A Hard Starter

[Barnacle]

I just restored a 1947 Ford 2N . It's amazing that it runs at all, considering that it sat outside for over 40 years ! But, it does run well. However, getting it to start when cold, is another matter. It may take five to ten minutes to get it started ! Using the choke doesn't help at all. Once it's started and warms-up, it will run great . As long as it's warm, I can turn it off and it will start the first time; every time, while it's warm. But not so, when it's cold. The carb and the entire ignition system (12V) have been rebuilt.

Starting when cold, is wearing-down my battery and wearing-out my starter.

I'd appreciate any ideas and tips. Thanks !

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Cold engines require more gas.
I think your carb has issues.
Try a shot of starting fluid. If starting fluid works you have too low of float or a jet in carb is choked.
I have a terramite with the gas tank below the carb.
It won't start either until I installed a fuel line and primer
bulb used on boats.
Drain the carb bowl and see how much gas you get out.
I think you may have the float set too low..

Remove the bowl on the carb. Use a clear container to take the
place of the carb bowl and see how full the container gets.
Adjust float to get the fuel level up higher if needed.

 

[Janicholson]

The condition of the cables and connections are important to get both cranking and ignition operating when cold. I would check each cable and connection for quality (and at least 2gauge size). another issue is type of oil. Generally this group of tractor experts recommends 15-40 diesel grade multi weight oil. Modern car oil, or old school single weight oils are going to give problems. Modern oil like 10-30 car oil has different additives and is designed for catalytic converter use. Not the best for your 2N. While cranking when cold, the battery voltage should stay near 11.5 volts (measured across the battery posts). if much lower than this it might be weak. Jim

 

[Jerrycpp]

An old mechanic taught me this way to start my '50 8N 6-volt, and it works every time, even below zero: Fuel on; ignition OFF; pull choke; turn engine 4 revolutions; choke off; ignition on; push starter button and be ready with the choke once it starts. I also use non-ethanol fuel exclusively.

 

[wore out]

Simplest things first, make sure the
choke is closing tightly and that the
spring-loaded flap in the choke plate is
in place and functional.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Valve clearances makes huge difference to starting when cold , checking them in case one or two are incorrect might help .

 

[Russ from MN]

You might get more responses on Tractor talk or the Ford 2N, this is tool talk! But, you are doing pretty well!

 

[jniolon]

As a teen I worked with a neighbor at his Christmas tree farm cutting and loading trees to take to the lots

He had an old MF...it was old when I was a kid in the early 60's. He had a hard start problem and would usually build a small fire under the tractor... in a few minutes it got warm enough to fire right off...Probably not OSHA approved or even safe...but it worked

john

 

[Barnacle]

(quoted from post at 11:30:39 11/25/22) Cold engines require more gas.
I think your carb has issues.
Try a shot of starting fluid. If starting fluid works you have too low of float or a jet in carb is choked.
I have a terramite with the gas tank below the carb.
It won't start either until I installed a fuel line and primer
bulb used on boats.
Drain the carb bowl and see how much gas you get out.
I think you may have the float set too low..

Remove the bowl on the carb. Use a clear container to take the
place of the carb bowl and see how full the container gets.
Adjust float to get the fuel level up higher if needed.

I really appreciate your reply and helpful suggestions. Even though I rebuilt the Carburetor, I think you're right about it being the source of the starting problem. I'm going to check the bowl and the adjust the float, if necessry.

A friend of mine who owns a nursery, gave the tractor to me. It hadn't run in over a year, and had been sitting outside, rusting away. The only other issue it has is a bad knock; only at full throttle. But, I don't need to run it that hard, anyway. Other than that, the engine runs very well.
Thanks again

 

[Barnacle]

Thanks for your reply and good suggestions. I wasn't sure what type of oil to use. I know the Owner's and Shop Manuals call for straight 30W, and a mechanic advised that I should go with 10W-30. So, I put Valvoline High mileage 10W-30 , which is a syn-blend oil. I also put a quart of Lucas oil treatment in-place of one of the quarts of oil. Although I don't plan to run the tractor during the cold Winter and early Spring months, the 15W-40 diesel oil you mentioned seems maybe, too heavy.
Thanks again.

 

[Barnacle]

Thanks very much for your suggestion from the old mechanic.
I'm going to try it out , tomorrow and I'll let you know !

 

[Barnacle]

Will do, and Thanks very much for your reply !

 

[Barnacle]

I know someone who is a diesel mechanic and is also a good overall mechanic. I'll ask him to help me adjust the valves, as that is above my skill and knowledge level.

Thanks very much for the good suggestion !

 

[Barnacle]

Thanks. I did get some pretty good suggestions !

 

[Barnacle]

That's a pretty crazy way to start a cold engine, but I can bet that it worked !

Thanks for the response.

 

[KCTractors]

I would use a 12 volt jumper box right to the starter, just make sure you have the tractor in neutral.

 

[wore out]

''Even though I rebuilt the Carburetor, I think you're right about it being the source of the starting problem. I'm going to check the bowl and the adjust the float, if necessry.''

If starts well, runs well warm and has good power those things are probably O.K. and NOT the cause of your cold starting problem.

As I said before, check the choke, another poster had a good idea with checking the valve clearances (although they'd have to be ''off'' a good bit to affect cold starting, IMHO).

Any intake leaks would affect cold starting, as well.

Also, if the ignition system is at all marginal, when cranking a cold engine the starter draws the battery voltage down more and can make a marginal spark too weak to be as effective as it needs to be. A starter that draws excessive current can be a culprit, in making a weaker spark as well.

Also, ''side-valve'' engines are, by nature ''cold blooded'' and having an ''updraft carburetor'' diesn't help the situation.

 

[Janicholson]

The quart of Lucas will make the oil much thicker. Probably as thick as a 40 WT oil in the coldish temps. 15-40 Stays as thin as 15 wt oil(when cold) and stays as thick as 40 when at operating temps. It does not need additives. Jim

 

[Barnacle]

Thanks once again with some very good comments that I wasn't aware of !

 

[Barnacle]

Once again, a good suggestion about the oil. Actually, I feel better about using heavier oil, like the 15W-40. With the engine being old and pretty worn from 75 years of use, I think a heavier oil would provide better lubrication, especially at start-up. I'll try the 15W-40 at the next oil change. Thanks again !

 

[buickanddeere]

Modes the choke button pull the choke blade all the way closed ?
What is the cranking voltage a the starter and coil .

 

[Bill(Wis)]

Most carburetor problems on these little Ns can be traced to the ignition system. What color is the spark as observed between the spark plug electrodes? It should be the
color of a bolt of lightning with''blue snot authority''. Not yellow. I mean during this cold weather you speak of. Weak spark in cold weather can be from a weak
condenser. Use Blue Streak igntion parts.