Alternator for 860 Ford

[Va Gasman]

I recently installed a hytachi Alt on Super H. I have a friend that has a 860 Ford and wants me to install an alternator for His 860. What is the route to install alternator and what works best?
Thanks, Randy

 

[JMOR]

Anything with internal VR will make wiring easy, so I would say Delco 10-SI will be about as low cost as you will find, primarily due to huge numbers produced over so many years. Easy mounting is important.

 

[old]

Delco 10SI is a cheap common as dirt alternator and easy to wire up. One made to fit say a 1980 Chev pick up no power any thing no AC. O'Reilly's in my area has them for $45 plus a $10 and that is with a life time warranty

 

[mgriff543]

Here's some pics of the alt on my 860. Excuse the crappy welds on my home made bracket. I had to re-bend the top strap to make it square. If I had to do it again, I'd drop the alt about 3/4" to better clear the governor linkage. This is a 12si, the newer version of the 10si. It bolts the same and the generator pulley will fit on either. HTH

Mike

 

[sixbales]

I would get a 12V conversion kit. Cost +/-$135. Kit includes 63 amp 1-wire Alternator, Brackets, Resistor, Wiring Harness, Pulley, Hardware Kit, Instructions, one year warranty.

Kits are available on this site, ebay, many internet sites.

 

[old]

The 1 wire set ups tend to cause more problem they they are worth and cost twice as much

 

[souNdguy]

as you can see.. delco 10si alts are cheap and easy to find.

You can get them as low as 30$ with core.. or 40-45 with no core.

top bracket is easy.. bottom bracket can be the gen bracket and long screw and stack of washers and a pipe. or a moded bracket.

get the correct pulley

get a napa ic14sb ( 16$ ) coil and forget any stupid ressistors.

can hack up the wireing a bit and use the original armature and field wires.. plus a jumper to jump charge psot to #2. #1 uses field wire, arm wire to charge stufd.

pull old vreg... combine arm and bat wire.

run field wire to key side of ignition thru a 194 lamp.. or a diode capable of a minimum of 1a / 50piv.. though 3a/200 piv is better.. stripe on diode towards alternator. radi shack 276-1661 or 276-1141 are fine.. generically.. a 1n5408 will work.

should be pretty easy.

 

[OH - 961]

"The 1 wire set ups tend to cause more problem they they are worth and cost twice as much."

Not trying to hijack someone else's post, but why are the one-wire setups problematic?
I have read that they don't start to charge at low RPM, but will they continue to charge if revved up fast enough to start charging, and then slow the engine speed down, or will they drop back out at lower RPM?

Myron

 

[old]

High RPM at start up then when shut down they can still cause a low drain on the battery so if left say a week you end up with a dead battery

 

[OH - 961]

"High RPM at start up then when shut down they can still cause a low drain on the battery"

Do they continue to charge when the RPM drops, or do they quit completely?

The drain could be remedied by putting a high-amperage diode in series with the output lead, but the diode might cost nearly as much as the alternator.

Myron

 

[crazylocha]

Off the top of my pea brain, remembering several previous conversations about said subject...

if memory serves correct, SG's part #'s found at Radio Shack were something like $3 tops for the diode. Been awhile since checked instore...

Correction, Online 4 pack...

Don't break the bank for $2.99 4-pack

 

[OH - 961]

The diodes would have to handle the full output current of the alternator, and at 6 amps each, you would need to wire a bunch of them in parallel to handle the amperage.
I think I would be more comfortable with just one diode that would handle the amperage of the alternator, (and probably a bit more expensive).

Myron

 

[crazylocha]

Will be the first to admit electrical is definitely not my strong suit.

Many here have helped me limp along on basics of starter/VR/Genny etc.

Mea Culpa: Conversing with wifey while packing computer desk piles for house move, and mixed amp/volt #'s in my head. My apologies.

Breaking down the coding for Google's B'day Pinata doodle to hack it and get 50,000 plus candies per hit, easy.

Diodes. yeah. that stripey thingy on the board does something or another. other peoples expertise.

In the effort of straining my knowledge limits, and trying to learn it.... See if I have this part right...

