alternaor up grade for super 90

[packsaddle]

I bought alternaor from yesterday tractor there is a part used number adr9209 I would like some info on this part

 

[Mule Meat]

It is used to turn a Delco S1 two wire type into a one wire self exciting alternator.

 

[packsaddle]

It is used to turn a Delco S1 two wire type into a one wire self exciting alternator.

thanks for info what iam confused about is it feeds voltage to field terminal and this alternaor is controlling at 14.6 which is good but current out put hold at 25.0 amps on new batteries is this normal

 

[Janicholson]

If the battery is brand new probably OK if it is fully charged, and the accurate voltage is 14.6 at the battery terminals, it may have an issue. The amps must be going somewhere. Is the Amp reading from the OEM gauge? Jim

 

[used red MN]

thanks for info what iam confused about is it feeds voltage to field terminal and this alternaor is controlling at 14.6 which is good but current out put hold at 25.0 amps on new batteries is this normal

That plug is going to cause a slight constant draw on your battery. It is going to run your battery down if it sets a week it might take two but it will drain the battery. How long have you run/used the tractor continuously. After a half hour or less the charge rate should drop back some. That one wire conversion pig tail is not the cause of the charging problem, if you have one. Whether it is wired as an original 3 wire or using this “one wire” deal it is all the same. Both jump the “2” spade terminal back over to the output post, that spade is where the charge voltage is fed back to the internal regulator for sensing purposes. In an original 3 wire install the wire goes back up to the main feed in the dash to get a more accurate voltage of what the accessories and lights are seeing. When the tractor starts and the diode or resistor whatever they have under the black shrink tube that jumps between the “1 and 2” spade terminals sends voltage to the “1” terminal. Then the regulator “excites” and the alternator charges at the voltage the internal circuits of the regulator are set at and hold it there by varying the current to the windings in the rotor. The rotor is the spinning part that is equivalent to the armature in a generator. After the initial “excite charge” the power/wire to “terminal 1 spade” one can be disconnected and the alternator will continue charging. Some guys actually use a momentary contact push button like for a starter or horn to energize these types of alternators.
Edit to add: If you are going to run a 3 wire alternator it is best to wire it properly which will eliminate the battery drain issue.

 

[packsaddle]

If the battery is brand new probably OK if it is fully charged, and the accurate voltage is 14.6 at the battery terminals, it may have an issue. The amps must be going somewhere. Is the Amp reading from the OEM gauge? Jim

the gauge is oem there is no load else where the batterys are brand new my thought with this jump diode to make alternator one wire system will cause the output to be what i am seeing ? Thanks this altrnaor is brand new purchase from yesterday tractor.

 

[packsaddle]

That plug is going to cause a slight constant draw on your battery. It is going to run your battery down if it sets a week it might take two but it will drain the battery. How long have you run/used the tractor continuously. After a half hour or less the charge rate should drop back some. That one wire conversion pig tail is not the cause of the charging problem, if you have one. Whether it is wired as an original 3 wire or using this “one wire” deal it is all the same. Both jump the “2” spade terminal back over to the output post, that spade is where the charge voltage is fed back to the internal regulator for sensing purposes. In an original 3 wire install the wire goes back up to the main feed in the dash to get a more accurate voltage of what the accessories and lights are seeing. When the tractor starts and the diode or resistor whatever they have under the black shrink tube that jumps between the “1 and 2” spade terminals sends voltage to the “1” terminal. Then the regulator “excites” and the alternator charges at the voltage the internal circuits of the regulator are set at and hold it there by varying the current to the windings in the rotor. The rotor is the spinning part that is equivalent to the armature in a generator. After the initial “excite charge” the power/wire to “terminal 1 spade” one can be disconnected and the alternator will continue charging. Some guys actually use a momentary contact push button like for a starter or horn to energize these types of alternators.
Edit to add: If you are going to run a 3 wire alternator it is best to wire it properly which will eliminate the battery drain issue.

thanks for reply the alternor is brand new purchased from yesterday tractor .also the jumper with diode . ibelive you are correct about point system charges with internal regulator is set I was to belive what i purchase would work the batterys are brand new and there is no other load

 

[Duner Wi]

Just for fun remove ADR9209 and temporary wire alt like factory would have . #2 to battery plus terminal and momentarily touch #1 to batt terminal on back of alt. This will excite alternator so it charges. See what you have for numbers then.

 

[Duner Wi]

I should have said. Battery plus on battery. Sorry.

 

[used red MN]

How long have you run/used the tractor continuously. After a half hour or less the charge rate should drop back some.

Sorry I failed to greet you, so hello packsaddle welcome to YT! I see I failed punctuation, my third sentence of my 1st reply should have had a question mark after it, maybe that is why you didn’t answer it. So how long have you run it continuously? Many OEM Delco 10si internal regulators for ag and industrial use were set at a lower “maintain” voltage to avoid cooking the batteries. The factory knew often a farmer would hop on the tractor and run it 4-5 hours straight at fully throttle nearly the whole time. So one quick start cycle and the rest of the time it was pumping amps in the battery with nothing using up the power, because the tractor had no cab, lights when in use were the biggest electrical load. So setting the regulator “maintain” voltage lower was easier on batteries. Now these alternator are sold with higher voltage “maintain” levels to keep up with all the accessories one could think of, so this in part may be one reason for what you are seeing. You keep saying the alternator is new from Yesterday’s Tractors. In case you think these forums “answer” for the parts sold here that is not the case.

 

[wore out]

the gauge is oem there is no load else where the batterys are brand new my thought with this jump diode to make alternator one wire system will cause the output to be what i am seeing ? Thanks this altrnaor is brand new purchase from yesterday tractor.

I

the gauge is oem there is no load else where the batterys are brand new my thought with this jump diode to make alternator one wire system will cause the output to be what i am seeing ? Thanks this altrnaor is brand new purchase from yesterday tractor.

It's NOT "jump diode", it's a resistor that bleeds off a small amount of battery current when engine isn't running into the internal regulator to ensure the alternator "excites" at startup. There MAY be a diode combined with a resistor, but I can almost guarantee you it's not a diode by itself.

IMHO, a setup like that shouldn't be called an "upgrade".

The guys telling you to connect it up as a conventional "3-wire" system are "spot on".

 

[JMOR]

My question would be, what alternator did he buy? Maybe a one-wire alt with no need for adr9209?

 

[used red MN]

My question would be, what alternator did he buy? Maybe a one-wire alt with no need for adr9209?

Stifle your quandaries and head over to the N board and do some policing on me. (help that guy out with the EI diagram if I have lead him astray)

 

[JMOR]

Stifle your quandaries and head over to the N board and do some policing on me. (help that guy out with the EI diagram if I have lead him astray)

That was my way of saying, "do we know what alternator he has?"....I don't? Policing? What are you talking about???
I absolutely hate guessing! So, it would be nice if original poster would verify if the alternator in question is YT Item #: 164228.
If, so , then setting adr9209 aside and following wore outs , "The guys telling you to connect it up as a conventional "3-wire" system are "spot on", sounds right to me. Just FYI, my earlier questioning was related to whether the alternator he had was an alt that used a one-wire regulator on not.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I bought alternaor from yesterday tractor there is a part used number adr9209 I would like some info on this part

20 years ago I bought 3 wire Delco lifetime alternator from Autozone for my Farmall C.
They replaced it for free. The alternator would have cost me almost $100,
If it lasts another 20 years it will be someone else's problem.