Alternator conversion not working

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 08:19:45 04/04/23)
Do you have battery voltage at the output terminal of the alternator? If not, check that the fuse hasn't blown. The alternator could have spiked above 30 amps and blown it. Confirm the wire from the alternator is not on the terminal with the wire to the solenoid, that would bypass the ammeter so charge wouldn't show.

Whut Jim.ME has been posting. BTW pitch that 30amp fuse if you wish to use 30amp buy a 5gal bucket full of'em cuzz you will need every one of'em. If you wish to fuse the circuit solider in a 14ga. fusible link.

A voltmeter is your friend and the first tool used to diagnose the starting/charging system.

BTW "SPIKED" That alt is more than likely capable of outputting 60amps that's normal and exactly how its expose to work. A 30amp fuse will go by by in the blink of an eye. Until you get it working bypass that fuse. The easiest thing to do is wire directly from the alt output stud to the battery, the tractor engine is your alternator test stand no need to haul the alt to a parts store for testing. If folks don't understand that statement they don't need to be in the batting line up.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

He finally got the right answer

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 18:16:17 04/03/23) I got the wiring diagram from this site. I switched wires on the ammeter so polarity was correct, ran a #10 wire from ammeter to the alternator and put a 30 amp fuse in the line.

Check the fuse. You probably blew it immediately when the tractor first started.

There is NO mention of a fuse in any wiring diagram I've ever seen. Take it out.

 

[Jim in NC]

I was pointing towards the heavier fan belt from the crankshaft pulley to the fan. The alternator is powered by that belt. If the main belt is just a touch too lose the additional load by an alternator may cause it to slip a little. I have seen it happen on an H and a Super A.

 

[Jim.ME]

There is at least one drawing in the document about converting from a 6 to 12 volt system in the Articles section of this site, that shows a 30 amp fuse in the alternator output wire. That might have gotten by with the old 37 amp Delco alternators, but I see it as more of a problem area where most 10SI/12SI type alternators now have a 60 plus amp output.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 18:27:59 04/04/23)
There is at least one drawing in the document about converting from a 6 to 12 volt system in the Articles section of this site, that shows a 30 amp fuse in the alternator output wire. That might have gotten by with the old 37 amp Delco alternators, but I see it as more of a problem area where most 10SI/12SI type alternators now have a 60 plus amp output.

Most all 10si are built with a 60amp stator its the standard stator and more than likely all the builder stocks. You may find a 37amp stator I never stocked one and never seen a reason to.

 

[sotxbill]

as said.... 30 amp fuse is a no no. as its a 68 amp alternator if you can spin it fast enough...... also a one wire alternator must be revved up high to start charging the first time across the internal bleed resistor... Good reason to add an ignition sense wire with a light bulb or diode, so that it will charge as soon as started and you dont have to rev a cold engine. Thick belt, I just ordered a thick alternator pulley off of ebay for the older tractor conversions. Also, the old amp meter could have acted as a fuse and burnt open, so I would check it or remove it and run the output wire directly to the battery cable.

 

[rustred]

Actually it should have a voltmeter.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 06:44:48 04/05/23) Actually it should have a voltmeter.

Whut he said.

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 16:31:43 04/04/23) as said.... 30 amp fuse is a no no.

OEM vehicle circuits (where the 10SI came from) NEVER (AFAIK) used a fuse in the alternator output circuit. You DON'T want to subject an alternator to an ''open circuit'' when it's charging heavily.

MANY used a ''fusible link'', though.

For alternators in this output range a 16GA fusible link would be a reasonable choice, IMHO.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Yup H and MD run a smaller separate belt for the alt/gen. 5/8-3/4 around water pump and crank.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 17:47:27 04/04/23)

(quoted from post at 06:44:48 04/05/23) Actually it should have a voltmeter.

Whut he said.

No. Again, that is personal preference. There's nothing wrong with an ammeter. It tells you just as much as a voltmeter, is already there, and doesn't require rewiring the tractor to make it work.

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 09:51:46 04/05/23)

(quoted from post at 17:47:27 04/04/23)

(quoted from post at 06:44:48 04/05/23) Actually it should have a voltmeter.

Whut he said.

No. Again, that is personal preference. There's nothing wrong with an ammeter. It tells you just as much as a voltmeter, is already there, and doesn't require rewiring the tractor to make it work.

Agreed, using a voltmeter or ammeter is a personal preference, either will work.

I have seen the old 15 or 30 amp ammeters give up at times, when feed by a 60+ amp alternator. The old ammeter needs to be checked if no charge is shown to be sure it is good. (And using a voltmeter to check battery voltage is a common suggestion made for troubleshooting.)

Personal preference, I choose to change to a voltmeter rather than install a new higher range ammeter, each to his own on which to use.

 

[sotxbill]

Is he.... trying to pass 60 amps through a volt meter? or the 18 gauge volt meter wiring to the ig switch? thats a no go. Without seeing the whole wiring, its hard to tell where the boo boo is.

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 11:18:01 04/05/23) Is he.... trying to pass 60 amps through a volt meter? or the 18 gauge volt meter wiring to the ig switch? thats a no go. Without seeing the whole wiring, its hard to tell where the boo boo is.

From what he has posted, he has a 30 amp fuse in the wire between the ammeter and alternator output terminal. Someone else injected changing to a voltmeter.

super99 needs to return and post answers to some of the questions previously asked to get better help, we are all just guessing at this point.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 19:51:46 04/05/23)

(quoted from post at 17:47:27 04/04/23)

(quoted from post at 06:44:48 04/05/23) Actually it should have a voltmeter.

Whut he said.

No. Again, that is personal preference. There's nothing wrong with an ammeter. It tells you just as much as a voltmeter, is already there, and doesn't require rewiring the tractor to make it work.

Really... That Dinky Thing...For all practical normal use a Voltmeter is the tool of choice. For all normal Diagnosis a Voltmeter is the FIRST tool of choice. Its a rare occasions a amp meter is needed.

This one always stumps ammeter lubbers.

My tractor wont crank my little dinky dash mounted ammeter reads ZERO.

A voltmeter will give you useful static and dynamic information. Even this post started out my alt is not charging, you can not tell me a voltage reading was not necessary to properly diagnose the issue. How could you solely base a properly diagnostics on a Ammeter that reads ZERO.

Once this issue gets resolved ammeter are not to confirm proper operation you will need to know the voltage. The problem with all out amp diagnosis is its all over the place and never stable. The question is always there unless for some reason you can dream up some kind of self good feeling about it. In other words some BS.