9N Start Problems Update

Pudelpointer

New User
Finally had time to wrestle with the tractor this weekend. I opened up the gap on the plug and scraped some paint off the block. Clamped the plug to the block and turned the key - no spark whatsoever.

So where do I go from here? Distributor and coil?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Bill VanderLaan
 
Bill......yes, distributor and coil.......Dell

Great answer isn't it??? I flunked mind reading, just ask my ex-wife of 32yrs. What else have you done??? or more symptoms please.

Iff'n I hadda make a guess, check yer points gap = 0.015 and "polish" yer points with a dollar bill clamped between them. Iff'n yer really cheap, torn-off strip of heavy grocery bag.
 
You mean you cannot remember everything that I have told you already? LOL! I am not very good at mind reading either.

Engine turns strong, but won't catch. New plugs and fresh gas. I cleaned the screens and have good fuel flow to the carb. Carb was leaking gas with the choke out, so I took the carb apart and checked for a stuck float, but it appears to be fine.

You suggested checking to see if I was getting any spark by opening up the plug gap to 3/16" and holding it to the block. Did that yesterday and it did not spark at all. I must admit that I am wondering if I did that right. I clamped the plug by the case/collar to a paint-free portion of the block and turned her over. No spark.

Tractor has been converted to 12-volt.

Gimme' the scoop...

Bill VanderLaan
 
Bill........it aint'chur carb.....itz'chur sparkies

There are MANY causes of "no sparkies"; from broken wires, broken ballast resistor, bad weaksister ignition switch; dirty burned ignition points. Shorted connections inside the distributor. and on'n'on. See whadda I mean???

Gittchur el-cheapo volt meter out and start tracing the volts; from the ignition switch down to yer 1-terminal squarecan ignition coil. ...then... look inside yer frontmount distributor for open and shorted connections. .......Dell, the mindless
 
While it could be your distributor or coil, I think the first thing I would try would be to jump across your ignition switch with a short piece of wire with an alligator clip on each end.

Many years ago I could not get my Jubilee to start. I did the compression check, plugs, points, condenser, rotor, cap change-out many times over and still no luck. Finally called the local tractor dealer to see if he would make a house call. Yeah, he did and after doing some of the same things I did with my same results, said I think it is the switch. He jumped the switch and she started right up. New switch cost me less than $10.00 but the service call ran over $95.00. That was an expensive day, but I learned a good lesson there and it was worth it.
 
Like Dell is hinting at, do some detective work before you just start replacing parts. Get a test light and make sure you have battery voltage going to the coil. With the points open, you should be able to light the test light on the points side of the coil. If I were going to replace anything first, it would be points and condenser as they are inexpensive and are the most likely to be faulty. I discourage the use of Champion plugs. I would get either Motorcraft or Autolite plugs for it.
 
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