9N rear wheel studs

[NW Ford]

I'm working on a 9n tractor that the stud in the brake hub that hold the wheel on are striped out. I've gotten several aftermarket studs with the part number 9n1117, the shoulder on the new studs in several thousands smaller than the original ones I drove out and doesn't fit tight in the hole in the hub. Have even gotten a couple from new Holland and they are the same way. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[WW2N]

Well if were on the same page all I can say china turkey or india.On my parts break down manual 9N1117 is correct

 

[Scott PA]

They are loose to install, the Ford dealer had a swedging tool to expand the shoulder like you would a rivet once it is through the drum to keep tight, not many dealers have the tool anymore. It looked like a large punch, the center was hollow to go over the threads and the end that contacted the shoulder was angled like a chisel and dug into the shoulder to expand the steel, you put the head of the bolt on a solid post or railroad iron.

 

[WW2N]

NW I took a look at my 2N. The collar on those bolts should fit tight in the hole,they have a flat spot on the head that strikes a raised stop on the drum and will keep the stud from spinning when the nut is put on. Your holes for some reason are too big or the bolt collar is to small. I would do this, put a large pair of vice grips on the stud head and tighten the nut up till stud can be held by the stop and tighten. I have never seen the tool scottpa is talking about but I understand what he is saying. If the holes were correct size the stud could be driven in from the back side with a bp hammer. I am betting years of ware have wobbled and the holes have gotten bigger. Post back if ya need more help or if ya get it fixed.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I would just tack a couple of bumps around the shoulder with the welder. Pull them in tight with the lug nuts.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 22:40:11 03/24/15) They are loose to install, the Ford dealer had a swedging tool to expand the shoulder like you would a rivet once it is through the drum to keep tight, not many dealers have the tool anymore. It looked like a large punch, the center was hollow to go over the threads and the end that contacted the shoulder was angled like a chisel and dug into the shoulder to expand the steel, you put the head of the bolt on a solid post or railroad iron.

Should be easy enough to make the swaging tool. I have a 9N sitting here and I'll give it a whirl later today. Cutting edge should be hardened but if you are only going to do two or three it should hold up OK.

TOH