Air Compressor

[G6 at Snook, TX]

I need to get a new air compressor. It will be a shop type vertical with a 60 gallon tank. It appears TSC has a good sale on one of theirs right now for $500. It is an Ingersoll.

Do you have any suggestions on what compressors to buy and which to avoid? I want an oil compressor because the old oil-less compressor was too loud.

Of course, I forgot to mention that this is OT, but I assume that all will be well.

 

[Swift III]

I have had good luck with the Daytons and the Cambell Hausfields, Heck I have had one "portable" CH since '93 I used to drag it up on roofs its still working fine. When something goes wrong easy to fix as well.

Isn't CH and IR hooked up somehow? Or is that Dibelviss...
(I can't spell, "a mans got to know his limitations"-Dirty Harry)

 

[rigger10]

My dad bought an Campbell Hausfield from TSC back in the late 70"s and is still useing it today. It is 80gl upright twin cyl belt driven 220v 5 hp that now makes alot of noice but keeps pumpin out the air. Good luck..

 

[Dr. Bert]

A word of warning about the Campbell Hausfeld compressors. They feed the air in at the top of the tank and if the check valve gets clogged up with carbon particles, they will rupture the air feed tube with explosive results. It happened to me. Also, they are very noisy. Just took mine out of service and bought one that is much quieter and safer. For what it is worth.

 

[Bob Harvey]

"What to buy" is the MOST volume of compressed air for the least amount of $. Wisely, but foolishly bought a Craftsman 5 hp - 60 gal tank for the right price and it has a good warantee(sp), BUT, it only puts out 12.5 CFM. I have a 'blasting cabinet' that works sorta OK with it with small bits, and an 'outdoors' unit that needs a MINIMUM of 20 CFM. I suggest you get something that puts out 20 CFM Min., might cost a bit more but better than 'needed glasses' hindsight!

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 22:57:31 09/26/09) "What to buy" is the MOST volume of compressed air for the least amount of $. Wisely, but foolishly bought a Craftsman 5 hp - 60 gal tank for the right price and it has a good warantee(sp), BUT, it only puts out 12.5 CFM. I have a 'blasting cabinet' that works sorta OK with it with small bits, and an 'outdoors' unit that needs a MINIMUM of 20 CFM. I suggest you get something that puts out 20 CFM Min., might cost a bit more but better than 'needed glasses' hindsight!

Add cheap tank space.

Go earlier, to turn it on, and let it get pumped up.

You will have to take breaks, and the tank space will even that out.

Find folks willing to give away old well pump tanks that are no longer in use.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

The Campbell Hausfeld tanks for sale at TSC frankly looked cheap for the $399 they wanted. The motor looked less than substantial. The Ingersoll looked fairly substantial, but it was not the twin piston splash that seems to be the old industry standard. That twin piston setup appears to be rather expensive. I will check with Grainger and NAPA to see what they have.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Do any of you know anything about speedaire brand compressors? Grainger sells them.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 09:29:32 09/27/09) Do any of you know anything about speedaire brand compressors? Grainger sells them.

I believe Speedaire is made be Dayton - and Grainger is certainly not the cheapest guy in town!!! There's a raft of good used industrial compressors on eBay all the time for very good prices - far better and less expensive than anything you could buy new. The trick is to find one local so you can pick it up. I found an 80g Quincy two-stage unit with all the bells and whistles that came with a separate fan powered dryer - both for $500. Makes all the air I could ever need short of jack hammering concrete ;-) It had a 3 phase motor which I swapped out for a single phase motor - another $200. The 3P units don't sell well and are often CHEAP!!!

TOH

 

[gahorN]

I bought a 60-gal Campbell Hausfeld 12 years ago and it's been very dependable. The only thing I'd caution about is who/where to buy it and be aware of your actual output needs. (RE: the comments above about capacity while sandblasting, etc.)
This unit puts out all I need for my purposes (about 10 cu ft @90 psi). I bought it at WalMart when they were discontinuing sales of this large compressors, and paid $250. I"ve seen them for sale below $400 very recently at various places. It's a single stage cast iron splash lubricated.

