alternator pulley replacement

Lee Pichan

New User
I have purchased a 12 volt conversion kit from Yesterday"s Tractor for my "48 8N (front mount distributor). Today I tore into the project and everything is going ok so far, except it looks like I need to change the pulley on the alternator in the kit. There is a extra pulley with a wider v, but does anyone have any tips on holding the shaft so that I can get the lock nut off?
 

Hi Lee, I had the same problem with mine. Yes, a wider pulley is needed, if my memory is any good (and I have CRS) its for a 5/8" wide belt. The pulley on your alternator is too narrow. If you have the same Delco alternator as I do, it can be removed with a box wrench on the nut and an Allen (hex) wench on the shaft. I used an Allen adapter on my 1/2" drive breaker bar - worked great. It took longer to find the tools than to get the pulley off.

If you can't locate the wide pulley on YT, post back and I'll figure out where I got mine.

Kurt-NEPA
 
Kurt,

Thanks! - I didn't notice the hex screw before. One more question. There was a 12volt coil in the kit along with a resistor. Do I need a total resistance of 3.3 ohms either with or without the resistor?

thanks again!
 
Take a look a the coil - If does not say something like "external resistor not required", I'd spend the $15 or so and find one that does. A good one is NAPA IC14SB. Those external resistors are a PITA.

I think you'll really like your 12V conversion, I know I did. Are you using a 3 wire alternator with a diode on the one lead from the 2 prong plug? That works really well.

Kurt-NEPA
 

Opps, my mistake, I was thinking side mount - told you I had CRS. HCooke is right, you need the resistor. forget what I said.

Kurt-NEPA
 
(quoted from post at 14:55:27 04/04/09) I have purchased a 12 volt conversion kit from Yesterday"s Tractor for my "48 8N (front mount distributor). Today I tore into the project and everything is going ok so far, except it looks like I need to change the pulley on the alternator in the kit. There is a extra pulley with a wider v, but does anyone have any tips on holding the shaft so that I can get the lock nut off?

A {rat tat tat} impact will usually take them right off. as long as you have it turning the right direction.

I can't be sure if I am right or not, but it seems the alternators nuts were left hand threads. Don't hold me to that.
 
So do I need to check the total resistance to decide if I need the extra resistor (the original resistor is on the tractor), or just add it? What should the total resistance be?

thanks for all of the help!
 

Out of curiosity what color is the replacement pulley,,, most well all 12v kits I have ran into have the wrong replacement pulley and the wrong coil,,, you need to check the resistance of the new coil and report back
 
Genesee Pructs has them. I just ordered one a couple of days ago($18 +shpg). The guy was really helpful on the phone. www.geneseeproducts.com
 
Genesee Products has them. I just ordered one a couple of days ago($18 +shpg). The guy was really helpful on the phone. www.geneseeproducts.com
 
(quoted from post at 21:14:48 04/04/09)
right hand threads

I will tell you this...

When my battery charger died, I decided that I could take my {rat a tat tat} impact, with the belt off, and put it on my alternator nut, and tried to charge my battery with it.

But I kept unscrewing the nut off the alternator pulley.

Had to go buy a new battery charger.
 
Lee.......pay attention. Its the COIL RESISTANCE that is important. Once you know that, you ADD EXTERNAL resistance if needed (including the "infamous ballast resistor") to control yer coil amps to UNDER 3-amps total or you will melt the internal insulative tar. Its the LAW, Kirchhoff's Law.

Your coil resistance will be about 1-ohm for the original 6-volt coil ...or... will be about 2.5-ohm for the modern 12v squarecan ignition coil. BOTH the 6v and 12v coil NEED the "infamous ballast resistor". And ONLY the 6v coil needs the ADDITIONAL 12v-to-6v converting resistor of 2.5-ohms. .......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Dell,

The original 6volt coil had a resistance of .7 ohms, and the 12 volt coil that came with the conversion kit has a resistance of 3 ohms.

The original resistor in the tractor has a resistance of 1.0 ohms. The add on resistor in the kit is 4.9 ohms. So do I need the extra resistor?

Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 14:40:59 04/05/09) Dell,

The original 6volt coil had a resistance of .7 ohms, and the 12 volt coil that came with the conversion kit has a resistance of 3 ohms.

The original resistor in the tractor has a resistance of 1.0 ohms. The add on resistor in the kit is 4.9 ohms. So do I need the extra resistor?

Thanks!

The add on resistor in the kit is 4.9 ohms. So do I need the extra resistor?

Do you mean the extra resistor in the kit measures 4.9 all by its self :idea:

Or your total with the added resistor is 4.9

Did you zero the meter B-4 you took the readings
 
Lee.......very good. Ohm meters are NOT very accurate at low ohm values. Its a meter technical thing.

Howsomevers; 0.7-ohms for the OEM 6v squarecan coil is close enuff. 3-ohms for the new 12v squarecan coil is good. And 1-ohm for the "infamous ballast resistor" is very good too.

As I said use the modern 12v squarecan coil with the MANDATORY "infamous ballast resistor". NO OTHER RESISTOR. Understand???

THROW THAT M*F 4.9-OHM RESISTOR IN THE M*F TRASH.......the angry Dell
 

Got a pix

most sell one but its wrong,,,if its a 3/4" they sold as a universal,,, they are not doing anyone a favor.



AltPulleyupdate.jpg
[/img]
 
Used the 12 volt coil and left the 4.9 ohm resistor in the box, and it fired right up! Runs great.

Thanks to everyone for all of the help!

 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top