Allis Chalmers 5050 injection pump help please

Rob VA

Member
Long story short tractor been sitting for a year or so previous owner guessing left the killed knob pulled out ..I replaced all filters bleed the lines like the manual says. I have plenty of fuel coming out of the top bleed screw on the injection pump. But none at the injectors still took of top cover of the pump found that the metering valve was stuck in the offf position .. freed it up working properly now. But still no fuel at injectors .. I’m guessing something is still stuck internally. Any tricks to free this sucker up ..before I take it off ?? Also if I I have to take it off do I have to mark anything for timing ..it’s a pump with a key on the shaft Can I just take it out like it is and don’t move a thing .. or hanks guys for any input this is my first rodeo with injection pumps ..
 
I think that tractor has the CAV pump. The problem is the same old fuel that caused the metering valve to stick has probably caused sticking deeper in the pump. I’m not too familiar with CAV pumps, but they are very similar to Roosa Master pumps. I’ve never been into a Roosa Master when the metering valve was stuck that the fuel plungers weren’t also stuck.

Probably going to at least require a complete injector pump teardown and cleaning. I’ve heard tell of people shooting compressed air into the pump inlet to get the fuel plungers free, but I’ve never actually tried that myself.
 
Here is what is in the Service Manual for the 5050 has to say about Removing and installing Pump
If you want the service manual I have it listed here on YT marketplace
 

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Long story short tractor been sitting for a year or so previous owner guessing left the killed knob pulled out ..I replaced all filters bleed the lines like the manual says. I have plenty of fuel coming out of the top bleed screw on the injection pump. But none at the injectors still took of top cover of the pump found that the metering valve was stuck in the offf position .. freed it up working properly now. But still no fuel at injectors .. I’m guessing something is still stuck internally. Any tricks to free this sucker up ..before I take it off ?? Also if I I have to take it off do I have to mark anything for timing ..it’s a pump with a key on the shaft Can I just take it out like it is and don’t move a thing .. or hanks guys for any input this is my first rodeo with injection pumps ..
Try this...
 
thanks im going to try excactly that IH member. .and ill let you know what happens... before i take the whole pump off. he never said what penetrating oil he used . wonder whats a safe kind to use
 
I'll tell you one thing, those are about the hardest diesel to bleed of any one ever created on this earth. When you get fuel going, you'd better hook on and tow it.
 
Yes they are when i changed the secondary filter i noticed the upper rubber seal was twisted from who ever did it last and its in a right difficult spot to change . i agree to many spots for air or fuel to leak.
 
Well I tried that soaked sprayed. Pumped and blew air in the ports …still not pumping. I just left the pump full of fresh fuel now ..try again in a few days. If nothing I’ll just have to take it off …
 
Ok just got done trying to pull start it …pulled it about a mile and a half maybe more. Didn’t hit one time ..guess now off with pump. ..the book says I can take the pump off as long as I don’t turn the engine I can just put it back with it being a keyed shaft and everything is good …did I read that right ???? Is that correct?? Just double checking
 
No advice on how to take it off, but ya, if you towed it that far, must be something wrong. I've towed mine a long ways, but not that far.
 
That's probably correct. I don't remember ever doing one of those. Some engines the pumps drive gear is trapped inside the timing cover and cannot possibly become disconnected from the gear that drives it. So, if the pumps shaft is keyed into that gear and that gear cannot jump teeth you are correct. Make sure you mark exactly where the pump body is positioned in the slotted mounting holes if so equipped.
 
I'm sorry. I used to have a 5040/5050 Service Manual, but upon just now going to my library, it isn't there anymore.
 
After removing that special nut, I'm sure it will require a homemade puller to pop the gear loose from the injection pumps drive shaft as it will surely be a tapered shaft. If it is a key and you mark the teeth on the gears to make it like it was, I don't know how you can go wrong.
 
Ok just got it out yes had to make a puller and it pop loose after a few turns. I have the teeth marked also. Wasn’t to bad ..now to find a shop to rebuild and check ..thanks for your help I’ll keep posting thru this process
 
hey dr Allis I noticed before I pulled it to try to start it ….the starter had a hard time turning the engine over .. now when I pulled it for about a mile or so. In high 3 ..the motor turn much easier with the starter. Do you think the motor is still ok. Is that normal. I just worry a lot I guess
 
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