The use of improper oil in the compressor (ANY brand) will cause carbon to foul up the unloading valve such as mentioned above. Use either non-det motor oil, dedicated compressor oil, or dedicated synthetic compressor oil sold by CH.

PS- Whatever brand/model you buy, if you get an upright ...be CERTAIN to tie it to the wall and/or bolt it to the floor. They are all top-heavy and you do NOT want it pulled or knocked over. You'll probably have to lay it on it's side if you take it home in your truck, also. (to keep it from falling). I used cable thru the motor/compressor deck and tied the cable to the wall, ...after I mounted the tank-feet onto a large wooden skid. I tied it to the building air-distribution system using a lever-ball-valve and flexible 3/4" hydraulic hose.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Thanks. I will check the ebay route first, and then go from there. I did notice a CH at Lowe's that would do what I need and it was about $700.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

At the expense of exposing my ignorance, what is the difference between a single phase motor and a two phase motor? Electrically speaking.

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 14:08:23 09/27/09) I bought a 60-gal Campbell Hausfeld 12 years ago and it's been very dependable. The only thing I'd caution about is who/where to buy it and be aware of your actual output needs. (RE: the comments above about capacity while sandblasting, etc.)
This unit puts out all I need for my purposes (about 10 cu ft @90 psi). I bought it at WalMart when they were discontinuing sales of this large compressors, and paid $250. I"ve seen them for sale below $400 very recently at various places. It's a single stage cast iron splash lubricated.

The use of improper oil in the compressor (ANY brand) will cause carbon to foul up the unloading valve such as mentioned above. Use either non-det motor oil, dedicated compressor oil, or dedicated synthetic compressor oil sold by CH.

PS- Whatever brand/model you buy, if you get an upright ...be CERTAIN to tie it to the wall and/or bolt it to the floor. They are all top-heavy and you do NOT want it pulled or knocked over. You'll probably have to lay it on it's side if you take it home in your truck, also. (to keep it from falling). I used cable thru the motor/compressor deck and tied the cable to the wall, ...after I mounted the tank-feet onto a large wooden skid. I tied it to the building air-distribution system using a lever-ball-valve and flexible 3/4" hydraulic hose.

I have the same compressor in my shop, or at least really close, it is a CH, twin cyl. single stage, cast iron.

I am pretty sure it is a 6.5 HP, I got it on sale at Home Depot, something over $300.

I have been well pleased with it.

Well, except for the pressure switch, which fell all to pieces, and then points started welding themselves.

A good quality pressure switch, and good to go.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 18:37:24 09/29/09) At the expense of exposing my ignorance, what is the difference between a single phase motor and a two phase motor? Electrically speaking.

Single phase is the common 2 wire residential service that you almost surely have in your house - two hots that are 180 degrees out of phase and give you 240V phase to phase. Three phase is an industrial service with 3 hots that are 120 degrees out of phase - commonly giving you 240V between any pair of conductors. Not likley you have 3P service available to you. Three phase motors have lower current draws than their single phase equivalents and are easily reversed by simply swapping any two leads.


TOH

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Do you happen to have a picture of an outlet for a three phase set-up? I have a plug that services electric welders, but since I don't weld, I have never used it.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 20:52:07 09/29/09) Do you happen to have a picture of an outlet for a three phase set-up? I have a plug that services electric welders, but since I don't weld, I have never used it.

ook to see how many wires come to tour electric meter. 3wires= single phase, 4wires=3phase. Same logic not necessarily true on large appliance (some dryers) plugs, because they may have 4 prongs even for single phase (2 hot, neutral, safety ground).

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 21:52:07 09/29/09) Do you happen to have a picture of an outlet for a three phase set-up? I have a plug that services electric welders, but since I don't weld, I have never used it.

