Alternator conversion 7000 ford

[jubilee ohio]

Hello everyone.. I bought a 7000 ford diesel and the charging system is cobbled up.I'm considering getting a conversion kit off this sight. Was wondering everyone else's thoughts before I spend the money. Quality instructions ect.... This tractor all ready has a tach drive at the oil pump so that isn't an issue... thanks

 

[used red MN]

Your 7000 came from the factory with an alternator but likely has an external regulator. In my opinion getting some type of a kit is just a waste of money, especially if you are looking at kit 150227, it includes brackets to mount an alternator in place of a generator which you don’t need. I recommend a Delco 10si 3 wire alternator, go to a parts store and ask for an alternator for a 79 Chevy pickup with a 350. The little harness kit they sell 164237 may be worthwhile, I don’t necessarily agree with their $15 minimum shipping charge. A few questions asked on here on wiring it up and how to bypass the external voltage regulator wiring and you should basically be good to go. I guess if you are the type that doesn’t mind spending some extra bucks to get plug and play then a kit may be for you. I would definitely call to order and ask for a kit that doesn’t have the brackets or tach drive it should be cheaper.

 

[jubilee ohio]

Your 7000 came from the factory with an alternator but likely has an external regulator. In my opinion getting some type of a kit is just a waste of money, especially if you are looking at kit 150227, it includes brackets to mount an alternator in place of a generator which you don’t need. I recommend a Delco 10si 3 wire alternator, go to a parts store and ask for an alternator for a 79 Chevy pickup with a 350. The little harness kit they sell 164237 may be worthwhile, I don’t necessarily agree with their $15 minimum shipping charge. A few questions asked on here on wiring it up and how to bypass the external voltage regulator wiring and you should basically be good to go. I guess if you are the type that doesn’t mind spending some extra bucks to get plug and play then a kit may be for you. I would definitely call to order and ask for a kit that doesn’t have the brackets or tach drive it should be cheaper.

Thanks much for the info... the brackets look like the came off something else. The bottom one isn't even bolted on to anything. The tach cable was cut off and it's located by the oil filter. There's a voltage regulator zip tied the the air intake... I want to clean that mess all up....

 

[caterpillar guy]

Well like used red said and if you get the 3 wire set up you can dispense with the regulator so that would not be there and for the couple wire you can run a wire of 10 gage from the Bat bolt to the amp gauge and the one from the plug goes to the bat terminal and the other goes to a switch of some sort IE an oil sender that is open when shut down or a diode in the line or whatever floats your program. Not enough to do o warrant any kit.

 

[used red MN]

In essence you will need two wires one 10 gauge that goes from the terminal on the back of the alternator to the solenoid where the positive battery cable connects. A 14 or 16 ga wire that goes to the switched side of the ignition. That wire could also be powered by the charge lamp in the dash. There is or was in stock form a wire from that lamp to the voltage regulator, that is the wire that should connect to the 1 spade terminal on the alternator. The side wires spade terminal 2 just gets a short jumper back around to the back terminal post. Look at the back side of the alternator in the link to see what I am talking about. Example Delco 10si alternator
Here is the pigtail you need to go in the side plug. Alt pigtail
Edit: Cat guy was typing at the same time, disregard the ammeter your tractor doesn’t have one. Going through the lamp as I stated just make it operate as stock with a warning lamp. On a diesel (which I am assuming you have) with a cable shut off on the pump the diode CG talks about is not needed.

 

[jubilee ohio]

In essence you will need two wires one 10 gauge that goes from the terminal on the back of the alternator to the solenoid where the positive battery cable connects. A 14 or 16 ga wire that goes to the switched side of the ignition. That wire could also be powered by the charge lamp in the dash. There is or was in stock form a wire from that lamp to the voltage regulator, that is the wire that should connect to the 1 spade terminal on the alternator. The side wires spade terminal 2 just gets a short jumper back around to the back terminal post. Look at the back side of the alternator in the link to see what I am talking about. Example Delco 10si alternator
Here is the pigtail you need to go in the side plug. Alt pigtail
Edit: Cat guy was typing at the same time, disregard the ammeter your tractor doesn’t have one. Going through the lamp as I stated just make it operate as stock with a warning lamp. On a diesel (which I am assuming you have) with a cable shut off on the pump the diode CG talks about is not needed.

Ok I took some time tonight and did a little investigation. It has a Delco-Remy 3 wire 8F 19-12v Neg 63A. And a prestolite voltage regulator 4 wires that is plugged into the original harness.On the alternator #1was connected to brn. with blue stripe wire.#2 was jumped to bat terminal. Bat terminal has large wire going to solenoid. The previous owner would unhook bat wire after he shut it off so it wouldn't drain the battery.. I think I have enough to work with here......

