Adding Rear Counterweight to NAA

[Ian074]

I recently installed a trip bucket FEL to my NAA. I would now like to add some rear counter weight to the 3 point hitch. Essentially what I will do is construct a small form and fill it with concrete with end fittings to attach to the lift arms.
My question is what weight should I shoot for ?.
Example: a 2 X2 X1 ft chunk of concrete will weigh in at about 450 lbs
I know it depends of front load but what I am looking for is a ballpark for everyday use that will take some stress from the front wheels and steering.

 

[souNdguy]

my 660, naa, and 850 right now have a animal feed tub filled with concrete on the rear. I put in big carriage bolts in the tub sitcking down and bolted a drawbar to it for lift connection, and then stuck some flat stock inthe top for the toplink connection.

this weight can be left at the lifts lowest level and be of fthe ground.. thus no strain on the hyds.

I'd say the tubs weight somewhere between 450 and 550#.. works great.

soundguy

 

[Ian074]

(quoted from post at 07:23:53 06/09/09) my 660, naa, and 850 right now have a animal feed tub filled with concrete on the rear. I put in big carriage bolts in the tub sitcking down and bolted a drawbar to it for lift connection, and then stuck some flat stock inthe top for the toplink connection.

this weight can be left at the lifts lowest level and be of fthe ground.. thus no strain on the hyds.

I'd say the tubs weight somewhere between 450 and 550#.. works great.

soundguy

Hey, that's pretty much what I had in mind. How much clearance (from the ground) do you get with the drawbar all the way down?
I am in the woods a bit as well as on uneven terrain. I figured I would use chain stops to relieves pressure on the hydraulic system.
Yes I know I could go out and measure my drawbar. But it is late and dark here and I am lazy

 

[old]

My self I like to use a back blade and hang suit case weights on the blade. That way you have the weight you need plus you have the blade to use also. I have tried the cement barrel thing before but found the back blade and 6 85lbs suit case weights work far better. I use this on my 841 and it has a big heavy duty loader on it and I use it to move 2000lbs round bales and the barrel did not do the job so I use the blade instead and can do what I need to do. By the way I still have 2 barrels full of cement and they have not been on a tractor in 10 plus years

 

[Dell (WA)]

Ian.......yer lower link arm roundy balls are spec'd to be 8-1/2" above the ground. So unless you are superman, you'd want yer 11-hole bar thru the cement tub to be at least 9" above ground. I'd probably shoot fer 10" above ground. Just incase yer interested, the lower arms will lift about 750lbs and lifts to 34-1/4". Normal 11-hole drawbar height is 18". Using chain links to relieve pressure on yer internal hydraulics is a good idea. .......Dell

 

[souNdguy]

I put my drawbar on bottom so i wouldn't have to chain it.. but as dell points out, this means you then have to set the weight block on something when you aren't using it For me a couple pieces of timber or a cinder block works just fine.

I've never measured the ground clearance under my drawbar.. but for your case. measure yours, as yor tires and such will ultimately effect clearance on your machine.. etc.

soundguy