Allis D-14 distributor

[countryman]

I'm working on the Grand Son's D-14 gas distributor, the tractor been starting hard the points needed renewed! So, I pulled the whole unit setting the rotor pointing straight at the motor. I take the whole thing apart scrub & lube advance weights looked good I paint the outer body black changed out points & condenser the little lube wiper was shot! could not find a new one, So I'm just using grease on lobes. I do all my I-H distributors the same way, this Allis has a points gap setting screw that's nice.

Your probity wondering what am doing here? Well yes, I have a question where is number one on the cap?

 

[Jim.ME]

I'm working on the Grand Son's D-14 gas distributor, the tractor been starting hard the points needed renewed! So, I pulled the whole unit setting the rotor pointing straight at the motor. I take the whole thing apart scrub & lube advance weights looked good I paint the outer body black changed out points & condenser the little lube wiper was shot! could not find a new one, So I'm just using grease on lobes. I do all my I-H distributors the same way, this Allis has a points gap setting screw that's nice.

Your probity wondering what am doing here? Well yes, I have a question where is number one on the cap?

Setting the rotor pointing straight at the block is meaningless without other things related to its placement being in place. If you haven't turned the engine over since the distributor was removed, wI hy would you not reinstall it pointing the same way as you removed it?

#1 can be anywhere around the cap, it depends on you having #1-cylinder turned to TDC on compression, timing mark lined up, and where you have the rotor pointing when you install the distributor. The distributor installation controls where #1 is in the cap.

I believe the distributors were originally installed such that #1 on the distributor cap was about 2 o'clock (such that it was more or less lined towards #1 cylinder/sparkplug). The rotor has to be pointing at that 2 o'clock area for the #1 post in the cap to receive spark at the proper time.

You now need to turn the engine (in the correct rotation) to get #1 to TDC compression stroke, properly install and static time the distributor, then finish timing with a timing light.

 

[countryman]

I'm still listing, still not sure? how about an overhead schematic?

 

[olddavid]

A schematic or picture may be helpful but it all depends on where it was when you started. You can make #1 about any hole (if the wires will reach) by misaligning the distributor when you put it in and it will run fine if the rest of the wires are correct in reference to it. Do like Jim.ME said. Get the engine at top dead center on #1 at the compression stroke and the appropriate timing mark lined up. You may have to rotate the distributor body to get the points rubbing block off the cam before this next step. Rotate the distributor body the opposite direction the shaft turns when running to where the points just break (sparks). Where is the rotor pointing? The distributor cap hole that lines up with the rotor is number one. If all the plug wires reach it will run at this point. If you want #1 to line up with the 2 o'clock position (assuming that is correct) on the cap and it doesn't you will have to remove the distributor part way and turn the shaft until the rotor does line up with it when the shaft is reinserted and redo the static timing outlined above. Hopefully you know where the rest of the spark plug wires were in reference to #1.

 

[used red MN]

I'm still listing, still not sure? how about an overhead schematic?

Hello If you don’t know to set an engine on TDC of the compression stroke on number one you have to remove number one spark plug and either feel with a finger or thumb, or place a cotton ball in the plug hole or a plastic push in pipe cap that fits tight. Then ideally crank the engine by hand, if you pull all the spark plugs this can be done by the fan or use short bumps of the starter. When the number one cylinder pushes pressure then turn it by hand to line up the timing mark to TDC or zero. Not familiar with an Allis so not sure where to tell you they are either on the front crank pulley or veiwed through a hole to see them on the flywheel.

 

[Jim.ME]

I'm still listing, still not sure? how about an overhead schematic?

I believe the site is still having some issues and pictures and such currently will not post. This should not be much different than installing your IH distributors, which you say you have done.

Do you have a manual for the tractor? If not with a bit of searching online you can find a free pdf copy of the I&T manual that covers the D14 and some other models. I am not currently in a place where I can hunt for and give you a link to the manual.

Hello If you don’t know to set an engine on TDC of the compression stroke on number one you have to remove number one spark plug and either feel with a finger or thumb, or place a cotton ball in the plug hole or a plastic push in pipe cap that fits tight. Then ideally crank the engine by hand, if you pull all the spark plugs this can be done by the fan or use short bumps of the starter. When the number one cylinder pushes pressure then turn it by hand to line up the timing mark to TDC or zero. Not familiar with an Allis so not sure where to tell you they are either on the front crank pulley or veiwed through a hole to see them on the flywheel.

The timing marks on a D14 are on the side of the flywheel and visible through the timing window/hole in the right side of the clutch housing. It may take a fair bit of cleaning to find them. There may be a point at the center od the hole edge, if it is not there the timing marks center in the hole when setting/checking.

 

[countryman]

Mabe, I worded things wrong I set the rotor pointing straight at the engine before I pull the unit out and that's where I'll point the rotor when it goes back in. and at that time, I understand I could rotate the distributor body for timing.

Firing order 1243 rotor turns clockwise I took all the wires off to clean.

 

[Jim.ME]

Mabe, I worded things wrong I set the rotor pointing straight at the engine before I pull the unit out and that's where I'll point the rotor when it goes back in. and at that time, I understand I could rotate the distributor body for timing.

Firing order 1243 rotor turns clockwise I took all the wires off to clean.

If you put it back pointing the same as where it was when you removed it; it should be close and yes you can rotate the distributor body to adjust the timing, if you have the wires as they were before you pulled the distributor.

If your question is where you should put the #1 plug wire in the cap; you would need to have noted that before you removed wires, who knows how many times the distributor has been pulled and reinstalled in the last 65 (+/-) years and if the wires always ended up in the same lo0cation on the cap. If that is the issue do as used red MN suggested to find #1 TDC compression and see where the rotor is pointing, that is where #1 needs to be in the cap.

 

[countryman]

I should be going over there today to put the distributor in; the weather is cold & snow in Michigan the tractor is setting outside in the snow it has a crank hole in the grill but nothing to crank on the pully inside? making it difficult to rotate the engine slow with control. We are putting in a new key switch it has not been responding to the starter solenoid it been intermittent and maybe breaking up current flow to the distributor?

hopefully we can make a good thing happen.

 

[Jim.ME]

None of my D14s had cranks. There are a number of ways to rotate the engine without a hand crank, here are some.

*If I remember correctly, you can reach the starter ring gear teeth through the timing hole for fine movements.

*With all four sparkplugs out, you should be able to turn the engine with the fan, you might have to put some pressure on the belt depending on how tight it is. When turning with the fan and belt disengaging the clutch and holding (or otherwise securing it disengaged) will make turning the engine easier.

*Transmission in neutral, PTO in gear, a pipe wrench can be used to turn the PTO shaft and rotate the engine.

*Jack one rear tire up and with the transmission in 4th gear turning the wheel in the forward rotation should turn the engine.

Always be sure you are turning it in the correct direction (counterclockwise if looking at the fan when sitting in the seat) so that the slack is out of the timing gear train. If you go past the mark, you should back it up at least 1/4 turn, then go forward to the mark.

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

Usually when installing a distributor, you point rotor to the number one cylinder. Like others have said it could point any where.

 

[Nordic]

I'm attaching a picture of wire positioning from one of my D14's, they are both the same.