I can't recall in my 15 year electrical career part of my life time, ever seeing any 3 phase stuff that used a plug on it of any sort.

It was ALWAYS hard wired.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Going by JMORs example it is a single phase operation. It has three wires to the meter.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Now I know for certain I will have to buy a single phase. Which seems to be just as well anyhow.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 21:12:55 09/29/09)

(quoted from post at 21:52:07 09/29/09) Do you happen to have a picture of an outlet for a three phase set-up? I have a plug that services electric welders, but since I don't weld, I have never used it.

I can't recall in my 15 year electrical career part of my life time, ever seeing any 3 phase stuff that used a plug on it of any sort.

It was ALWAYS hard wired.

Corded 3 phase plugs were common in the computer business 10+ years ago. Our computer rooms were laid out with standard NEMA locking receptacles under the floor to facilitate equipment relocations and quite a bit of rack equipment came with corded 3P plugs on the rack power supplies. I use the same plugs in my machine shop for "mobile" machinery like my roll around bandsaw. Here's a picture of my litttle shop built "portable" phase converter. Has a 240V/20A 3 pole 4 wire L15-20R locking receptacle on the front panel for 3P machinery hookup and a L6-20 2 pole 3 wire locking plug on the cord. I have matching L6-20R receptacles scattered around the shop. That way I can move the saw+converter to a convenient location when sawing 20' lengths of steel and conserve the 3P slots in my hardwired panel converter for dedicated circuits for the "big stuff" :idea: Technically speaking I think code requires they all be on their own circuit. Click the thumbnails if you want to get "the big picture.

TOH

 

[gahorN]

(quoted from post at 20:52:07 09/29/09) Do you happen to have a picture of an outlet for a three phase set-up? I have a plug that services electric welders, but since I don't weld, I have never used it.

Unless you have a heavy-duty commercial milking operation, or an electric industial smelting furnace operations for fabrication or somethign similar etc...you do NOT have 3-phase electrical service...believe me.

 

[gahorN]

(quoted from post at 18:54:49 09/29/09)

(quoted from post at 14:08:23 09/27/09) I bought a 60-gal Campbell Hausfeld 12 years ago and it's been very dependable. The only thing I'd caution about is who/where to buy it and be aware of your actual output needs. (RE: the comments above about capacity while sandblasting, etc.)
This unit puts out all I need for my purposes (about 10 cu ft @90 psi). I bought it at WalMart when they were discontinuing sales of this large compressors, and paid $250. I"ve seen them for sale below $400 very recently at various places. It's a single stage cast iron splash lubricated.

The use of improper oil in the compressor (ANY brand) will cause carbon to foul up the unloading valve such as mentioned above. Use either non-det motor oil, dedicated compressor oil, or dedicated synthetic compressor oil sold by CH.

PS- Whatever brand/model you buy, if you get an upright ...be CERTAIN to tie it to the wall and/or bolt it to the floor. They are all top-heavy and you do NOT want it pulled or knocked over. You'll probably have to lay it on it's side if you take it home in your truck, also. (to keep it from falling). I used cable thru the motor/compressor deck and tied the cable to the wall, ...after I mounted the tank-feet onto a large wooden skid. I tied it to the building air-distribution system using a lever-ball-valve and flexible 3/4" hydraulic hose.

I have the same compressor in my shop, or at least really close, it is a CH, twin cyl. single stage, cast iron.

I am pretty sure it is a 6.5 HP, I got it on sale at Home Depot, something over $300.

I have been well pleased with it.

Well, except for the pressure switch, which fell all to pieces, and then points started welding themselves.

A good quality pressure switch, and good to go.

Dunk, I found out that CH grossly misrepresented the HP ratings of their compressors, as did most of their competitors, until federal regulations changed a couple years ago. Mine also claims to be 6 hp, but in fact it's less than 3. I contacted CH about this and they dutifully replied ...over several emails requesting model number/serial number info, etc etc ...in an obvious effort to delay/discourage me from finding out the truth about their marketing claims when they sold the thing to me. Their legal dept finally got involved and quoted some engineering formulas which were too oppressive/sufficiently confusing so as to dissuade me from further discussion with them
Bottom line was that up until a couple years ago they rated their motor HP based upon start-up wattage...not running-wattage of the motor.
In any case, the actual HP is quite a bit lower than that originally claimed.

