9N Won't Start! Carb Problem?

Pudelpointer

New User
My 9N will not start. It started and ran for about two minutes and then died. It did this about three times and now it just cranks and cranks, but refuses to turn over.

I replaced the plugs and tried to jump it with my truck, but it was not going to start. I noticed that after half a dozen tries, there was fuel dripping out from between the air hose and the body of the carb (choke was in).

Where do I start?
 
It is important for you to tell us if your tractor has a 6 volt or 12 volt electrical system. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine.

There are three tools you always need to have in your N tool box: a 3 inch piece of wire w/ alligator clips on each end, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to 3/16” and a 7/16 box end wrench. And, you really do need a working ammeter. With these tools, you can quickly narrow down most N problems to spark or fuel.

Next time it stops, check quickly for fuel then spark. When I say quickly, I mean get off the seat, grab the tools & do it right then. Do not wait a minute or two. First, check for fuel. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel problem. So, next, crank the engine & look at the ammeter. What is the ammeter doing? Does it show a constant discharge, no movement at all, or does it dip? Next, get the old plug, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine, turn the key on & crank the engine. If the spark jumps the 3/16” gap, you probably don’t have a spark problem. If it won’t jump the 3/16” gap, you have a spark problem. If the ammeter shows a constant discharge, or doesn’t move at all, that also tells you that you have a spark problem. Jump the ignition switch w/ your jumper wire & see what happens. If it runs, you found the problem.

If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank.

Lastly, all of that cranking & too much use of the choke has fouled the plugs. A weak spark & fouled plugs is not a good situation. Remove the plugs & replace them, or heat up the electrodes w/ a propane torch & reuse them.
50 Tips
 
There are so many variables here, it's hard to know where to start.

The fuel dripping out of the air inlet is a big clue.

First I'd remove a plug, lay it on the block and crank, just to verify that you have clean plugs and a fat blue spark - even though it appears you have a fuel problem.

Then, I'd take the plug out of the bottom of the carb bowl and let some fuel run into a bottle. You're looking for two things - does the flow remain steady for half a minute, or does it slow to a trickle? If so, it's a plugged fuel filter. I'm assuming it's not below freezing where you and the tractor are, which would imply other problems.


If the flow is good, then let the fuel in the bottle settle for a few minutes and see if you end up with a layer of water at the bottom? This would be condensation in the fuel tank, and of course water won't burn, so you need to drain, clean, and re-fill with fresh fuel.

The fuel dripping out indicates a stuck float or needle valve in the carb. You can remove and disassemble the carb rather easily, and if you're real careful you won't destroy any gaskets. I'd suggest you order a carb rebuild kit from this site - it's rather cheap and easy to install. While you have things apart, carefully clean all 3 fuel filters. Yes, there are 3!!

One other thing comes to mind. Fuel dripping out when the choke isn't choked, could mean the air input is clogged. That could mean a nest in the air filter, or so much gunk it is clogged. Try unhooking it altogether and see if that makes any difference.
 
Thanks for the advice. For what it is worth:

- Tractor has been converted to 12v.
- Gas is fresh.
- I put fresh plugs in this last Saturday morning (Autolites/.25 gap).
- I get pretty good flow when I take the supply line off of the carb. That said, I am not sure what it should be. Perhaps a "strong trickle" is more accurate.

Given that the plugs are new, I will clean the fuel screens, check for a stuck float (hammer handle method), check the fuel for water and open up the air cleaner. I will let you know what I find.

Bill
 
Bill.......replace yer sparkies AGAIN!!! ....Don't argue!!!!..... You've done FLOODED yer sparkies with invisible contaminates and yer lazy sparkies are driblin' down the center electrode 'stedda' jumpin' the gap like you want them to. Don't throw them away, clean'n'dry them, one-atta-time in HOT runnin' engine and save'um fer next time you have startin' issues. (and there will be a next time)

Sound like you have air filter obstruction. Mice like to build nests in air filters and also exhaust pipes. .......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Don't forget to check for spark. Remember, 75% of all carb problems are in the ignition! Open the gap on one of those old plugs to 3/16" & see if you have enough spark to jump it.
 
This may be a stupid question, but how do I "ground a spark plug"? I am thinking that I remove the plug from the engine, with the plug wire still on it and then hold the side electrode to a clean (no rust/paint) part of the engine while turning over the starter. Is this correct? Is there a certain way to hold it so I do not get jolted?

Thanks for helping to give the clueless a clue...

Bill
 
Bill.......take enny OLD sparkie and bend the side electrode out for a full 3/16" gap. Now clamp the METAL shell to enny bracket you can on yer engine. Plug enny sparkie wire to the top of yer calibrated sparkie tester. Now, with ignition switch ON, tranny in NEUTRAL, crank yer starter motor and WATCH yer tester gap fer BLUE-SNOTT sparkies. Iff'n yellowish-orangish or none, you've gott BAD SPARKIES. Now lettus know what kinda sparkies you gitt.

By clamping the metal shell to enny handy bracket with vicegrips, you will NOT GITT BITT by yer sparkies. Isn't that amazing??? .......respectfully, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
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