a pic for David P

[Tony in Mass.]

I missed my calling. I should have been a detective. I have the wool cap and pipe, but don't know any one called 'DR Watson'.
The pan came off after I removed 2 nuts I didn't see near the drain plug. This artifact was sloshing in the muck. There are a few others like in there aswell. Well, at least we know it's not a Standard....

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Hi Tony,
Thanks for the photo. Have checked by Bepco book but it does not show that number so I guess the petrol pistons are different to the diesel ones.
Just guessing but I wonder if the max engine speed was removed and the tractor allowed/made to rev beyond the design limit until it shook itself to death. As and when you get it going it might be something to check.
Keep the photos coming.
Cheers
DavidP

 

[Tony in Mass.]

'shook itself to death indeed!' When I read the manual, and note the timing marks on the 'balancer'... well, someone didn't have it assembled right, for who knows how many decades. The marks were way off.
I also find a connecting rod bent like a banana, #2. It didn't occure to me at the time, but I did notice an engine with a barely 4 1/2 inch stroke had a piston nearly 9 inches down....
So even tho rust wants to keep the crank from turning, I'm certain this is jabbed against the block, or aleast jamming the crank from either direction.
So for this, or all, I am going to need a hack's idea on how to push the sleeves, with pistons attached (by rust) up and out, preferably with the crank in place. If I have to split this, it will lay all winter like the poor 35 did.
BTW, I can't locate replacement pistons online... a search showed a YT post 2 years ago of someone also not able to locate 212 pistons....

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Two thoughts spring to mind but I'm far from sure that either would work. First if you can push something like a piece of 3/4 or better still 1" bar up between the small end of the conrod and upper skirt of the piston. If you can get it square even if it means welding a foot (large thick washer) on the end, you might be able to get a hydraulic jack under it and 'jack' the piston out. It's unlikely that the liner would come out as well. The other idea was whether you might be able to drill a hole (long drill) in the crown of the piston and either tap something like a 5/8" unc thread in it and use stud bar with a bar across the blockface and nut on top to pull the piston up, similar to my photo.
I doubt whether there would be enough room between the top of the con-rod and piston to fit a nut.....even if you could reach it.
DavidP

 

[Tony in Mass.]

I just came in from looking at the project with a frend. We think it might be less work to split the tractor and remove the crank, which is like torturing myself for a hunch. The journals weren't damaged at all from this rod fiasco, or the water down the stack, even the inserts still have no scoring or discolor.
And the clutch plate I can see thru the inspection hole seems very new. But it might be less traumatic for the back and shoulders than working flat on the ground.
The bottle jack idea was something I thought of aswell, got too dark to early last night... but with my luck, I imagine the entire tractor going straight in air..

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Hi Tony,
Yes, if you can fit a suitable rod it would not hurt if you have to leave it with most of the weight off the front wheels. Left overnight, it might just have popped by the next morning. The crank journals look to be in good condition. Good, if the clutch looks new but unless you have checked to see if it is freeing you can't be sure. Even the gas 212 will be a lump to take out but if you have the lifting tackle to do so it would be time well spent. If you are going to do a good job then a few bucks spent now will probably save more later.
DavidP

 

[WorldWideTractorParts]

I assume that it is the 212 gas, if so, I have a good running one for sale. 800-755-2605, press number 2.