Edit to add: The decal on my unit claims 6 hp on the unit assembly. The actual elect. motor datatag says :
HP- Spl
Volts - 240
Amps - 15

One hp equals 746 watts. So the math 240 X 15 = 3600 divided by 746 = 4.8 hp.
But CH actually owned up to the statement that in reality it is only a 3 hp motor, based on continuous power.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 12:42:22 09/30/09)

(quoted from post at 18:54:49 09/29/09)

(quoted from post at 14:08:23 09/27/09) I bought a 60-gal Campbell Hausfeld 12 years ago and it's been very dependable. The only thing I'd caution about is who/where to buy it and be aware of your actual output needs. (RE: the comments above about capacity while sandblasting, etc.)
This unit puts out all I need for my purposes (about 10 cu ft @90 psi). I bought it at WalMart when they were discontinuing sales of this large compressors, and paid $250. I"ve seen them for sale below $400 very recently at various places. It's a single stage cast iron splash lubricated.

The use of improper oil in the compressor (ANY brand) will cause carbon to foul up the unloading valve such as mentioned above. Use either non-det motor oil, dedicated compressor oil, or dedicated synthetic compressor oil sold by CH.

PS- Whatever brand/model you buy, if you get an upright ...be CERTAIN to tie it to the wall and/or bolt it to the floor. They are all top-heavy and you do NOT want it pulled or knocked over. You'll probably have to lay it on it's side if you take it home in your truck, also. (to keep it from falling). I used cable thru the motor/compressor deck and tied the cable to the wall, ...after I mounted the tank-feet onto a large wooden skid. I tied it to the building air-distribution system using a lever-ball-valve and flexible 3/4" hydraulic hose.

I have the same compressor in my shop, or at least really close, it is a CH, twin cyl. single stage, cast iron.

I am pretty sure it is a 6.5 HP, I got it on sale at Home Depot, something over $300.

I have been well pleased with it.

Well, except for the pressure switch, which fell all to pieces, and then points started welding themselves.

A good quality pressure switch, and good to go.

Dunk, I found out that CH grossly misrepresented the HP ratings of their compressors, as did most of their competitors, until federal regulations changed a couple years ago. Mine also claims to be 6 hp, but in fact it's less than 3. I contacted CH about this and they dutifully replied ...over several emails requesting model number/serial number info, etc etc ...in an obvious effort to delay/discourage me from finding out the truth about their marketing claims when they sold the thing to me. Their legal dept finally got involved and quoted some engineering formulas which were too oppressive/sufficiently confusing so as to dissuade me from further discussion with them
Bottom line was that up until a couple years ago they rated their motor HP based upon start-up wattage...not running-wattage of the motor.
In any case, the actual HP is quite a bit lower than that originally claimed.

Edit to add: The decal on my unit claims 6 hp on the unit assembly. The actual elect. motor datatag says :
HP- Spl
Volts - 240
Amps - 15

One hp equals 746 watts. So the math 240 X 15 = 3600 divided by 746 = 4.8 hp.
But CH actually owned up to the statement that in reality it is only a 3 hp motor, based on continuous power.

It is actually even worse than that. Watts = V x A x PF. Power Factor for single phase motors of these sizes typically run about 0.85 to 0.9, so you can adjust the 4.8 HP downward to about 4.0 to 4.3HP.

P.S. Never say never on three phase residential power, as my daughter lived in Preston Hollow area of North Dallas up until a year ago and there are many single family homes there that have three phase power. Large homes with large air conditioning systems. (A few blocks from Ross Perot). A Dallas Power & Light engineer told me that DP&L would love to get rid of that in the area, but far too much vested to be able to back out now.

