allis chalmers wd45

Good point Fritz, I just looked and he has not been on the forum since Monday. He has a couple other posts going about an IH 756, one on wiring and the other on fuel supply. Wonder how old or established his “business” is? Maybe bit off more than he can chew.
im a millwight by trade i have built lots of tractors in cockshutts and olivers with 453 detroit in cockshutt 40 and 354 perkins in 88 i know what i am doing and i was trying to make the wiring on the ih as original as possiable i have been doong this for 8 years thankyou
 
im a millwight by trade i have built lots of tractors in cockshutts and olivers with 453 detroit in cockshutt 40 and 354 perkins in 88 i know what i am doing and i was trying to make the wiring on the ih as original as possiable i have been doong this for 8 years thankyou
Okay, I apologize if I was a bit pointed! That is where communication like this can go off the rails. I have no idea how old you are. Suddenly you pop up on here with several projects that are giving you a certain amount of trouble. I hope you can see how I might draw this conclusion. You must admit not including the fact that this is in a far from stock application that many more factors are now in play. I believe your Cockshutts and Olivers use a chain coupler so your clutch system in those can be matched to the engine and all that you have to do is make your drive connection to that. I admit I don’t know a lot about an Allis but I am pretty sure it is a bit more involved. Like I said front to rear placement and center line placement are critical in these types of swaps. Maybe a few pictures of the setup, we might be able to see something that may be the cause. Also the answer if this is the first go-round or has it already been together and working?
 
Are the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel possibly bottoming out? If the flywheel was not drilled out deep enough, then has material machined off, might be something to check.
 
Are the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel possibly bottoming out? If the flywheel was not drilled out deep enough, then has material machined off, might be something to check.
Okay, I apologize if I was a bit pointed! That is where communication like this can go off the rails. I have no idea how old you are. Suddenly you pop up on here with several projects that are giving you a certain amount of trouble. I hope you can see how I might draw this conclusion. You must admit not including the fact that this is in a far from stock application that many more factors are now in play. I believe your Cockshutts and Olivers use a chain coupler so your clutch system in those can be matched to the engine and all that you have to do is make your drive connection to that. I admit I don’t know a lot about an Allis but I am pretty sure it is a bit more involved. Like I said front to rear placement and center line placement are critical in these types of swaps. Maybe a few pictures of the setup, we might be able to see something that may be the cause. Also the answer if this is the first go-round or has it already been together and working?
i am 27 and we farm fulltime and i started my millwright coarse at 18 now 27 iwent out on my own 4 years ago have done multiple swaps yes using the chain driven system i do restorations in the winter time regarding the 756 and also have a minnie moline z as well i will get a few pics and show you i am not trying to get under anyones skin i didnt know about this site as i am not very techy! old tractors have been a passion of mine i had an auction last december with 40 tractors i sold as i didnt have time for all them due to grownig farm and bussiness
 
Are the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel possibly bottoming out? If the flywheel was not drilled out deep enough, then has material machined off, might be something to check.
never though of that would be a good place to start i appreciate that!
 
Sounds good, add photos of proof if you feel the need. Just some photos of the WD in the clutch area is what I (we) would really like to see and help you with. Was the adapter built entirely by you? Did you have some kind of a mock up to check out all your dimensions. Very likely there is nothing on the bell housing bolt up area that can be set up for a center register, so as you know that becomes quite a trick. It sounds like you may have got that right because IF the input shaft and clutch plate are engaging and it was off center it would vibrate and make noise. It would probably lock together and not release. This would seem to be the opposite of the problem you are having. Is there anyway for you see the clutch plate and shaft to see how they are positioned in relation to each other?
 
Sounds good, add photos of proof if you feel the need. Just some photos of the WD in the clutch area is what I (we) would really like to see and help you with. Was the adapter built entirely by you? Did you have some kind of a mock up to check out all your dimensions. Very likely there is nothing on the bell housing bolt up area that can be set up for a center register, so as you know that becomes quite a trick. It sounds like you may have got that right because IF the input shaft and clutch plate are engaging and it was off center it would vibrate and make noise. It would probably lock together and not release. This would seem to be the opposite of the problem you are having. Is there anyway for you see the clutch plate and shaft to see how they are positioned in relation to each other?
yes i made the plate I've done enough now to now that i have the clutch centered the splines are working the measurements all line up bang on just the clutch not releasing
 
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