A new word Protrusion

[Pastor John]

It is no secret my mechanical knowledge is somewhat suspect! Putting that aside I enjoy learning new things especially regarding the mechanics of my Letter Series herd.

Two friends of mine Ron and Jason Shank have been overhauling my somewhat tired 1950 DC. New sleeves and assorted parts are bringing the tractor back to life. Which brings me to the word of the day, Protrusion!

Ron determined the block was worn enough to require the sleeves to be raised 2-4 thousands. You either machine the block or shim up the sleeves. I have to admit I had never heard of anything like that on the forum. Machining was not in the picture so I looked for manufactured shims. My only lead was a shim kit that was one time available for a Massey Harris 44. I struck out there so I ordered shim stock from McMaster Carr and a craft circle cutter off of Amazon.

Ron was able to cut the ID with the circle cutter but the OD was another story as the shim stock was so thin it would bunch up when cutting it. Rons wife is an accomplished seamstress and her sharp scissors made quick work of the shims. I owe her big time and possibly some new scissors!

Anyway sleeves 1-3 required one shim ( .002) and sleeve #4 two shims ( .004)

The next step installing the head.

Many thanks to John and Chris Saeli and Don Livingston for their help on this project

 

[Duner Wi]

Very pretty. Protrusion is like oil. Main thing is to have some.
Really what you don't want is recession.

 

[mEl]

Being recessed is one thing but, did anyone measure the sunk counter bores to see if they were straight, or parallel to the deck or worn down so the outer edge of the sleeve is all that is contacting? When I did my 39 I took material off the deck and had the counter bores reset. Shimming them will restore the height but where will the heavy torquing stress be applied. If the sleeve counterbore area contact is not even the sleeve can crack around right at the stress relief cut underneath where the block and sleeve mate.

 

[tomturkey]

So John, what size were the original pistons? What size are the new? Do you think a previous owner had overhauled before? I can see your living by the concept that you can't take it with you. Lol See you in June at the WHO tractor ride....gobble

 

[Pastor John]

Very good point!
Yes Ron checked the counterbore. It was within tolerance.

I chose to not remove the block and have it machined for good or bad. It has small sprockets in the rear end and is one of my two Case Tractor Ride
tractors.

It wont be a work tractor at least in my lifetime!

 

[Pastor John]

There are 4 sleeves and pistons in it and showed signs of a previous overhaul.

I would have liked to have honed out the sleeves and replaced the rings but they were pretty rough and way past cleaning up. The wet sleeve o rings were long gone and tons of rust meant lots of cleanup.

 

[LPakiz]

(quoted from post at 02:10:08 02/27/22) There are 4 sleeves and pistons in it and showed signs of a previous overhaul.

I would have liked to have honed out the sleeves and replaced the rings but they were pretty rough and way past cleaning up. The wet sleeve o rings were long gone and tons of rust meant lots of cleanup.

I think you have a conversion kit from a magneto to points ignition. Pull the distributor out of the block and check both gears--the one at the bottom of the distributor and the horizontal "driving" gear, way down in the gearbox.
I'll try to attach some pics of ours.

Jun

This tractor was my grandfathers and was stationed on our farm when Dad sold the farm in 1980. It quit on the new owner in the field in the early 80s. The owner notified Dad and said it really was too small for anything anymore, they didn't investigate the cause, they weren't going to fix it and he could have it if he wanted it. No one knew why it had quit, until 2020, when I resurrected the tractor to give to MY grandson.
I got new sleeve and piston kits, etc and we got it running for a couple hours. Then it suddenly ran poorer, but a twist of the distributor corrected that. One more correction and we had to move the wires in the cap. Investigating further, this stripped gear was the culprit. It would drive the distributor "for a while" before slipping a tooth.

This post was edited by LPakiz on 02/27/2022 at 04:56 am.

 

[tomturkey]

That Sir is very valuable knowledge to put away in the brain library. Never rule out the gears running the ignition system. I'm
sure I would have been scatchin my noggin over that perdiciment. Thanks for sharing. gobble

 

[Pastor John]

Good to know! THANKS FOR SHARING

 

[Pastor John]

Good to know! THANKS FOR SHARING

 

[LPakiz]

(quoted from post at 22:00:44 02/28/22) Good to know! THANKS FOR SHARING

For around 40 years, every time I walked into Dads shed, I wondered what happened to that old reliable Case SC. The thought was a fuel problem, wiring problem, switch, etc. but we were super busy and just didn't take time to figure it out.
I even took the cap off and rolled it over a few compression strokes. Yep, rotor is turning so the distributor drive train must be good......