 

[Janicholson]

The regulator is not intended to be used for a Delco 3 wire (assumes the alternator) eliminate the regulator mounted on the tractor from prior owner. The wire to the solenoid should be fused with a 70 amp fuse link to protect against ruining the alternator The #1 wire attaches to a oil pressure switch from NAPA or? that has 2 terminals, The second terminal is connected to the battery Plus (same as the fuse link) this excites the alt when running and shuts it off when no oil pressure (off)). The #2 terminal does attach to the BAT stud. Jim

 

[jubilee ohio]

O

The regulator is not intended to be used for a Delco 3 wire (assumes the alternator) eliminate the regulator mounted on the tractor from prior owner. The wire to the solenoid should be fused with a 70 amp fuse link to protect against ruining the alternator The #1 wire attaches to a oil pressure switch from NAPA or? that has 2 terminals, The second terminal is connected to the battery Plus (same as the fuse link) this excites the alt when running and shuts it off when no oil pressure (off)). The #2 terminal does attach to the BAT stud. Jim View attachment 87738

Where would the lamp on the dash be hooked up?? Thanks mo

 

[used red MN]

Ok I took some time tonight and did a little investigation. It has a Delco-Remy 3 wire 8F 19-12v Neg 63A. And a prestolite voltage regulator 4 wires that is plugged into the original harness.On the alternator #1was connected to brn. with blue stripe wire.#2 was jumped to bat terminal. Bat terminal has large wire going to solenoid. The previous owner would unhook bat wire after he shut it off so it wouldn't drain the battery.. I think I have enough to work with here......

Does your alternator have a two spade plug in the side as the one in the photo by Jim has shown by the 12:00? If so it has already been converted to a 3 wire if those spades are connecting to wiring. If the side terminals are not connected then you have a 10SI that has been modified for one wire self excite operation. I doubt this is the case but you may also have a Delco 10DN alternator that requires an external regulator. It would have a two spade plug into the back in a configuration like this.. I I ..instead the.. - - ..that the 10SI internal regulator type has. My guess is the regulator you see is not active and was for the original alternator and it has a Delco 10SI 3 wire already in use. Does the “battery” light in your dash come on with the key on and the tractor not running then go out when the engine starts? If so the alternator was installed utilizing the dash lamp to power the alternator’s excite circuit.

 

[jubilee ohio]

 

[jubilee ohio]

Took it off this morning feels like the bearings are gone.. since I have to buy one anyway is this model suitable or should I get something different??

 

[Jim.ME]

Took it off this morning feels like the bearings are gone.. since I have to buy one anyway is this model suitable or should I get something different??

That model is suitable and commonly available, it is a common three wire Delco type 10SI alternator. The alternator in your picture has the optional "R" terminal under the rubber cover above the output stud. As it has the protective cover on it, your tractor is not using it, and you don't need to have one with the "R" terminal. (From a Delco instruction sheet: “R” Terminal - Relay terminal carries half systems voltage and may be used for certain types of control relays, charge indicators, tachometers or similar devices. This may be the third terminal in the voltage regulator opening or a threaded stud or pin on the case near the output terminal.)

You may need to swap the pulley from your current alternator to the replacement to have the correct size for the belt on the tractor.

 

[jubilee ohio]

Thanks to all for the help.. Very much appreciated........

 

[Janicholson]

If you want a light on the dash, it is easily done connect the second oil pressure terminal I mentioned to one terminal of the light (must have two terminals not one and the light housing for ground) Then from the second light terminal to the Starter solenoid where the fuse link attaches. Jim

 

[used red MN]

O

Where would the lamp on the dash be hooked up?? Thanks mo

If you have a lamp in the dash at the bottom left corner that is where the lamp was originally located. Pull the dash and see if the socket is in there behind it. Assuming you do have a on/off key switch one side is powered by the key and the other will run down to the 1 side terminal spade on the alternator. That wire may already be there connected to the original voltage regulator. If you have an incandescent lamp (regular bulb not an LED) turn the key on and probe the terminals in the original regulator plug with the key on. If the bulb is in the socket in the dash and is good one of those wires will make the dash lamp glow dimly. That will be the wire that should continue on to the 1 terminal. If you have an LED test light a light momentary touch to ground should make the light shine with the key on. The heavier wires to the regulator will not be the one that goes to the dash light and will probably just spark when touched to ground. i didn’t give these “ifs” above, but if you have a diesel, with a pull cable shut off, and it has a on off key switch you do not need the oil pressure switch some are suggesting if this is a gas tractor it will still work properly with the original dash lamp if you can make it work. It may also work fine how it is wired now, only thing is the dash lamp may or may not work.
Example dash