allis chalmers wd45

[flooder1997]

i have a allis wd45 it has sat for 20 plus years i sent the clutch and pressure plate away to get an overhaul. anyways i get it back and in the tractor and i got nothing i have done all the adjustments the hand clutch works as it should i would love not to pull motor back out any help would be greatly appreciated is there a way they took to muchof the flywheel or didnt make the clutch pads thick enough or am i missing something i plan on pulling with it

 

[Aaron SEIA]

What do you mean with "got nothing"? Won't release, grinds going into gear? Fingers adjusted to book spec? It's possible you put the clutch plate in backwards. Might be able see something from the bottom.
AaronSEIA

 

[flooder1997]

What do you mean with "got nothing"? Won't release, grinds going into gear? Fingers adjusted to book spec? It's possible you put the clutch plate in backwards. Might be able see something from the bottom.
AaronSEIA

i put the clutch plate in correctly 100 percent the fingers are perfect it shifts in to gear perfect with the wet clutch

 

[4wdtom]

i put the clutch plate in correctly 100 percent the fingers are perfect it shifts in to gear perfect with the wet clutch

So you mean the clutch will not engage and move the tractor? If so you need to see that the throw out bearing is moving back when the pedal is released so the clutch can engage. Do you have an inch or so of "free play" in the clutch pedal? There is an inspection plate in the bottom of the bellhousing. You can observe what is happening there. With the pedal released the throw out bearing needs to move back and not be touching the release fingers in the clutch.

 

[flooder1997]

So you mean the clutch will not engage and move the tractor? If so you need to see that the throw out bearing is moving back when the pedal is released so the clutch can engage. Do you have an inch or so of "free play" in the clutch pedal? There is an inspection plate in the bottom of the bellhousing. You can observe what is happening there. With the pedal released the throw out bearing needs to move back and not be touching the release fingers in the clutch.

correct i know that it is moving back and forth the way it should be i cant seem to figure out as to why it wont move i have never had this when switching doing a clutch job

 

[Jim.ME]

correct i know that it is moving back and forth the way it should be i cant seem to figure out as to why it wont move i have never had this when switching doing a clutch job

Did it have wedges or capscrews holding the pressure plate in the disengaged position for easier installation? If so, did they get removed? Had to ask, as I have seen it happen that someone (not me) didn't remove them.

 

[flooder1997]

Did it have wedges or capscrews holding the pressure plate in the disengaged position for easier installation? If so, did they get removed? Had to ask, as I have seen it happen that someone (not me) didn't remove them.

the only screws or cap screws that i had seen where the one holding the pressure plate on the outside that bolt to flywheel am i missing something and would that cause it to not move ? everything seems to be fine it is driving me nuts!

 

[used red MN]

Hello flooder, welcome to YT! I would suggest you repost this on the YT Allis Chalmers forum under the Manufacturers section. Just click out of this thread by clicking the “Tractor and Farm Talk” wording at the upper left of your original post on top. Scroll down the list a bit and you will see it. Dr. Allis is your man, he never posts over here in the general topic forum. It sounds like you have done some clutches but what Jim is saying above is sometimes rebuilt pressure plates are locked in a part released state. Sometimes it is hard plastic blocks under the clutch fingers. One of those could have fell out and dropped down in the wrong place and is now holding the clutch released. That is a fair long shot but possible. I am not familiar with those Allis set ups with the “power director” so I am not going any farther than this.

 

[Aaron SEIA]

the only screws or cap screws that i had seen where the one holding the pressure plate on the outside that bolt to flywheel am i missing something and would that cause it to not move ? everything seems to be fine it is driving me nuts!

Have someone work the pedal while you look from below to see if the forks are clearanced right and being engaged by the throwout bearing. I want to say there should be 1/4" gap with the pedal released.
AaronSEIA

 

[Janicholson]

the only screws or cap screws that i had seen where the one holding the pressure plate on the outside that bolt to flywheel am i missing something and would that cause it to not move ? everything seems to be fine it is driving me nuts!

