A clutch problems

[TDJD]

The clutch in My A has been acting up for a while, sometimes it will get stuck engaged and you have to work with it to get it disengage. Last night when I was using it, it seems like the clutch lever had a lot of travel (more than normal) and all of sudden it got stuck engaged and I couldnt get it to disengage. I pulled so hard on it that I broke the ear off the reduction gear cover. I have adjusted the clutch a few times, but if I get it loose enough where it disengages easily the clutch slips a lot. What would cause the excessive movement in the lever? Also, what would make it lock up like that? I do have some oil getting into the clutch. how does the oil get in, and what do I need to do to stop it? Any advice is appreciated! Its a late styled 47 A.
Thanks

 

[Broken wheel]

I think the toggles and dog bones are worn out. Rebuild the clutch.

 

[NoDakInMN]

We can speculate a lot about what might be going on, but the only way to know for sure is to take it apart and examine it.

 

[susandiane]

It is probably worn too much. It can be in the brake adjustment, though. If it's not on spec, it will allow the innards to move too far and it starts to go over center again. I'd check that before I pulled the thing. I pounded out many hours on a 47 A, usually cultivating forage sorghums for ensilage. Exacting driving and boring as hades. Dad bought it from a dealer in the late 50's after it had received a Krylon overhaul. It had a power block in it, but no power starter so we usually opened the petcocks on the bottom to start it. Nice tractor for general work, though. Good luck with yours!

 

[TDJD]

Ok. Will it be quite obvious to see what is worn out? What all do you normally replace when doing a clutch?
Thanks

 

[TDJD]

I was just asking to see if anyone had an idea of what Im looking for.
I havent been in the clutch before, so I dont know how obvious a
worn out part looks.

 

[TDJD]

I have the brake adjusted so as soon as it disengages the brake is applied. Is there some other adjustment that I need to make?
The A is a really handy tractor, the right amount of power for its size. I really enjoy my A.
Thanks

 

[Broken wheel]

To start with you can check the thickness of the discs to see if they are in spec. Check the sliding sleeve to make sure it is not going over center. If it does, the clutch will start to drive again when you pull the clutch lever back. Look at the dog bones to see if they are out of round on the ends. If they are they will hang up in the toggles and not let the clutch release. Put the dog bone in the toggle and see if it moves freely. If it does not they will need replaced. Also look for wear in the toggles. It's a ball and socket joint and needs to move smoothly. While you're at it take a good look at the splines on the shaft. When the clutch is all together, the last disc should stick out beyond the shaft. When you put it back together, put a light film of heavy grease on the moving parts. Not so much that it will throw off and get on the discs Also, if the discs are glazed, remove the glaxe with a light sanding. The computer is your friend, you can probably find some good videos on rebuilding your clutch. Hope this helps.

 

[coonie minnie]

All the other comments here are good, but not disengaging can also be caused by a cracked or broken clutch disk. Again, that will be determined with disassembly.

As for not stopping in the future... remember you can shut or choke the engine off in case of emergency.

 

[NoDakInMN]

(quoted from post at 08:08:15 03/21/21) Ok. Will it be quite obvious to see what is worn out? What all do you normally replace when doing a clutch?
Thanks

I guess my point was, rather than us speculating on all the things that might be worn out, take it apart and look at what specific parts might be worn out and that would allow us to give you more specific help. But often, when a clutch gets this bad, the problem is usually apparent. I had an A that was locking engaged and I didn't know what was causing it, so I took it apart and quickly found a clutch disc had broken in two and was doubling up so that the clutch stayed engaged.

But to reiterate my point, it is hard to come close to an accurate diagnosis of an internal mechanical problem by just looking at an assembled tractor, harder still when you can't see it in person. Just because what I found to be causing the same problem on my A, is no guarantee that is what is wrong with yours. I can understand the possibility that someone might be reticent to start taking things apart if you are not confident in doing so, but these tractors were designed to be maintained by people with average mechanical skills instead of expert mechanics. Over the years, I've found that most problems are clearly revealed with a small amount of initial disassembly.

 

[PJH]

I'm glad you mentioned another method for stopping the tractor.

I watched an elderly man with his knees in the seat on a rearing JD A, trying to snap the clutch loose with both hands. He said later that he knew to pull the throttle back, but he thought he had ran out of time to do so.

My wife helps me when I get one stuck (not often). The first thing that I show her is the ignition switch.

 

[Broken wheel]

This isn't meant to be a smart butt reply, but I usually replace whatever needs replaced. Some worn items will be obvious, others maybe not. Get on u-tube and find a good video on rebuilding your clutch. Watch it several times. That will help you a lot.

 

[6cylpower]

Make sure the pin for the sleeve is tight. After it wobbles loose the sleeve can rotate slightly when you engage the clutch. This changes how the dogs move and effects the tightness of the clutch It will randomly rotate and drive you nuts setting the clutch.

pin on lower left

 

[6cylpower]

(quoted from post at 06:18:35 03/21/21) I have the brake adjusted so as soon as it disengages the brake is applied. Is there some other adjustment that I need to make?
The A is a really handy tractor, the right amount of power for its size. I really enjoy my A.
Thanks

Don't have the brake set to tight do you? Should be just enough to stop the pulley, not meant to stop the tractor.

 

[Dana Peiffer]

Had a very similar problem with my 35B. Turned out to be the clutch fork shaft had partially split and would twist when I would pull on or push the clutch lever. When the clutch was engaged it was almost hit/miss to disengage it as the clutch fork shaft was partially broken.,