9N touch control adjustment

I recently rebuilt my 9N top cylinder and cleaned the hydraulic pump. Everything works good, but the fork assembly/control valve is sticking, just before entering chamber for pressure. I can take a screwdriver and gently pry on the fork assembly and the control valve engages. Seems to me the touch control system is not working properly. Should I pull the draft arm and see if I can spot a problem, or does the top cover have to come off. I tried adjusting it, but it does not affect it.
The 3-point arms are supposed to start dropping at 2-5/8"-2-3/4", mine starts at 6-1/2". If anyone has any suggestions, please reply. Thanks in advance.
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:32 08/22/18) I recently rebuilt my 9N top cylinder and cleaned the hydraulic pump. Everything works good, but the fork assembly/control valve is sticking, just before entering chamber for pressure. I can take a screwdriver and gently pry on the fork assembly and the control valve engages. Seems to me the touch control system is not working properly. Should I pull the draft arm and see if I can spot a problem, or does the top cover have to come off. I tried adjusting it, but it does not affect it.
The 3-point arms are supposed to start dropping at 2-5/8"-2-3/4", mine starts at 6-1/2". If anyone has any suggestions, please reply. Thanks in advance.
our touch control assy is bolted on with 4 bolts in slotted holes. Loosen and move whole assy fore/aft as needed to achieve point where lift begins with touch control lever.
 
You may have already done this, but is the fork attached to both sides of the 'T'? Make sure the control valve is seated all the way in the bore too. Can you look up from both sides of the inspection openings and see that the control fork is attached to the pivot points of the lift assembly. Oh, if I remember right dosen't that 'T' have a little jog to it? Make sure it's not up-side down.
 
Hey JMOR, you beat me by 5 minutes. I didn't say anything about adjusting it, because he said he tried adjusting it and knows that the lift should start lowering at 2 5/8 inches or whatever it is.
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:43 08/22/18) Hey JMOR, you beat me by 5 minutes. I didn't say anything about adjusting it, because he said he tried adjusting it and knows that the lift should start lowering at 2 5/8 inches or whatever it is.
ifficult to know what some people are talking about. Last thing he speaks of before saying 'tried adjusting "it"', was draft, so who knows what "it" referred to?
 
Sorry, JMOR. Instead of draft, I meant to say 'touch control'. I tried to adjust it, but adjustment has no effect on when the 3-point arms start dropping. Mine starts
dropping at 6-1/2", regardless of the adjustment to the touch control.
 
(quoted from post at 21:24:34 08/22/18) Sorry, JMOR. Instead of draft, I meant to say 'touch control'. I tried to adjust it, but adjustment has no effect on when the 3-point arms start dropping. Mine starts
dropping at 6-1/2", regardless of the adjustment to the touch control.
ow is the spring from cyl end to yoke?
 

6" sounds excessive other than that what is the complaint...

touch control what do you want it to do it does not have position control if that's what you are after... Zane Sherman can fix you up with an add on Position control set up...
 
I bought a 2N that had the fork installed backwards requiring the quadrant to be moved waaay down to lower the 3 point. Went so far as to cut a new half moon key slot in the quadrant shaft to relocate the handle. Took several disassembly's to figure it out.

Just putting it out there.
 
I bought a 2N that had the fork installed backwards requiring the quadrant to be moved waaay down to lower the 3 point. Went so far as to cut a new half moon key slot in the quadrant shaft to relocate the handle. Took several disassembly's to figure it out.

Just putting it out there.
 
(quoted from post at 09:39:19 08/24/18) I bought a 2N that had the fork installed backwards requiring the quadrant to be moved waaay down to lower the 3 point. Went so far as to cut a new half moon key slot in the quadrant shaft to relocate the handle. Took several disassembly's to figure it out.

Just putting it out there.
harpest tack in the box, huh?
 
Thanks Scott! I did not remove the fork when I rebuilt the top cover. However, I did notice that the new top cylinder had a different place to hook the spring, than the
old; My spring could be weak also.

I removed the lift control lever(touch control) yesterday, cleaned it good and installed a new gasket. I'm going to hook up an implement today and try to adjust it, with
some weight.

When I pull the top cover again, I will definately check to make sure the fork assembly is installed correctly. Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:04 08/24/18) Thanks Scott! I did not remove the fork when I rebuilt the top cover. However, I did notice that the new top cylinder had a different place to hook the spring, than the
old; My spring could be weak also.

I removed the lift control lever(touch control) yesterday, cleaned it good and installed a new gasket. I'm going to hook up an implement today and try to adjust it, with
some weight.

When I pull the top cover again, I will definately check to make sure the fork assembly is installed correctly. Thanks!
he spring is the only force available to move the valve. You should be able to look into the inspection port and observe whether or not the yoke becomes un-hinged or the spring keeps it rigid.
 
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