Bman0612

Member
Hello All, I am working on a 1941 Ford 9N that I picked up off a neighbors yard. It sat for over 10 years so what the owner remembered about it is all I had to go on. Based on his report of why it was parked I was in the process of replacing the pistons+rings but upon dropping the oil pan I am immediately concerned. Right under where the flywheel would sit within the pan I am seeing what remains of a gear. I am completely new to working on these older machines. Who wants to break the bad news to me on what this gear most likely was before it died.
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Hello All, I am working on a 1941 Ford 9N that I picked up off a neighbors yard. It sat for over 10 years so what the owner remembered about it is all I had to go on. Based on his report of why it was parked I was in the process of replacing the pistons+rings but upon dropping the oil pan I am immediately concerned. Right under where the flywheel would sit within the pan I am seeing what remains of a gear. I am completely new to working on these older machines. Who wants to break the bad news to me on what this gear most likely was before it died. View attachment 125066View attachment 125067View attachment 125068View attachment 125069
Inside the oil pan it can only be the oil pump gears or a cam or crankshaft gear.
 
It's the starter gear. From the condition of the ring gear, it probably climbed up on the teeth more than once, cracked and then shattered.
The ring gear must be replaced.
Make sure that the installer has experience with N ring gears.
 
I am planning to buy an entire new starter assembly. The existing unit was in tough shape already. The more I look, the more issues I find.
 
And we're off! Time to split the tractor to replace the ring gear on the flywheel and find what other fun you'll find.
 
I have found the same pieces in quite a few N's I've had apart over the years, small pieces like those teeth don't hurt nothing but big chunks of starter drive will bust a hole in the bell housing if not removed, seen it a few times. And yes yours does need a ring gear.
 
New question. Rod bearings. Are these standard, they read DAB 5510 65-23 (photo). And based on the caliper reading do I need to replace?
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Hi Bman0612,
Cant help with your posted numbers.
Specs are listed in F0-4 manual--- here it is

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Good practice is to use a finger nail across each journal wanting to not find ridges. Plastigauge is available at auto parts stores, and when placed between a journal and the bearing, with cap torqued to spec, will show how much clearance is present, so how much ware.
I use a 2"-3" outside mic on the crank, as I'm not trusting my caliper so much for this amount of precision.
This site has many listings under "Engine Bearings"
Its super easy to make math errors if not used to numbers right of the decimal point, so suggest pad and pencil to be certain.
 
Most Calipers are a little too crude to get accurate =/- 0.001" Mics and snap gauges (best) or plasti gauge (also kind of crude).

When you do ring gear good time to do clutch and input shaft seal.
 
New question. Rod bearings. Are these standard, they read DAB 5510 65-23 (photo). And based on the caliper reading do I need to replace? View attachment 125351
Welcome to "YT"
Your Tractor,your $$$$$$$$$$'s.
Is this project a fun type endeavor,or you intend on the machine to operate and run properly?
All the best with your project......
I'm NOT familiar, with the engine you now own...
Are the Crankshaft bearings designed such, as to have Crush?
Accuracy, with an Outside micrometer shall tell you if the Crankshaft Journals are ROUND,EGGED,TAPPER,etc,etc,

On the Internet enter, Bearing DAB 5510.......Then read the post from several years ago from a "YT" member

Chances are, your engine to some degree, is suffering from previews owner syndrome....:(
Out side Micrometer......:)
Respectfully:
Retired Chief Relief Power Engineer.
 

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