 

[Doug-Ohio]

JMOR, It's even worse than that. Motor watts = V x A x P.F. x efficiency. This type of motor would typicaly have an efficiency of 65-70%. So the actual horsepower is around 3.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 12:35:01 09/30/09)

(quoted from post at 20:52:07 09/29/09) Do you happen to have a picture of an outlet for a three phase set-up? I have a plug that services electric welders, but since I don't weld, I have never used it.

Unless you have a heavy-duty commercial milking operation, or an electric industial smelting furnace operations for fabrication or somethign similar etc...you do NOT have 3-phase electrical service...believe me.

LOTS of medium size farms in my neighborhood have 3 phase service. For any electric motor application over 5HP three phase is almost always the solution. Machine tools, commercial wood working equipment, industrial air compressors etc. are commonly 3P. The local POCO had absolutely no problem with upgrading my 1P residential service to 3P whan I inquired. I on the other hand had a problem with the multi-thousand dollar up front cost and the "commercial" vs. "residential" monthly KWH rate :shock:

Exaggerated motor HP ratings for consumer grade machinery is common - note your compressor rating issue. Unfortunately air compressors are not good candidates for use with rotary phase converters. So I reluctantly replaced the built like a tank, 200#, 5HP Lincoln three phase motor on my eBay compressor with a Baldor industrial 5HP, 1800 RPM single phase motor. Weighs about half of the Lincoln but likely makes the "6HP" unit on that CH box store compressor look like a peanut. My "whole shop" rotary phase converter panel feeds everything else including my largest mill which has a combined rating of 12+ HP with all three drive motors running.

So I'll repeat my suggestion to G6 - find yourself a good used ~5HP, 3P, two stage, industrial compressor and swap the motor out with a good industrial grade single phase motor. If you can find one locally you will get more air for fewer $$$ and it will likley outlive you and your children.

TOH

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Hokie,

How much of a longevity/performance difference does one have from a single stage to a two stage pump? I am willing to spend more, but I wonder if it is worth it. As for the ebay/craig's list plan, I have searched around here and have come up empty--so far.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:40:39 09/30/09)
JMOR, It's even worse than that. Motor watts = V x A x P.F. x efficiency. This type of motor would typicaly have an efficiency of 65-70%. So the actual horsepower is around 3.

bsolutely!

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 14:37:56 09/30/09) Hokie,

How much of a longevity/performance difference does one have from a single stage to a two stage pump? I am willing to spend more, but I wonder if it is worth it. As for the ebay/craig's list plan, I have searched around here and have come up empty--so far.

Two stage pumps give you more air (CFM) at higher working pressures and lower RPMS. Here's a nice one in IL - not close to you but indicative of what you can find if you are patient. Reserve not met but the bidders appear to be low ballers.

eBAy Auction


TOH

 

[gahorN]

Isn't this a little like buying a steamship and replacing the recip-steam engine with a diesel?....when all you need is a bass-boat?

Snooky....unless you are planning to do sand-blasting....I mean a LOT of sand blasting.... You are unlikely to need anything more than commonly available compressors you can buy over there in Bryan or Navasota.

Even if you are planning on doing lots of sandblasting, you are living smack-dab in the middle of oil field equipment operators who have dedicated blasting-compressors for sale on the used market that are designed for sandblasing pipe. I know a couple brothers over in Giddings that's all they do and they use a v-8-powered compressor on a trailer for their pipe-coatings operations. Their units put out more air than a jet engine and they never stop except for lunch at noon and beer at 5.

With the economy like it is you should be able to find such equipment on the used market pretty reasonable in your area.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 17:04:47 09/30/09) Isn't this a little like buying a steamship and replacing the recip-steam engine with a diesel?....when all you need is a bass-boat?

Snooky....unless you are planning to do sand-blasting....I mean a LOT of sand blasting.... You are unlikely to need anything more than commonly available compressors you can buy over there in Bryan or Navasota.

