Adjusting the Valves - PLEASE HELP

RTR

Well-known Member
I've recently installed a new cylinder head and a new head gasket on a 1950 (front distributor) 8n. It wasn't until after I installed the head that I thought to check the valve clearances. Now that the head is on and the tractor is painted, can you help me figure out HOW to identify the Intake and Exhaust valves? Also, what would be the best way to turn the engine over to perform the adjustment procedure? I know I need to start at TDC on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder and turn the engine 1/2 turn for each subsequent cylinder in the order of 1-2-4-3.
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For valve adjustment, I Engauge the PTO, and use a large crescent wrench to rotate. Make sure to verify proper rotational direction. Also, think "Lockout / Tagout" and doubly assure your tractor has energy removed so ZERO chance of an accident.
 
(quoted from post at 14:48:45 10/04/22) I've recently installed a new cylinder head and a new head gasket on a 1950 (front distributor) 8n. It wasn't until after I installed the head that I thought to check the valve clearances. Now that the head is on and the tractor is painted, can you help me figure out HOW to identify the Intake and Exhaust valves? Also, what would be the best way to turn the engine over to perform the adjustment procedure? I know I need to start at TDC on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder and turn the engine 1/2 turn for each subsequent cylinder in the order of 1-2-4-3.
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To turn engine over either use the crank pulley nut or jack up one rear tire put shifter in 4th. Might need a helper to turn tire.
 
(quoted from post at 07:58:52 10/05/22)
Forgot to say remove plugs. Easier to turn over with precision.

Bingo! I'll use the rear tire. I thought of that but didn't know if it would work. I'll have to get a helper so I can use my finger to check compression.
 
(quoted from post at 20:17:37 10/05/22) Do it he easy way. When one valve is all the way open adjust the valve nest to it in that cylinder then you don't need help

Got an new hand crank and removed spark plugs. All valves are moving freely except the #1 piston exhaust valve. It looks like it is stuck open. What is best way to resolve this? Will inneed to pull the head and order another new head gasket to fix it right? Had no idea cause I thought tractor ran great before
 
(quoted from post at 10:52:19 10/13/22)
(quoted from post at 20:17:37 10/05/22) Do it he easy way. When one valve is all the way open adjust the valve nest to it in that cylinder then you don't need help

Got an new hand crank and removed spark plugs. All valves are moving freely except the #1 piston exhaust valve. It looks like it is stuck open. What is best way to resolve this? Will inneed to pull the head and order another new head gasket to fix it right? Had no idea cause I thought tractor ran great before

Try squirting some ATF or asatone or a combination of that through the exhaust port. Give a few hours or a day, then try helping it down through the valve cover opening.
 
(quoted from post at 13:52:19 10/13/22)
(quoted from post at 20:17:37 10/05/22) Do it he easy way. When one valve is all the way open adjust the valve nest to it in that cylinder then you don't need help

Got an new hand crank and removed spark plugs. All valves are moving freely except the #1 piston exhaust valve. It looks like it is stuck open. What is best way to resolve this? Will inneed to pull the head and order another new head gasket to fix it right? Had no idea cause I thought tractor ran great before
ou might get lucky by pouring some lube (some recommend ATF) into spark plug hole, let it sit several hours or overnight, then if not un-stuck, you can use a screwdriver to press on the valve thru the spark plug hole. Don't get too rough or may bend valve. Then on the other hand, if you can't free it like this , bent won't matter as you will have head off next anyway.
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