9n runs only with Choke Pulled out

[Jim Oregon]

Hello,

I also have the same problem. I've got a 9n. The Marvel TSX 33. It would only run well with the choke out. I then had problem starting. It has sat for several months before I tried to start again. The carb was overflowing when I tried to start. I tapped lightly with a hammer and overflow seems to have stopped. After changing battery, sparying starter fluid and pulling the air cleaner tube it Started! But has same problem and it only runs well with the choke almost 90% engaged.

The Csrb is Marvel Scheble TSX 33. Front Mount distributer and coil. I think it is 1940.j Plugs are the autolite 437.

I've followed this string a bit. But I'm wondering if I should begin to work on carborator.

Another issue is oil leaks from the governor linkage approx. 20 drops in 1/2 hour.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Pulling out the choke gives you a richer mixture. So, you could have either a fuel or spark problem.

A carb out of adjustment will also cause this problem; set the main jet at 1-1/2 turns out & leave it alone.

A dirty carb can cause the problem as well; clean the fuel screens.

Dirty/old gas, or water in the gas can cause this problem.

Restricted fuel flow can cause this problem; remove the bolt at the bottom of the carb & check for flow.

On my 1950 frontmount, needing choke to run is the first sign that the points need adjusting/replacing.

Old plug wires can cause the same problem.

And, finally, a vacuum leak can do the same thing. Get a hand propane torch and carefully spray it (unlit of course) around the intake manifold of the tractor while it is running. Or, you can use carb cleaner or WD40. If it speeds up, you found the leak.

Bottom line: Probably 75% of "needs choke to run" problems are fuel related, but do not rule out ignition problems. Just check the likely fuel problems first.

From your description of the sticking float, I'd say the odds are more like 95% that the problem is in the carb. A rebuild would be a wise choice.

As to the governor leak, wipe it clean & tell us the source of the leak:

1. The oil line fitting
2. The shaft
3. Between the housing & the timing gear cover
4. somewhere else.
50 Tips

 

[Jim Oregon]

Thanks for responding Bruce.

I'll give the rebuild a try. It makes sense and winter is good time to do this.

The leak on the govenor is at the main shaft for the linkage arms.

I'm new to tractor world. Bought the 9n this last spring to mow pasture. It worked well but slowly ran into what appears to be the carb issue.

thanks again for the help.

Jim

 

[HCooke]

Someone on this forum said that 90% of carb problems are in the ignition. If you have not changed or at least checked the point gap I would do that first. Make sure your spark will jump a 3/16" gap on an old plug grounded to the engine block somewhere and that the spark is snappy and blue, not weak and yeller. If you have good spark then look at fuel (carb) issues.

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 19:03:20 11/14/09) Thanks for responding Bruce.

I'll give the rebuild a try. It makes sense and winter is good time to do this.

The leak on the govenor is at the main shaft for the linkage arms.

I'm new to tractor world. Bought the 9n this last spring to mow pasture. It worked well but slowly ran into what appears to be the carb issue.

thanks again for the help.

Jim

Jim, I totally agree with Bruce, except maybe on the exact meaning of "rebuild".

A clean fuel system, and carb are a blessing!!!!

Just taking a carb apart, and sticking in new jets, and a needle, seat, and gaskets, might be a waste of money.

These carbs can "most of the time" be put back in good condition by a [b:bc5d5e0579]thorough cleaning[/b:bc5d5e0579].

Blowing out all passages, and orifices with an air compressor, and rubber tipped blow gun.

 

[chuck41]

Jim, The biggest favor you can do for yourself is
to soak the carburetor overnite in a carb clean
solution. Chuck

 

[Jim Oregon]

Just following up with a thanks to post replys. I'm getting good spark so I'll try the carb cleaning and maybe the new components based on how it looks and maybe trying after a cleaning.

thanks!

 

[GB in MT.]

(quoted from post at 17:33:57 11/14/09) Just following up with a thanks to post replys. I'm getting good spark so I'll try the carb cleaning and maybe the new components based on how it looks and maybe trying after a cleaning.

thanks!

b:daf6c10dc7][i:daf6c10dc7]
Jim;
Before ya start on your carb. cleaning, ......left click the shortcut below and read that post.
It will let you see what has to be done, to get the carb. cleaned out properly.

click here: CARB CLEANING!
HTH

Gary [/i:daf6c10dc7][/b:daf6c10dc7]

 

[MOUNTAINEER]

I had the same problem-- the trouble was rhe connection of the choke rod to the carb had been flipped over thus when you pushed the choke knob on dash in it actually choked the tractor-- when it was pulled out the butterfly choke was open and allowed the tractor to run-- before you take serious carb repairs just remove the intake sir hose and check the butterfly position-- it solved my problem..

