Alternator single post

[Brent 41 9N]

I have the single post Delco-Remy. The terminals are there for the trigger and the sense. I stated in the other message how I have to trigger the alternator in order to get it to charge, then it is charging to much. If I tied my sense to the battery would that regulate the charging amps?

 

[Dell (WA)]

Brent......tie yer #2 (sense) terminal to yer BIG stud alternator output with 3-in of wire. Simple, eh? ......Dell

 

[Brent 41 9N]

Thanks Dell

 

[Jimps]

(quoted from post at 22:15:07 03/02/10) Brent......tie yer #2 (sense) terminal to yer BIG stud alternator output with 3-in of wire. Simple, eh? ......Dell

Like this:

I put one of these in my Farmall Super A also, wired the same. Works great. I acquired these already converted to 12 volts.

Jimps in GA.

 

[Brent 41 9N]

I appreciate the assistance. What do you have the #1 terminal with the yellow wire connected to?

 

[Jimps]

To the "hot" side of the ignition switch, same terminal that feeds power to the coil.

Jimps in GA.

 

[old]

The #1 wire is hooked to the ignition switch the side that is hot when it is on. You can also hook it to the ignition side of the coil since that is the same place electrically. You do need a diode or light in that wire also or you will not be able to turn your tractor off. I use radio shack diode #276-1661 cost $2.50 for a pack of 4. The strip in the diode goes to the alternator

 

[Jimps]

(quoted from post at 23:28:17 03/02/10) The #1 wire is hooked to the ignition switch the side that is hot when it is on. You can also hook it to the ignition side of the coil since that is the same place electrically. You do need a diode or light in that wire also or you will not be able to turn your tractor off. I use radio shack diode #276-1661 cost $2.50 for a pack of 4. The strip in the diode goes to the alternator

I put the diode on my Super A, since I had the #1 wire connected directly to the hot side of the ignition switch. But on my 8N, the PO had installed an ignition switch with an Accessory terminal, which is on while hot. I wired the #1 terminal from the alternator to that terminal, which seems to work fine when I turn off the tractor.

So, should I wire in the diode anyway? I guess it wouldn't hurt, but it has been working fine that way for over a year now. Hmm, I guess I could check continuity between the accessory and on terminals when the switch is off.

Jimps in GA.

 

[Jimps]

(quoted from post at 23:37:03 03/02/10)

(quoted from post at 23:28:17 03/02/10) The #1 wire is hooked to the ignition switch the side that is hot when it is on. You can also hook it to the ignition side of the coil since that is the same place electrically. You do need a diode or light in that wire also or you will not be able to turn your tractor off. I use radio shack diode #276-1661 cost $2.50 for a pack of 4. The strip in the diode goes to the alternator

I put the diode on my Super A, since I had the #1 wire connected directly to the hot side of the ignition switch. But on my 8N, the PO had installed an ignition switch with an Accessory terminal, which is on while hot. I wired the #1 terminal from the alternator to that terminal, which seems to work fine when I turn off the tractor.

So, should I wire in the diode anyway? I guess it wouldn't hurt, but it has been working fine that way for over a year now. Hmm, I guess I could check continuity between the accessory and on terminals when the switch is off.

Jimps in GA.

OK, I couldn't stand it, so I ran out to the shed in my drawers to check continuity between the "accessory" and "on" terminals. No continuity. So I do not need the diode in my case because the coil is not DIRECTLY connected to the #1 terminal on the alternator. Once I turn the key off, I break the connection between the coil and the battery and #1 terminal. Any residual power generated from the alternator while the tractor is spinning down is NOT going the coil, thus it shuts off as desired. If I didn't have this type of ignition switch, a diode would work (like on my Super A) since it only allows power to run one way.

Jimps in GA.

 

[Brent 41 9N]

If I tie #1 terminal in to the ignition side of the switch, it should turn off with the ignition, right? Tie #2 terminal to the stud on the alternator. This should excite the alternator when running and the sense tied to the stud on the alternator should detect power from the battery. OH, maybe #2 should be tied directly to the battery.
Since I am having to listen to you guys that means I don't know what I am doing. Maybe I should shut up and listen.

 

[old]

Ok think about it. The big post on the alternator has a wire that goes to the battery so that is why the wire from the #2 terminal goes to the big post same place electrically as it would be if you ran the wire to the battery, ya it could be done like your thinking but that means more wire and more wire can mean more problems from things like mice and tree limbs etc. Now as for the #1 going to the switch yes when you turn off the ignition switch you would turn off the alternator but you need that diode in the system or when you turn the switch off the excite side will back feed the ignition and that in turn will keep the engine running. And like I said you can tie into the ignition side of the switch by going to the coil which again saves wire

 

[old]

Yep an after market ignition switch with the A terminal you can get by with out the diode. You can also use a small light bulb, a on/off switch a ballast resistor, and a few others that I'll not go into.

 

[Jimps]

Brent,

It took me a while to wrap my brain around this too. If you have the wire to the coil and #1 wire terminal from the alternator wired to the same side of the ignition switch initially everything will work fine. The ignition switch when turned on which will send power down to the coil and #1 terminal on the alternator. Spin the starter and you should make your tractor run. However, once you turn off the ignition there will be a bit of residual power going back up the line from the #1 terminal since the tractor engine will still spin some while it is shutting down. Meanwhile it is still spinning the alternator which is sending power back up the through the #1 terminal back to the coil, which will cause the spark plugs to fire, which will keep the engine spinning, which will cause it turn the alternator, which will keep sending power back to the coil, causing you to freak out 'cause the tractor is still running and will not shut off! Whew!

If you use a diode as Old suggested, you will not have this problem. A diode, by design, only allows power to flow in one direction, in this case from battery/ignition switch to #1 terminal. Kinda like those turnstiles on the MARTA I saw once (I don't go up to the other part of GA much), they only allow you to go one way.

My setup is a bit unique, but serves the same purpose: cut all power from the coil when turning off the tractor, including any residual power backfeeding from the alternator. Others may have a better explanation, but this works for me!

Jimps in GA.

 

[Brent 41 9N]

Thanks guys,
You both explained it very well. I appreciate your patience. To be as smart as I am(Ha!Ha!) you would think this be a simple task. Now I understand and should be able to correct my problem. That may be why it was purchased for only $2000.00 Including a new finishing mower. The tractor looks and runs great, but with a few minor issues like this. All you guys (whether or not always right) have been a great help on many of my problems. I enjoy this forum - some nights just read, others, many questions.
Thanks again,

 

[Bob]

You do NOT have a "single post Delco-Remy".

The "one-wire" 10SI or 12SI alternators are NOT Delco Remys, but actually aftermarket ABOMINATIONS assembled inside an Delco "case" by annoying outfits NOT associated with Delco Remy.

 

[DanH01]

Brent

If all of this jumpering stuff doesn"t help you might want to take your Alt. down to your local auto electrical shop to have it checked out. I have the single wire setup also. My alt. started to put out a lot of current. Checked it once and it was between 17 and 18 volts. Infact it started to boil the battery. So I took it to a shop and it did have an internal problem. I believe that the guy called it a burnt out rectifier. I"m no Auto electrician and don"t know what that is. But what I do know is the guy replaced what was needed ($25) and its been working fine ever since with the same single wire setup. Just remember what a couple of posters in the other thread told ya. With the single wire setup once the tractor starts up it won't start charging untill you go above a certain RPM. At this time I can't remember what that is (brain farts) but you can watch it happen on your Amp gauge. About the most you're Alt should put out is abt. 14-15 volts while charging. Then when your Bat. is back to snuff then the Alt. output should go back to 12 volts.