A new To30 issue...

[K.Campbell]

I just got a new To30 it s nice.. but I found an issue I don t care for and need some input.. I was checking everything over on the tractor when I got it home and noticed it was very low on tranny fluid.. not even showing on the dipstick, so I promptly went to tractor supply, after reviewing all the records that came with the tractor, and added 2 gallons of 80-90 gear lube, that s what the previous owner was using. It shows on the dipstick but not full yet.. anyhow I decided to use it even though it was low on fluid. I needed to use my box blade on my drive way. Before all that I noticed tractor also had charging issues, I unhooked the voltage regulator only to find my replacement which my father gave me was also defective at the mounting brackets.. they were missing. So I went ahead and replaced the defective regulator and low and behold it showed it was charging... cool right? Well during the driveway work, I decided to shut off the tractor and grab a drink of water, when I came back to start it it turned over very slow and would not start... so after saying a few choice words I jumped it with my 12 volt car and it turned over nice and fast and stated right up.. now granted I ve had this tractor a total of 3 days and have probably started it 30 times, to adjust carb, change points and just messing around... it s always started nicely, Until I changed regulator and added fluid.. now it sits in the shed with the battery charger on it and won t turn over fast enough to start. I checked volts at battery and I have 6.2 to 6.6 ... I ordered a 12 volt conversion kit... but I m still stumped..what would cause this? I m guessing battery.. or possibly starter.. all connections look good... somthing must have happened when I rehooked the voltage regulator... maybe hooked it up wrong? Anyone have a diagram? Thanks.. I know this is a lot to take in..

 

[miner09]

Go to --fergusontractors.org/FENA--then resources-wiring. It has what you need.

 

[Steve@Advance]

You may have a weak connection on one of the battery cables.

When cranking on it, feel for hot connections. A couple of trouble spots are where the ground cable bolts to the sheet metal. Might try running a ground directly to the engine block. Another problem area, the starter contacts. The switch may need to be adjusted or the contacts cleaned. Even though the starter switch can be troublesome, best keep it as that provides neutral start protection.

Six volt systems require very heavy cables, size 0 or bigger. Those are hard to find, usually have to get them made at a truck shop/supply.

As for the transmission/differential case oil, originally it had 90 weight mineral oil. much different than 90 weight gear oil.

The 80/90 gear lube is too heavy. It will probably work in warm weather, but will be very slow working the 3 point lift when cold.

You can still get 90 weight mineral oil, NAPA has it. Or you can substitute 15w 40 engine oil.

 

[ghostdncr]

In a case like yours where "everything was fine until I installed..." it's usually safe to assume right there is where your problem originated. I wouldn't be one bit surprised to buy a brand new voltage regulator and find it to be bad right out of the box. I'd check the connections to make sure they're correct and if so, replace the regulator again.

FWIW, I think Steve's comments are spot on and especially agree as regards keeping the original starter switch setup. Once properly sorted, my engine will fire after what seems like half a revolution. If you'd like to be ran over by a tractor, bypassing the original switch seems like a great place to start. My switch finally failed a couple of weeks ago and I've been jumping the contacts with a screwdriver to start it until the replacement arrives tomorrow. I'm using a long screwdriver so I can hit those contacts from the seat! The original Ferguson switch can be disassembled, cleaned, adjusted and so forth, but mine is one of the modern sealed units so replacement is about my only option.

I ran across a very similar problem on my TO20, in which a "less than ideal" electrical connection was giving me fits. I had replaced several components over the previous month and initially thought one of the new parts might be causing the trouble. While I could have gone through the system using a multimeter to determine where the voltage drop was occurring, I first opted to re-do all my connections. This consisted of polishing all the contact surfaces with fine sandpaper (320 grit, I believe it was) and applying a light film of petroleum grease (not silicone/dielectric grease) to those surfaces before reassembly. It clearly worked, because all my electrical issues vanished after that treatment. My battery is grounded to the engine block with a woven strap-type cable that's about an inch wide and 3/16" thick.

Tractor Supply Co. also sells 90 wt. mineral oil under their Traveller brand. You're looking for API Service GL-1 oil and yes, it's what I'd call radically different from 90 wt gear oil. It is much thinner and a very light amber color. I seem to recall reading somewhere about using 80/90 gear oil in badly worn Ferguson hydraulic systems during hot weather, but I'd think that would be only a stop-gap measure until the proper repair parts came in.

 

[K.Campbell]

thanks guys, you ve given me some stuff to digest... I ll look at voltage regulator when I get home from work, seeing how that s where the issue started to begin with. I could have a bad connection there some place. However I ordered a 12 volt conversion kit and will be promptly installing that.... hopefully that takes care of my issue... as for the 80-90.. I may drain it and replace it with 90 mineral oil...

 

[Steve@Advance]

Be careful with the starter when you convert it to 12v.

Running a 6v starter on 12v will work, but it slams the drive into the flywheel really hard. The trick is to be very deliberate with the starter engagement.

Listen for the starter to completely coast down to a stop before hitting the switch again.

Also be sure to wait a second for the engine to stop. Sometimes it will rebound from a compression stroke and turn backward when the starter is released. You don't want to hit the starter with the engine turning.

Be sure the ignition timing is correct and not too far advanced. Kicking back is hard on the starter.

The starters are known for breaking the nose cone. If that happens, just the nose can be bought separate.

You may want to go through the starter, check the brushes, bushings, and starter drive gear. A worn gear is hard on the flywheel gear.

The bracket that comes with the 12v conversion will probably need some modification. Getting the alternator mounted straight and securely is essential for belt life. You might try switching the pulley from the generator to the alternator. That way the wide belt can still be used and all the pulleys will be the same.

 

[fusion]

I agree with Steve 80/90 is to heavy
Tractor Supply has, Traveller Ford Tractor All Mineral 90 Transmission Fluid
works well summer and winter
you will need to drain your tractor over night to make sure you get all that
80/90 out

 

[fusion]

I have never had any trouble with my TO-30 6V
I had the starter and the generator rebuilt, made sure all the connections were clean and tight and the battery is full charged and I have not had any trouble with it starting turns over good and starts right up. I have been using the non ethanol gas and that made a big difference in the performance .

 

[Ron(Ont)]

(quoted from post at 04:49:05 04/25/19) I agree with Steve 80/90 is to heavy
Tractor Supply has, Traveller Ford Tractor All Mineral 90 Transmission Fluid
works well summer and winter
you will need to drain your tractor over night to make sure you get all that 80/90 out

I do not have a lot of options for non-detergent oils here, so SAE 90 gear oil is all I have ever used. Even at -20C (-4F), I blow snow all winter. I just have to be patient while the oil warms up.

My 2nd tractor came with 10W30 in the rear end but I changed it out for 90 wt, mostly because it leaked to much.