Alternator w/tach drive conversion

[Dpierce]

I m looking to put my ford 5000 missing instrument panel back to working order. It has had the generator replaced with a ac Delco alternator doing away with the proof meter. The original instrument panel has been replaced by individual automotive style gauges temp, amp meter and oil pressure. I know the alternator will need replaced with one that has the tach drive on it but can t find pictures of the instrument panel for comparison. My model is a 5200 row crop and the dash area is quite different than a typical 5000 model. Wasn t sure if instrument panels are the same. Also. Was wondering if the oil pressure gauge would be electric or mechanical. Just trying to get a idea of what all will be needed to get the instrument panel back to working order. Looks like most of the factory wiring has been removed.

 

[Ultradog MN]

What year is your tractor?
I'm not sure when they changed the
blocks but the newer Thousand Series
have like a freeze plug under the oil
filter. Older ones have a screw in plug
there. If you have the newer style block
here is what I would do. Order a new
type oil pump drive gear. The new type
has a small square hole in the top to
drive the tach. You just pull the old
one out and drop the new one in. Then
buy the 36/46/5600 style tach drive and
tach cluster which turns opposite
direction from the Thousand Series.
Photo shows the X600 oil pump drive gear
and tach drive that replaces the soft
plug. I have heard the tach drive that
is on the back of the replacement
alternator is not very accurate but I
have not used one of those. This way you
could just continue using the alternator
you already have.
I have done this on 3 or 4 of the
2/3/4000 tractors and it worked good.
Probably a bit cheaper than a new
alternator with tach drive too.

 

[Destroked 450]

If the tractor was built after April 71 I'd do the conversion UD has posted.
I've converted 3 of my tractors to alternators, 2 with the tach drive conversion, 1 with the oil pump drive conversion.
The tachs with the alternator drive are fast by 3-400 rpm, at pto speed the tachs show 2100-2300 rpm but the engine is only turning 18-1900 rpm.
I have everything to convert one of the tractors to oil pump driven tach but the other is a early model that can not be converted.

That 5200 should make 540 pto speed at 1900 rpm, it also uses the same dash cluster as a standard all purpose model. The factory dash does not have a oil pressure gauge, instead it has a warning light.

I used a digital tach on the pto to get 540 pto rpm's and then used a marker on the cluster glass to show where the needle was.
Although the tach shows high rpm's I know the engine isn't turning that fast.

 

[Dpierce]

My 5000 is a 68 made in October according to the numbers. It has
the screw in plugs under the oil filter and block. Guessing this means
the alternator gear drive is the way I will have to go. It does look like
the oil pump drive would work better if it could be used

 

[Destroked 450]

Oil pump drive is better but you can't use it with that block.
Can't get the o-ring to seal in the threads.

 

[Dpierce]

How low does the oil pressure get before the indicator light comes
on? Mine carries around 20lb at idle and 40-50 around half throttle.
It?s been my experience that once a warning light comes on it?s
usually to little to late and the damage is already done.

 

[brt963]

UD or Destroked,

I have a later block 3 cylinder 4000 I would like to change the tach drive to an oil pump drive as well. I have never been clear if the oil and water temperature senders I have now will work with a 4600 instrument panel. Having to drill and tap the existing sending unit holes decreases the attractiveness of the change to me.

Thank you

 

[Destroked 450]

(quoted from post at 18:15:03 08/17/19) How low does the oil pressure get before the indicator light comes
on? Mine carries around 20lb at idle and 40-50 around half throttle.
It?s been my experience that once a warning light comes on it?s
usually to little to late and the damage is already done.

The oil pressure warning light comes on when pressure is below 5-10 psi, so yes when the light comes and stays on you've got problems and need to shut it down.
Normally these tractors have every few issues with low oil pressure, having been around and worked with these tractors for over 40 years I've only seen 2 with low oil pressure problems.

Side Note: Some are not aware that the Sims inj pump like on your tractor has it's own oil reservoir.
Have you been checking the oil level in the pump and changed to oil each time you changed the engine oil?