If, when you tightened the PP to the Flywheel the bolts went in to full depth without pressure for the last .2 inches or so, the clutch may have come "precompressed" meaning there are 3 screws that are similar to the 6 mounting screws that are in the rear most ridge of the PP. these do make it easy to mount and align with an alignment tool. but must be removed to allow the plate to pinch the friction disc. Jim

 

[560Dennis]

This AC WD off set depth must be maintained . The 1.188 is for Farmall C as example. Don’t know what it supposed to be for your tractor.
photo of a AC WD flywheel

 

[Fritz Maurer]

You sent the stuff out to get rebuilt. Did the rebuilder put the right spline in the disc?
Whatever the case, I think the motor needs to come back out.

 

[4wdtom]

You sent the stuff out to get rebuilt. Did the rebuilder put the right spline in the disc?
Whatever the case, I think the motor needs to come back out.

I would certainly want to take the inspection cover off the bottom of the bell housing and try and see what is the problem before pulling the engine.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I would certainly want to take the inspection cover off the bottom of the bell housing and try and see what is the problem before pulling the engine.

He said everything is moving … what more can be externally? Besides, only takes 20 minutes to get the engine out of a WD45

 

[flooder1997]

If, when you tightened the PP to the Flywheel the bolts went in to full depth without pressure for the last .2 inches or so, the clutch may have come "precompressed" meaning there are 3 screws that are similar to the 6 mounting screws that are in the rear most ridge of the PP. these do make it easy to mount and align with an alignment tool. but must be removed to allow the plate to pinch the friction disc. Jim

i think i follow you how would i go about doing it right so it doesnt happen again

 

[flooder1997]

He said everything is moving … what more can be externally? Besides, only takes 20 minutes to get the engine out of a W

 

[flooder1997]

well this aint a stock wd 45 i got a 5.9 cummins in front of it building it as advertising for my business no pulling or anyting but i am using the allis flywheel and pressure plate everythig is lining up it wont be no 20 min on pulling it but it looks like there is no choice i just dont want to do it again i have never ran into the holes like @Janicholson said i just want to clarify how to do that thanks for any help!!!

 

[used red MN]

well this aint a stock wd 45 i got a 5.9 cummins in front of it building it as advertising for my business no pulling or anyting but i am using the allis flywheel and pressure plate everythig is lining up it wont be no 20 min on pulling it but it looks like there is no choice i just dont want to do it again i have never ran into the holes like @Janicholson said i just want to clarify how to do that thanks for any help!!!

Aha, now you went and did something that really “burns up” one of the posters on here, that is “not divulging all the pertinent information”! What was your process of measuring the front to rear placement of the trans input shaft in relation to the clutch plate splined hub? Do you even know within some reasonable doubt that the trans shaft splines are even engaged into the clutch plate splines when the engine is mounted? Depending on the “original” depth of engagement of the trans shaft pilot(end of shaft for pilot bearing) in regard to the pilot bearings front to rear centerline your dimension of the front to rear placement of the input shaft “loosely” has to be within a 1/4” of where it was when it was installed on the original flywheel of the stock engine. This is not easy to explain without a drawing. In other words some type of measuring had to be done to assure your new pilot bearing and the splines of the clutch plate are locating properly to the trans input shaft in your redesigned assembly. If you modified the trans input shaft then that adds a whole different set of problems.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

So…did this tractor / engine combination function in the past or is this the first time assembly? I would be interested in seeing the starter secured with a set screw that can crank that 5.9

 

[used red MN]

So…did this tractor / engine combination function in the past or is this the first time assembly? I would be interested in seeing the starter secured with a set screw that can crank that 5.9

Good point Fritz, I just looked and he has not been on the forum since Monday. He has a couple other posts going about an IH 756, one on wiring and the other on fuel supply. Wonder how old or established his “business” is? Maybe bit off more than he can chew.