Even if you are planning on doing lots of sandblasting, you are living smack-dab in the middle of oil field equipment operators who have dedicated blasting-compressors for sale on the used market that are designed for sandblasing pipe. I know a couple brothers over in Giddings that's all they do and they use a v-8-powered compressor on a trailer for their pipe-coatings operations. Their units put out more air than a jet engine and they never stop except for lunch at noon and beer at 5.

With the economy like it is you should be able to find such equipment on the used market pretty reasonable in your area.

No - I think it's like buying a 3P Unisaw for $500 from a high school shop that's closing and putting a $200 1P motor in it = $700 for a $2000 saw. The saw may suck a bit more juice and the MTBF on the motor may be lower but it will still cut with the power, precision and accuracy of a $2000 saw. In my case I plug my 1960's vintage 3P Unisaw into my $150 homemade phase converter (see above) and grin like a possum when I hit the START button and hear that quiet silky smooth spin up 8)

As for blasting - keep in mind that a modest #2 (1/8") blast nozzle consumes 20 SCFM @ 80 PSI and a #3 (3/16") eats 45 SCFM @ 80 PSI. So any blasting with a 10 SCFM @ 90 PSI compressor is going to be done with a 3/32" nozzle @60 PSI - painfully slow for anything more substantial than a dirty carb body.

TOH

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 22:12:55 09/29/09)

(quoted from post at 21:52:07 09/29/09) Do you happen to have a picture of an outlet for a three phase set-up? I have a plug that services electric welders, but since I don't weld, I have never used it.

I can't recall in my 15 year electrical career part of my life time, ever seeing any 3 phase stuff that used a plug on it of any sort.

It was ALWAYS hard wired.

There was this one place, that had a bunch of these, not really large machines, on rollers (steel wheels).

I did have to wire in conduit ever so far down the wall, and put boxes, and then come out of the boxes with SJO cord, and put female twist locks on the end of it.

And then put an SJO pigtail on all of the machines, and a male twist lock.

I wish I could remember what they did there.

That was a long time ago.

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 13:42:22 09/30/09)

(quoted from post at 18:54:49 09/29/09)

(quoted from post at 14:08:23 09/27/09) I bought a 60-gal Campbell Hausfeld 12 years ago and it's been very dependable. The only thing I'd caution about is who/where to buy it and be aware of your actual output needs. (RE: the comments above about capacity while sandblasting, etc.)
This unit puts out all I need for my purposes (about 10 cu ft @90 psi). I bought it at WalMart when they were discontinuing sales of this large compressors, and paid $250. I"ve seen them for sale below $400 very recently at various places. It's a single stage cast iron splash lubricated.

The use of improper oil in the compressor (ANY brand) will cause carbon to foul up the unloading valve such as mentioned above. Use either non-det motor oil, dedicated compressor oil, or dedicated synthetic compressor oil sold by CH.

PS- Whatever brand/model you buy, if you get an upright ...be CERTAIN to tie it to the wall and/or bolt it to the floor. They are all top-heavy and you do NOT want it pulled or knocked over. You'll probably have to lay it on it's side if you take it home in your truck, also. (to keep it from falling). I used cable thru the motor/compressor deck and tied the cable to the wall, ...after I mounted the tank-feet onto a large wooden skid. I tied it to the building air-distribution system using a lever-ball-valve and flexible 3/4" hydraulic hose.

I have the same compressor in my shop, or at least really close, it is a CH, twin cyl. single stage, cast iron.

I am pretty sure it is a 6.5 HP, I got it on sale at Home Depot, something over $300.

I have been well pleased with it.

Well, except for the pressure switch, which fell all to pieces, and then points started welding themselves.

A good quality pressure switch, and good to go.