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 22:19:26 11/14/09) I had the same problem-- the trouble was rhe connection of the choke rod to the carb had been flipped over thus when you pushed the choke knob on dash in it actually choked the tractor-- when it was pulled out the butterfly choke was open and allowed the tractor to run-- before you take serious carb repairs just remove the intake sir hose and check the butterfly position-- it solved my problem..

Errr, Uummm, Excuse me?!??!??!?!

How much did you pay who, to tell you that!?!??!?!

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 22:28:32 11/14/09)

(quoted from post at 22:19:26 11/14/09) I had the same problem-- the trouble was rhe connection of the choke rod to the carb had been flipped over thus when you pushed the choke knob on dash in it actually choked the tractor-- when it was pulled out the butterfly choke was open and allowed the tractor to run-- before you take serious carb repairs just remove the intake sir hose and check the butterfly position-- it solved my problem..

Errr, Uummm, Excuse me?!??!??!?!

How much, did you pay, who, to tell you that!?!??!?!

The end of my '49, 8N choke rod, that attaches to the carb, has a broken spring in it, it hardly ever stays on, in the rare event that I need the choke, I get off and hook it on.

I can't even in my wildest dreams.......

I can't see any bottom side up stuff...

 

[Jim Oregon]

Gary,

Great Link ! Thanks. Most helpful to a novice such as myself.

Jim

 

[GB in MT.]

(quoted from post at 20:35:01 11/14/09)

(quoted from post at 22:28:32 11/14/09)

(quoted from post at 22:19:26 11/14/09) I had the same problem-- the trouble was rhe connection of the choke rod to the carb had been flipped over thus when you pushed the choke knob on dash in it actually choked the tractor-- when it was pulled out the butterfly choke was open and allowed the tractor to run-- before you take serious carb repairs just remove the intake sir hose and check the butterfly position-- it solved my problem..

Errr, Uummm, Excuse me?!??!??!?!

How much, did you pay, who, to tell you that!?!??!?!

The end of my '49, 8N choke rod, that attaches to the carb, has a broken spring in it, it hardly ever stays on, in the rare event that I need the choke, I get off and hook it on.

I can't even in my wildest dreams.......

I can't see any bottom side up stuff...

b:4cf996d488][i:4cf996d488]

Mountaineer;
Where did ya get that info from!!!!????
I'm with Dunk.......I'd like to SEE that done!!!!! The choke plate can only be installed one way, and then the choke relief, will have to be on the inside of the choke barrel. I have NEVER seen the reverse situation of the choke rod.....as it will not leave access to the choke plate screws, for instellation.
With BAD info given in a reply on this forum, and someone picks up on that info,,.....It can cost an individual $$$$'s trying to do what is posted.
I can see mistakes.....we all make them, but, in this instance the info you gave is NOT VALID!!!!!!!
I have seen the plate and relief, installed incorrectly......NEVER the rod!!!

Gary :shock: [/i:4cf996d488][/b:4cf996d488]

 

[MOUNTAINEER]

I dont care what you guys think-- I know that at sometime some yo yo had the carb apart and screwed it back together wrong-- true the butterfly did not work like it was supposed to also the spring was gone-- I know it will not flip unless the butterfly has been screwed on to the shaft wrong-- I really do care what you all think as many times I have had answers that helped me immensly.. what ever - I would not think of giving bad info-- I resent the inferrence that someone paid me to post this info for you to suggest this makles you a first class flake in my opinion-- I am just offering what I found and how it got fixed and worked for me-- right or wrong my tractor runs with the choke in the correct position and I didnt have to a complete rebuild!!!!

 

[PeA]

I am having the same problem with my 9n. It runs with heavy choke. Also the top of the carb starts to frost a little.(lots of fuel? or..) Perhaps Mountaineer meant that his choke Linkage was connected to the wrong Ball and Post on the butterfly actuator cam? Not that the Butterfly was mounted on the "underside" of its internal pivoting rod? Anyway I put in a carb kit minus what looked like a rubber seal and a little white "wool" "donut" . (I just couldn"t figure where they went)and 9N still runs choked. Help please.