AC D17 hydraulic power for loader

mongo66

Member

My hydraulic power for my D17 loader is very weak and sluggish. Is there a certain size/model hydraulic pump I should use/replace in order to increase my lifting load capacity and speed? Are there other things I can modify in order to increase loader performance?? Also one of my lift arms came loose, are they held in by a bolt or some kind of lock ring?? If anyone knows of a Allis mechanic close to Hibbing MN 55746 I would appreciate being hooked up...
 
Is the loader an original AC designed for the D17 ?

If so, it would be high-pressure, low-volume and your pump may need rebuilding. If it's a different brand with larger cylinders, an external pump either driven by the crank at the front of the engine, or a side-mounted pump may be the route to go.

Here's a break-down of the SerI-III D17 lift arm a'y. You didn't say where it was loose; if it's on the outer end, it's just (2) snap-rings. If the whole shaft/arm moves out, it appears there's a roll pin holding the actuator arm to the splined shaft that may have fallen out. That would require removing the lift-arm housing to get at and for which you'll need a new gasket and may as well get a new PTO seal and o'ring. Hard to visualize that happening, but it might have.


<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v630/Gatz/?action=view&current=DseriesLiftCyl.jpg" target="_blank">
DseriesLiftCyl.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
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.Thanks, the loader is not original AC designed, I will email a picture tonight easier than trying to explain it. As for the lift arms that diagram is great, the lift arm #10 is pulling out from the lift housing and from the pic I can guess the stud bolt#8 , o-ring #6 or bushing # 7 is the problem, when I take this apart and fix is there anything I should be extra careful with, I dont want to screw up something by being careless
 
Is Milaca too far away? Ron at 320-983-3500.He"s been an AC mechanic for many years, good source of new and used parts.
 
Mongo -

I'm 8 miles north of Nashwauk, I have a late Series I D17 with a non Allis loader on it. No power steering. Brush hog, scraper blade, plow, snowblower. I've had it a year or so, learned a few things. Been mostly lucky.
I have a ITT service manual as well as an operators manual.
Let me know if you need help.

I've been wanting to add a hyd pump to the front of the engine to speed up the loader and allow 2 way cylinders.

Cheers,

Creek Jenkins
 
No Milaca is not too far about an hour south, Does your buddy Ron have a email address? so I can email a picture. Im always in the need of a parts dealer at the very least. Thanks JR
 
Creek
I have had my D17 about 4 yrs, I had to have it split 2 yrs ago because of gear grinding, wear and tear but it is all fixed now for what I need, I just need to do some fine tuning on the beast. Like my loader power and lift arms. I would like to be able to use the rear for lifting a rotary tiller at some point. but I dont have all the components. I use the D17 mostly for foodplots on my Farm , drag implements plow and disc. Turns out you are a short ATV ride north of me, as I head to Nashwauk often for a burger during wheeler ride. It would be cool to hook up sometime and see if I can learn more about this AC. later JR
 
JR -

I use mine around the place for snowblowing, brush hogging and deer plots as well. Still looking for a disc, been borrowing the neighbors. My D17 isn't in the greatest shape, but it starts everytime, even at -20. I just ordered up an oil pan gasket set today as it is leaking oil like the Exxon Valdez. I'm putting on a new chinese intake/exhaust as well. Someday I will split it and do an engine o/haul. I also have a G I use to mow. Or I should say my wife uses.
I plan on heading over to the Blackberry Tractor thingy on 8 Aug to see the show.
I'm off 65 north of Yuhala's.
cheers,
Creek
 
here are a couple of pics of my D17, from the rear view pic, what parts am I missing in order to lift and connect a rotary tiller from behind the tractor? coupler, other connections??
a3334.jpg

a3335.jpg
 
I don"t think Ron has one, but I think a daughter nearby does. What"s the story about a Blackberry Tractor show on Aug 8? You mentioned a new manifold- just got one from Ron for $140- he has a pole building full of parts bins, new and used stuff. Just off Hwy 23 near mile marker 242, east of Milaca. On 80th Av, turn at Stockholm Cemetary.
 
Check your front pulley on the crankshaft- might have drilled and tapped holes for the connecting shaft for a front mount pump. Pump mounts in front of the steering box.
 
Not sure what Creek was talking about on that Aug 8 show, nothing on this website relates?? Did you see my photos of my D17 in this discussion forum? I was wondering if you know what pieces I am missing in order for me to lift a rotary tiller from the back of my tractor? I think maybe a coupler? and some other bars? not sure of correct wording for the lifting apparatus..
 
Looks like you have the factory Snap-Coupler and lift arms. 3pt rotary tiller would require a 3 point adapter, two kinds available, one works with the weight transfer system, the other does not.
 
JMS thanks again for all your input, I did a bit of legwork for you.. the Blackberry Show is 8/8/09- 8/9/09 (The North Central MN Farm and Antique Assn 25 annual show) it is 7 miles east of Grand Rapids on State Hwy 2 show contact name Bruce Gould 218-752-6592
 
Assuming that the lift arm housing will need to come off. Get a hoist lined up; overhead, an A-frame or engine hoist/cherry picker will do as well. (these are much too heavy to manhandle)

Drain rear end. Remove PTO shaft.

there are 2 ways of doing this

1) You'll have to take the bolts out of the transfer valve on top and to the left of the rear end, then grab the valve and pull up to get at the hex fitting of the internal hose. It needs to come lose at the transfer valve.
Separate the liftarm housing from the rear end and keep the lift cylinder together (it's only 1-way, and can come apart)

I can't recall how Pin #19 sits in there, but there's a screw that needs to come out to get the Pin out. (see parts diagram)


2) Alternatively, we've taken these apart before by letting the cylinder extend and separate leaving the lower end still inside the tractor. That way, you don't have to mess with the transfer valve. It's takes a bit of finaggling to get it back together this wasy, but does work.

One thing that you'll encounter is that the housing is hard to break loose of the rear end.
Take a large chisel and a 2# hammer and whack a couple of places at the upper and lower portions of the housing where the gasket/split is. Avoid the thin "ears", it may break them.

Again, get a new gasket for the liftarm housing and o'ring & seal for the PTO.
 
I want to replace the front mounted hydraulic pump on my D17, the loader is not an OEM loader and thus it is very heavy. I was told the hydraulic pump that is mounted is not the correct size as it is probably a stump splitter pump. Does anyone have a suggestion for a proper pump manufacturer, size /strength with the capacity to lift and dig with my current loader set up?? With the pump I have there is a lot of whinning and effort to move the pump up and down. A picture of my D17 is on this discussion forum. thanks JR
 
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