 

[Destroked 450]

The oil sending unit doesn't have to be changed, temp sender does.
When I converted my 4000 back in 2000 there was a conversion sending unit for the temp that fit the smaller threads of the older models but I haven't been able to find a reference or part number for that sender in some time.
I suspect it could be the same sending unit used in Ford cars and pickups in the 60's and early 70's but haven't tried one yet.
One could install the later sender in the intake manifold water port and reroute the wire to that location.

 

[sotxbill]

(quoted from post at 08:28:30 08/17/19) I m looking to put my ford 5000 missing instrument panel back to working order. It has had the generator replaced with a ac Delco alternator doing away with the proof meter. The original instrument panel has been replaced by individual automotive style gauges temp, amp meter and oil pressure. I know the alternator will need replaced with one that has the tach drive on it but can t find pictures of the instrument panel for comparison. My model is a 5200 row crop and the dash area is quite different than a typical 5000 model. Wasn t sure if instrument panels are the same. Also. Was wondering if the oil pressure gauge would be electric or mechanical. Just trying to get a idea of what all will be needed to get the instrument panel back to working order. Looks like most of the factory wiring has been removed.

One of those had a tach drive off the back of the injector pump with a reverser gear on the drive.... I cant remember which one though.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I think? you could just change the
voltage stabilizer - little box on the
back of the cluster - to the old style.
I always did the conversion when I had
the tractor half torn apart anyway so
drilling and tapping the hole in the
front of the head wasn't a big deal.
Destroked's idea is a good one too. Put
the sender in the intake manifold. Both
the gas and diesel manifolds have a plug
back by #3 cylinder.

 

[Destroked 450]

7000 tach drives off of the back of the Sims injection pump, not sure about 5000 models.
My 66 5000 with Sims pump had generator drive, my 74 5000 has Cav pump and generator driven tach.
Parts book list a Mexico 5100 with inj pump driven tach but don't know anything about that model.

 

[Dpierce]

I haven?t checked the injector pump this year but I did check and
change it last summer. It wasn?t empty then but it was very washed
down with diesel. This tractor gets minimal use. Last year I got it
running and just used it to haul wood. This year pretty much the
same except I used it to pull a 7? bushhog to mow about 10 acres or
so. If I remember right when I changed the injector pump oil I used
15-40 to fill it back up.

 

[Destroked 450]

That's good, just making sure you knew about it.

 

[brt963]

Thank you both

 

[Dpierce]

Thanks for everyone?s input. This is a far from perfect tractor however
I like to try to keep things like they are supposed to have been and in
working order if it?s feasible. All the original sending units have been
removed and replaced. The temp looks like a thermocouple and the
oil pressure has been converted to a compression fittings with a
copper tube. If it wasn?t for wanting the proof meter, rpms and the
factory look I probably wouldn?t mess with it. I attached a picture of
the injector pump it doesn?t appear to have a gear drive provision on
it.

 

[Cowcatcher65]

What year is your tractor?
I'm not sure when they changed the
blocks but the newer Thousand Series
have like a freeze plug under the oil
filter. Older ones have a screw in plug
there. If you have the newer style block
here is what I would do. Order a new
type oil pump drive gear. The new type
has a small square hole in the top to
drive the tach. You just pull the old
one out and drop the new one in. Then
buy the 36/46/5600 style tach drive and
tach cluster which turns opposite
direction from the Thousand Series.
Photo shows the X600 oil pump drive gear
and tach drive that replaces the soft
plug. I have heard the tach drive that
is on the back of the replacement
alternator is not very accurate but I
have not used one of those. This way you
could just continue using the alternator
you already have.
I have done this on 3 or 4 of the
2/3/4000 tractors and it worked good.
Probably a bit cheaper than a new
alternator with tach drive too.

what is a x600 and do you have part number for tach drive? I have a 1972 ford 2000 and tach is showing a 1000 at idle. any help appreciated

 

[Sean in PA]

what is a x600 and do you have part number for tach drive? I have a 1972 ford 2000 and tach is showing a 1000 at idle. any help appreciated

x600 means anything in the 2600/3600/4600/5600 series. You should start your own new thread for your question. This thread is over 5 years old.