when the lift lever was moved. I reached in and could not move the linkage with my hand so without the motor running, I used a small pry bar through that hole a pried a little on the lift linkage a little and it seemed to brake loose. I started up the tractor and moved the lift lever and the lift arms went up and worked perfectly after that. Then I put my box blade on to test it with the weight on it and it still worked perfectly. It still works perfectly today.

You may try something like that on your 9N but beware of something. The 9N does not have position control like the 8N has. Meaning that where ever you set the 8N's lift lever, it will lift to that height and stay there in that position. Your 9N's hydraulics go all the way up and stay there or all the way down. But it's not as bad as you think, there is a work around for that. All you need to do is purchase a set of limiter chains. You can quickly set them at any height you want your mower or blade or any implement to stay at. I use limiter chains on my 8N to keep my mower at the correct height. The chains keep it at the correct height so the hydraulic system doesn't have to work to do it. Good luck with your 9N.

 

[Mertz54]

Caryc

Excellent. Now I like my tractor again. I'll try that ASAP and let you how it turns out.

 

[John Deere D]

Caryc

Excellent. Now I like my tractor again. I'll try that ASAP and let you how it turns out.

I own a 2-N Ford and a Ferguson Tea-20.
These ladies can have position control added..........

 

[Caryc]

I own a 2-N Ford and a Ferguson Tea-20.
These ladies can have position control added..........

Yeah, I forget who was making those kits. I didn't know if they were still available.

 

[Eman85]

What fluid did you put in? How did you notice the fluid was low?

 

[Caryc]

Concerning your hydraulic fluid in your 9N, If you remove that round inspection plate on the right side to check on the linkage, The level of the fluid should be even with the bottom hole on the case. If you add fluid through the hole in the transmission, it takes quite a while for it to seep into the rear end, so don't be so quick to keep adding fluid into the trans.

 

[Mertz54]

Hello everyone,

I have a dipstick on my tractor. I put in some stuff from Mills Fleet Farm (Upper Midwest) called Tractor Transmission/Hydraulic fluid. I did some research online and chose something recommended by a Jason1PA who has some very good videos on hydraulics. I believe he recommended something rated 134D for Ford/New Holland.

Anyway, the fluid was below the low mark so I added quite a bit, not knowing how much it would take. Today I drained some of it out, because it was well above the full mark, making a big mess in the process. I was able to remove most of the bolts in the dipstick plate but not the last. (Isn't that the way it always goes? ) I applied PB Blaster and am letting it soak overnight.

"The level of the fluid should be even with the bottom hole on the case. If you add fluid through the hole in the transmission, it takes quite a while for it to seep into the rear end, so don't be so quick to keep adding fluid into the trans." Good information. Thanks.

Caryc, I'm looking at my FO-4 manual. I'm assuming you have the same when I ask the following question. When you talk about breaking loose the linkage, do you mean the Control Arm in Figure FO133 (page 89)?

Thanks to all of you for contributing!!

 

[504]

Do you know you must have the PTO in gear for the lift to work?

 

[Mertz54]

504, I do know that. Although, I've been assuming that that means the lever is pushed toward the rear of the tractor. Am I close?

 

[John Deere D]

504, I do know that. Although, I've been assuming that that means the lever is pushed toward the rear of the tractor. Am I close?

"IF" the PTO is turning when the engine is running....then you must have the PTO in gear. IF the PTO is tuning then your Hydraulic pump should be turning.
Note FIG FO129....Sleeve-717 ...page 86
Note Fig FO104...#33....
Power transmission to the PTO and Hydraulic Pump is from the Lower out put shaft of the Transmission..

 

[Mertz54]

"IF" the PTO is turning when the engine is running....then you must have the PTO in gear. IF the PTO is tuning then your Hydraulic pump should be turning.
Note FIG FO129....Sleeve-717 ...page 86
Note Fig FO104...#33....
Power transmission to the PTO and Hydraulic Pump is from the Lower out put shaft of the Transmission..

PTO is turning. I took the plate off the right side, as Caryc suggested and the fluid level looks good. I'm not sure how much movement of fluid there should be though when the tractor is running.

 

[Jim L WA]

You might just see some swirling in there. But with the tractor off, reach down in there and see if that control valve is moving in and out of the chamber when you move the control lever up and down.

 

[JMOR]

................and, on control valve movement, don't be fooled into thinking all the right parts are moving when in reality they are not.

https://imgur.com/ne9gr1b

https://imgur.com/glg2RBa

 

[Caryc]

You might just see some swirling in there. But with the tractor off, reach down in there and see if that control valve is moving in and out of the chamber when you move the control lever up and down.

That's what I meant about checking the linkage. You can hold on too the linkage at the bottom while working the lever and see if it's moving. Just don't do it with the engine running.

 

[Caryc]

................and, on control valve movement, don't be fooled into thinking all the right parts are moving when in reality they are not.

https://imgur.com/ne9gr1b

https://imgur.com/glg2RBa

GOOD POST

 

[Mertz54]

Okay, perfect. I did take off the right plate but couldn't feel any movement. Kind of hard to tell because there isn't much room to feel around in there.

I'll try the other side and see if that makes any difference. Looks like the wife is going to have to help. Besides, this tractor originally belonged to her uncle in WI. I don't think that's too much to ask.

 

[Caryc]

Okay, perfect. I did take off the right plate but couldn't feel any movement. Kind of hard to tell because there isn't much room to feel around in there.

I'll try the other side and see if that makes any difference. Looks like the wife is going to have to help. Besides, this tractor originally belonged to her uncle in WI. I don't think that's too much to ask.

It's the right side plate as you're sitting on the tractor.