Dunk, I found out that CH grossly misrepresented the HP ratings of their compressors, as did most of their competitors, until federal regulations changed a couple years ago. Mine also claims to be 6 hp, but in fact it's less than 3. I contacted CH about this and they dutifully replied ...over several emails requesting model number/serial number info, etc etc ...in an obvious effort to delay/discourage me from finding out the truth about their marketing claims when they sold the thing to me. Their legal dept finally got involved and quoted some engineering formulas which were too oppressive/sufficiently confusing so as to dissuade me from further discussion with them
Bottom line was that up until a couple years ago they rated their motor HP based upon start-up wattage...not running-wattage of the motor.
In any case, the actual HP is quite a bit lower than that originally claimed.

Edit to add: The decal on my unit claims 6 hp on the unit assembly. The actual elect. motor datatag says :
HP- Spl
Volts - 240
Amps - 15

One hp equals 746 watts. So the math 240 X 15 = 3600 divided by 746 = 4.8 hp.
But CH actually owned up to the statement that in reality it is only a 3 hp motor, based on continuous power.

I think you are probably right about that.

I used a Sears portable for well over 20 years to power my shop air, it was about a 1.5 horse, and a 20 gal tank, to which I had added a 45 gal well tank.

Same cast iron compressor, with little change over the years.

This one has a 3 times larger tank than the portable, and the pully on the motor is 2 or three times larger, so it runs the compressor faster, and it seems to put out at least twice the air.

I made it on the first one, till the bearings in the motor were coming apart, and the seals in the compressor were leaking.

I still have it in the corner.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 20:50:58 09/30/09)

(quoted from post at 22:12:55 09/29/09)

(quoted from post at 21:52:07 09/29/09) Do you happen to have a picture of an outlet for a three phase set-up? I have a plug that services electric welders, but since I don't weld, I have never used it.

I can't recall in my 15 year electrical career part of my life time, ever seeing any 3 phase stuff that used a plug on it of any sort.

It was ALWAYS hard wired.

There was this one place, that had a bunch of these, not really large machines, on rollers (steel wheels).

I did have to wire in conduit ever so far down the wall, and put boxes, and then come out of the boxes with SJO cord, and put female twist locks on the end of it.

And then put an SJO pigtail on all of the machines, and a male twist lock.

I wish I could remember what they did there.

That was a long time ago.

Micky D's used to have SJ pigtails with twist lock 3P plugs on them dropped from the ceilings above their cooking appliances. Probably a common hookup in most fast food kitchens.

TOH

 

[Loren(ABCAN)]

In the plastics molding shop I used to manage they used 3ph for most of the equipment and it was almost all done with twistlock cords so the equipment could be moved around. Industrial desiccant dryers, heater control units, chillers, and water heaters. There was single phase stuff as well for the smaller things like vacuum loaders and bandsaws etc.

If you want a compressor that will really blow your hair back so to speak it is a Kaiser screw compressor. About all you can hear from this unit is the air sucking into it and it'll run just about anything you hook up to it. The only problem with it is the price - I think last time I was looking for a compressor for my shop it was about $5000 for the small unit. Because the unit is a screw type there is virtually no noise and it is very efficient.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 09:08:46 10/01/09) In the plastics molding shop I used to manage they used 3ph for most of the equipment and it was almost all done with twistlock cords so the equipment could be moved around. Industrial desiccant dryers, heater control units, chillers, and water heaters. There was single phase stuff as well for the smaller things like vacuum loaders and bandsaws etc.

If you want a compressor that will really blow your hair back so to speak it is a Kaiser screw compressor. About all you can hear from this unit is the air sucking into it and it'll run just about anything you hook up to it. The only problem with it is the price - I think last time I was looking for a compressor for my shop it was about $5000 for the small unit. Because the unit is a screw type there is virtually no noise and it is very efficient.

Here ya go - "like new" Kaeser SX6 Rotary - 5HP, 240V/3P, 21 SCFM @ 110 PSI. Knock the socks off any CH in the house - starting bid is $1995. This one looks to have a c-face motor and would be a bit trickier to convert to 1P

Kaeser SX6 Compressor

TOH