9N starting problems

[SharpTJ]

So a couple months ago the tractor started running terrible.. Missing and sputtering then wouldn't restart after it died. No fire to the plug, but it would turn over fine.

Today I got around to looking at it and with key on, I have power to the coil. I replaced the coil, but now I'm not getting power to the starter. The switch seems to bench test fins as it is open normally, and closes when button is pushed, yet I get no power to the starter with it mounted.

 

[Den N Ms]

SharpTJ ,Hook the switch up to the battery cables,but don't bolt it up behind the dash.Then with the transmission in neutral push the button and see if the starter works.Some new switches need to have a couple flat washers soldered to the push button to make it longer for it to work.

 

[SharpTJ]

I have tried that and it still does not pass current through to the starter

 

[SharpTJ]

I also just tried to direct start it using jumper cable to the starter and it was a no go so instill have the nonfire issue I guess in addion.

 

[Jim L WA]

Clean the battery posts and cables. If that doesen't help, then clean the other end of the cables. So you had battery at the top of the coil, it ran bad so you bought a new coil. Did you even look at the points? Check the gap? See it they are pitted?

 

[Bilhar]

I have had the same problems, but doing research on this problem I found that 9n< will use
coils- I have gone through 3 the past 6 months. On a site I was looking at, I found that
you need a Resister in the power line going to the Coil. I am trying to find out about
the resister right now. going to install it with the new Coil. ha, I also installed a new
Starter, not sure why it failed.

 

[SharpTJ]

points look good and clean... Gap is right on.

Guess I'm going to order a coil... It shouldn't need a resisted as I'm. Still. 6V

 

[Den N Ms]

SharpT,You say,Guess I'm going to order a coil... It shouldn't need a resisted as I'm. Still. 6V.
Yes if it is still 5 volt you also need to order a OEM ballast resister for the coil for things to be correct.

9N Resistor

 

[Den N Ms]

Fat finger 6 VOLT not 5 volt

 

[SharpTJ]

I realize now what was meant... When he said "inline" I was thinking an additional resistor that may be used in 12v... The ballast resister is still good (has continuity) and mounted behind the dash.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

I don't know where you guys are reading this crap about Ford N's burning up coils -the Green & Yeller board??? ; > ) In all of my 60-+ years, I've never burnt up a coil or points for that matter. As stated, you must be leaving your key ON at shut down. I suspect you have mucked up wiring and are not listing more of your setup. OKAY, you say you are wired as the OEM 6V/POS GRN system, right? A correctly done distributor tune-up is essential. Did you set the timing correctly after you installed new points? Did you perform a continuity test on it before assembling the unit back on the tractor? Your 9N,if after s/n 12500, should have the square can 6V coil, a 1-Wire/3-Brush Generator; the roundcan cutout circuit; the OEM Ballast Resistor; a 1-Wire starter motor with NO solenoid; key switch, ammeter, neutral safety starter push button switch, and all wired correctly to OEM schematic. You do not need to buy another coil, or any other other resistor. 6V or 12V, BOTH REQUIRE the OEM BALLAST RESISTOR. You DO NEED THE EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY if using a 6V coil on a 12V switchover job. Get the distributor right first, go thru the entire wiring system for accuracy. You will check for spark after unit and wiring is correct. Forget the starter, that isn't your problem unless wired wrong. Ditto with coil too. Test your coil static with your VOM. Set to OHMS, probe 1 on pigtail, Probe 2 on terminal stud. Reading should be about 1.3 OHMS static. Net, VOM set to DC VOLTS, Probe 1 on LH terminal (as viewed from front) of Ballast Resistor -that is where the coil wire connects to, and Probe 2 anywhere to Ground. Turn Key Switch 'ON' but do not crank over engine. You should see battery voltage if points are open, and half that if points are closed. Do you have the essential owner manuals?

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR WIRING DIAGRAM, AFTER S/N12500:

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR CUTOUT p/n 9N-10505-B, AFTER S/N 12500:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Farmer Dan]

I don't know where you guys are getting this information about 9N's using a lot of coils. That is not accurate. I have been running a 12volt coil on my 9N with a 12 volt conversion since 2003 on the same coil with no resistor.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 12:36:38 01/09/19) I don't know where you guys are getting this information about 9N's using a lot of coils. That is not accurate. I have been running a 12volt coil on my 9N with a 12 volt conversion since 2003 on the same coil with no resistor.

i've got ~ 150 hours on a 12 volt conversion with a 6 volt coil and no extra ceramic blob. silly me, in the summer of 17 it started sputtering and surging once it was warmed up, and i assumed i had finally destroyed the coil, as per this particular old farmer's wives tale

but no - i put in a 12 volt coil, and it made zero difference. last winter, i replaced the key switch and condenser. one of those two was the culprit - it ran great all summer this year.

 

[AllanC]

Even if that resistor checks with a meter I would replace it. They are cheap and can be weird.

 

[SharpTJ]

(quoted from post at 05:29:09 01/10/19) Even if that resistor checks with a meter I would replace it. They are cheap and can be weird.

Alright... I "think" this project was wired correctly... I cleaned all the connections and drew a quick little schematic.

The S/N is 9N139524

 

[SharpTJ]

Heck looking at the serial, maybe she is a 2N lol

 

[HFJ]

the prefix is 9N for both 9Ns and 2Ns.

your serial number is a 1944 2N.

u should not have your headlights/work light wired thru your ignition switch. that could very well be the problem. those switches are only intended to handle the current used by the ignition. lights use much more current and that can fry the switch.

try jumpering around the switch and see if the problem goes away.

 

[SharpTJ]

Jumping the switch made no difference.

Is this the way it SHOULD be wired?

 

[HFJ]

that's a step in the right direction. in a perfect world, that wire nut is actually the common post on the OEM ballast resistor - but that difference is probably not the cause of your problem atm.

 

[SharpTJ]

The "common post of the resistor" refers to which side of the resistor?

 

[HFJ]

the bottom post in the center:

 

[HFJ]

that post has the 4 wires in your diagram at the wire nut. the yellow wire from the switch goes to upper left, red wire to upper right.