SG's diodes are for "tickling" the built in VR on Alt to get it to charge at lower levels (RPM's)

Not understanding Old's comments of HOW said alt can cause a drain in the first place. Part of what your are looking for is something to stop said action, correct?
Confused and buried in packing tape with T-45hours until da Boss (wifey) has total meltdown with house move.

Appreciate everybodies help in trying to understand the complications, was thinking about changing my 3000 over to it when Genny eventually dies(never?? hopefully)

 

[OH - 961]

crazyllocha
I have forgotten a lot of what little I knew about electronics "back in the day", but here goes:

soundguys hookup only requires the diode to handle current in the field wire which isn't too great.

The one-wire hookup that I commented on would require the diode to handle the [b:ff4c931698]full[/b:ff4c931698] output of the alternator, to keep current from bleeding back through the alternator when it isn't charging.

A diode is just a "valve" that only lets current flow in one direction, in this case [b:ff4c931698]out[/b:ff4c931698] of the alternator.

Maybe SG or old will explain why the alternator would bleed off the battery when not charging - I'm not sure how that happens. (That is probably why [b:ff4c931698]old[/b:ff4c931698] commented that the one-wire alternators caused more trouble than they were worth.)

Myron

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 10:54:09 09/29/13) crazyllocha
I have forgotten a lot of what little I knew about electronics "back in the day", but here goes:

soundguys hookup only requires the diode to handle current in the field wire which isn't too great.

The one-wire hookup that I commented on would require the diode to handle the [b:d7078ec243]full[/b:d7078ec243] output of the alternator, to keep current from bleeding back through the alternator when it isn't charging.

A diode is just a "valve" that only lets current flow in one direction, in this case [b:d7078ec243]out[/b:d7078ec243] of the alternator.

Maybe SG or old will explain why the alternator would bleed off the battery when not charging - I'm not sure how that happens. (That is probably why [b:d7078ec243]old[/b:d7078ec243] commented that the one-wire alternators caused more trouble than they were worth.)

Myron

he excite diode is to prevent the alternator's diode trio from feeding the ignition & keeping engine running after you turn key off & is NOT related to any draining of battery when all is off. ALL 10si regulators whether one wire, two or three wire have a tiny always present drain of from micro amps up to a little over a milliampere into the sense terminal. I have measured several and all are within this range, but haven't measured all that exist in this world. Such a low drain is in fact so low that the battery will self discharge on the shelf by the time this tiny drain would discharge it....on the order of years, not weeks! If discharging in weeks or months, then something wrong elsewhere as in battery or a bad (not normal) alternator. Some one wire VRs will allow charging to begin at lower rpm than others. Once they reach charging rpm and you slow down, they will keep charging even. At the slower rpm.....they don't just drop out.

 

[OH - 961]

Thanks JMOR,
Your post cleared up some confusion that I had on a couple of items.

Myron

 

[crazylocha]

Thank you very very much for the edification Myron and Jmor.

The milliamp drain makes much more sense now. And the diode explanation now clicks years and years of seeing them on computer parts and their placements. Sort of a back flow preventer valve on an outdoor water spiket or garden watering system.

Seemed weird to me why so many auto engineers would let car batts get drained without changing or adding something. The milliamp draw version is common on motherboards draining the Cmos batteries when completely unused and not installed. Like Jmor said, more drain would be likely other issues, now that I have a better understanding of issues.

Thank all three (you too Old)

Mikey

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 21:05:34 09/29/13) Thank you very very much for the edification Myron and Jmor.

The milliamp drain makes much more sense now. And the diode explanation now clicks years and years of seeing them on computer parts and their placements. Sort of a back flow preventer valve on an outdoor water spiket or garden watering system.

Seemed weird to me why so many auto engineers would let car batts get drained without changing or adding something. The milliamp draw version is common on motherboards draining the Cmos batteries when completely unused and not installed. Like Jmor said, more drain would be likely other issues, now that I have a better understanding of issues.

Thank all three (you too Old)

Mikey

ust one more "tid bit" as to a 'good' alternator 'drain' not being a problem: Modern vehicles with a dozen or more microprocessors/computers and the memories to 'keep alive' drain the battery at a rate of 30 to 50 times the rate of a good alternator. So, then we are talking months instead of years.