Alternator conversion to 1 wire

jaspruden

Member
I recently purchased the 1 wire conversion kit from Yesterday s tractor. Looked like a straight forward conversion, plug in into the 2 pin, connect one wire to the alternator output and run a wire to the + battery post.

Did not charge. Anything special I need to do to get the Delco alternator working?

It did work as a 2 wire but wanted to get away from the light bulb thing.
 
(quoted from post at 08:58:35 05/02/23) I recently purchased the 1 wire conversion kit from Yesterday s tractor. Looked like a straight forward conversion, plug in into the 2 pin, connect one wire to the alternator output and run a wire to the + battery post.

Did not charge. Anything special I need to do to get the Delco alternator working?

It did work as a 2 wire but wanted to get away from the light bulb thing.
id the kit include the one-wire alternator? If so, and it is really a one-wire, then the two pin connector should have NOTHING connected to it, nothing at all. "One wire" means "one".. That 'one' is from stud to battery (via ammeter if you are using ammeter).
 
Have you tried full throttle no load?

I would be interested to know just what is in that thing. Cannot be a simple diode as the full field current on a 12 Volt 10SI alternator is 4 to 5 Amps and would run the battery down in short order when the engine is not running.
 
JMOR here is a link to the <a href=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/ADR9209_Alternator-Conversion-Plug_30981.htm>snake oil device</a>.
 
(quoted from post at 10:11:45 05/02/23) JMOR here is a link to the &lt;a href=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/ADR9209_Alternator-Conversion-Plug_30981.htm&gt;snake oil device&lt;/a&gt;.
n 'educated' guess is that it is a resistor between pin 2 and pin 1, yielding a continuous excite current. Counting on user to run the machine often enough that battery doesn't discharge too much between run times. If that is what it is, I will go with your description as a "snake oil device". He can use an Ohmmeter to measure the resistance between pin 1 and 2 with meter leads used both red to pin 1, then red to pin 2. If same reading in both directions, the it is simple resistor. Or he could remove the shrink wrap and look at it.
 
Its common to have to rev up the tractor.... enough for the alternator to excite and then start charging. My problem with that is... That I have to rev up a cold engine just after starting,,, to get the alternator to kick in. Not the best practice on a cold engine not to mention that an 8n will buck and cough and pop and fizzy till its warmed up a bit. The solution for that is... to run the bulb or diode circuit to the ig pin so that the alternator will self excite as soon as you start it. Even the so called boat alternators that feature one wire... still require you to rev them up to excite them. So you pick your choice.
 
(quoted from post at 07:57:25 05/02/23) Its common to have to rev up the tractor.... enough for the alternator to excite and then start charging. My problem with that is... That I have to rev up a cold engine just after starting,,, to get the alternator to kick in. Not the best practice on a cold engine not to mention that an 8n will buck and cough and pop and fizzy till its warmed up a bit. The solution for that is... to run the bulb or diode circuit to the ig pin so that the alternator will self excite as soon as you start it. Even the so called boat alternators that feature one wire... still require you to rev them up to excite them. So you pick your choice.

I just let the engine run for 2 or 3 minutes off the battery then rev it up to excite the alternator.
 
Well I did as suggested and revved it up. Took a few seconds but it did start charging. After it started charging it was going at a 14.58 volts. I could get it almost back to idle before the voltage started dropping back. It would come right back up if I increased the speed again.

When I turned it off and cranked it again, I still had to speed it up to get it to charge but not to full throttle this time. May have had some residual charge in the alternator.

I did unplug it and measure the resistance. It is 150 Ohm. Both directions so it is a resistor not a diode.

This post was edited by jaspruden on 05/02/2023 at 09:43 am.
 
(quoted from post at 12:39:05 05/02/23) Well I did as suggested and revved it up. Took a few seconds but it did start charging. After it started charging it was going at a 14.58 volts. I could get it almost back to idle before the voltage started dropping back. It would come right back up if I increased the speed again.

When I turned it off and cranked it again, I still had to speed it up to get it to charge but not to full throttle this time. May have had some residual charge in the alternator.

I did unplug it and measure the resistance. It is 150 Ohm. Both directions so it is a resistor not a diode.

This post was edited by jaspruden on 05/02/2023 at 09:43 am.
hat is a bit more than 100 times the standby/full time drain of a factory GM 10SI alternator, so probably best if started &amp; run more than once or twice a year,
 
I used the marine version of the Delco 10si alternator from my local NAPA store on a couple of my Fords because they start charging without having to rev up the engine.
 
(quoted from post at 20:28:07 05/03/23) I used the marine version of the Delco 10si alternator from my local NAPA store on a couple of my Fords because they start charging without having to rev up the engine.
ooks like marine version only claims plating for better corrosion protection and spark suppression screen. What rpm does your start charging?
 

I had a non charging alternator on the shelf. Took it apart and the windings all test good. I found a self exciting regulator module on Ebay. Hopefully it will work better than the "snake oil" conversion wire.
 
600 rpm is where it started charging. I started it with throttle at lowest position, and my tractor will idle at about 450 so I did have to give it a little throttle. Also included a picture of the part number of the alternator, solenoid, and coil I used in my conversion.
cvphoto154251.jpg


cvphoto154252.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 20:38:56 05/04/23)
I had a non charging alternator on the shelf. Took it apart and the windings all test good. I found a self exciting regulator module on Ebay. Hopefully it will work better than the "snake oil" conversion wire.
here are several 1-wire VRs on the market and some advertise that the specific model starts charging at a lower rpm than others.
 

Hello Michford,

I'm having issues with my alternators also. My local Napa has the alternator you used and I can get it tomorrow.

Can you tell me how you wired it just to be sure? Also, is your battery still charging properly?

Thank you and have a great day.
 
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