Another Fuel Tank Question

[allenlane]

I've got a nasty fuel tank due to tractor living outdoors in a humid environment with a couple gallons of E85 gas in it for many years. It had lot's of separated water and rust in the tank. From searches here, a common problem. Lot's of solutions from vinegar, Evaporust, Soda, etc. to clean the rust out. The one that looked the most intriguing to me was using muriatic acid (mix 1:4 with water) (saw a couple videos on youtube) and throw in some bolts/nuts to agitate rust. Let sit overnight, drain, neutralize the acid with water and baking soda then drain, and fill with fresh gasoline and fuel stabilizer. Has anyone had a bad experience with muriatic acid?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

After all that work and expense, a new tank
at about $165 sounds like a deal.

 

[Royse]

I clean my concrete with muriatic acid. Works good.
Rusty metal tends to keep rusting.
And, there are baffles in that tank that prevent nuts
and bolts from getting everywhere to clean it out.
Your time is worth something too.
Here on [b:6d85183624]YT[/b:6d85183624], a new tank is only $116. Plus shipping of course.

 

[Jim in Western MI]

One thing that I believe would be helpful (has worked for me for the last 25 years anyway) is to open the valve fully when used unless you're plowing some field or mowing far away from your fuel source. This pulls from the bottom of the tank, and any water or separated alcohol is pulled on through the system..., not being allowed to accumulate as it does when you leave the two turns position; then when you need the reserve, you have a higher proportion of non-gasoline material (perhaps, depending on the quality of the fuel and the temperature/humidity common for your area, and how often you keep the tank full. I got this from my flying days when you always kept the tank full to prevent humid air entry through the vents, and you drained a few ounces of fuel before any flight It always amazed me how much liquid water could accumulate in tanks from just humidity in the air; and that was before they started putting alcohol in gasoline, which is hydrophilic. Wish they would stop that!

 

[ASEguy]

I prefer to answer the questions of the individual, but in this case replacing the tank is the best answer in my opinion. I didn't replace the tank on my Allis and I have fought fuel related drivability issues since

 

[Hobo,NC]

You can fight a contaminated fuel system till ell freezes over it will always WIN ... Fuel tanks are built with a special coating on the metal once removed are worn out what every you do to remove the rust leaves no protection again rust returning. You will get to fight that battle again you can bank on that.

To save the tank you can clean and line with something like Por-15 its great stuff when the proper prep is performed when the prep is haftarssed you will get a haftarse job and not be happy.

For a one off onetime be done with it deal a new tank is inviting it will be a once in a lifetime event... "Don't forget about the fuel line they rust from the inside"

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=244783&highlight=

 

[showcrop]

2X what Hobo says. Don't even think of using muriatic. It is fast at removing rust but does not help long term. Phosphoric, while slower, will give you an iron phosphate protective coating.

 

[R Geiger]

I cleaned one 6 years or so ago and it is still going strong. Cleaned with acid then coated the inside. If I needed to replace one today, I would get a new one. It was a lot of work and the cleaning and lining kit were not cheap, if I remember right it was about the same price as buying a new one, but a lot more labor.

 

[Tall T]

Some of this rap may be useful to you.

On a gas tank I recently cleaned out, I used high pressure water in through the sender hole (I know you don't have that hole) and out through the filler pipe and visa versa but did that over top of a huge wash tub to collect the seriously contaminated water. After letting it thoroughly dry I put my copper pipe extension on a vacuum cleaner and sucked out all the rust flakes. Rocking the tank back and forth brought the flakes into the center section through corner accesses in the baffles, so I could then suck them out.

Beyond that, I have two sediment bowls each with brass screens
and then a typical line filter before the carb. So whatever future rust manages to exit the tank will not make it to the carb.

Never had dirty fuel carb problems in the 37 years I've owned that truck.

When I do the Jubilee tank, I think I'll remove the in-tank screen and just make sure I have excellent filtration beyond the tank.
This is what the glass bowl filter at the gas tank stopped after ten years of driving. I had the flow entering the center screen first and it worked fine but now I have the fuel entering the bowl first. So in the screen you can see what the screen stopped and in the glass what managed to get through the screen.

 

[Colin King]

I'm going to chime in for a new tank, too. An old tank isn't worth the fight.
Colin, MN

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 15:29:47 11/29/17) I'm going to chime in for a new tank, too. An old tank isn't worth the fight.
Colin, MN

Colin; Haven't seen you on here in a few months. Got everything put to bed for the winter? How is that diesel doing after all the work?

Colin

 

[howdy1960]

Another vote for a new tank.
After fighting rust issues for 3 years I decided against the labor intensive route.
I had to save for it but haven't had any issues in 2 years with it.
Was worth giving up that cup of fake cappuccino 4 of 5 days a week for a few months.
Side note was I lost 5 lbs even ~grinz~

 

[allenlane]

Got the old rusty fuel tank off today. May have found the final nail in the coffin. It turns out a PO repaired a hole with a small screw and brazed around it for a seal. Likely many more thin sections, so just deferring the inevitable.

 

[allenlane]

Guys take care of your fuel tanks. Since I'm going to replace this tank, I was curious what muriatic acid would do. It seemed to work great for a fella on youtube that cleaned up a motorcycle tank. He even had one of those tube cameras so we could see how clean it was. Anyway I plugged the bottom, poured in a couple quarts of muriatic acid, then put the lid on and sloshed it around top bottom and sides. I then filled the tank up with water to dilute the acid and let it sit all day. After 6 hours or so of cooking, opened the lid and emptied into a 5 gallon bucket. The water was black as coffee. When the tank was empty I had 2 " of I guess rusty flakes in the 5 gal bucket. You guys were right that would have not been worth the fight.

 

[Dollar Bill]

I was curious what muriatic acid would do.

Muriatic Acid is great a product for concrete removal and pool care.

There is no sound reason for using Muriatic Acid (HCI) to remove rust from steel. HCl will bind to the steel on a molecular level and continue to rust forever. No neutralization can remove these ions other than electrolysis.

 

[allenlane]

Another opinion


https://sciencing.com/clean-rusty-steel-muriatic-acid-8319296.html

I had muriatic handy from the pool. I use phosphoric to convert rust on welding or projects where I can get to the rust with an abrasive or media blasting, and then quickly coat with primer/paint.

For this little experiment, I'm going to neutralize the muriatic with baking soda (same thing I use on batteries), let dry then slosh around some phosphoric in there in an attempt to convert and just see what happens after several months. TO BE CLEAR, I AM NOT RECOMMENDING ANY OF THESE PROCEDURES. LOT'S OF VIDEOS AND INFO ON THE WEB. The headline is to take care of your tanks so they don't get in this condition.

 

[allenlane]

Another opinion

https://sciencing.com/clean-rusty-steel-muriatic-acid-8319296.html

I use muriatic for the pool and had it handy. I use phosphoric to convert rust when I can get to it with an abrasive or media blast, then quickly neutralize, and prime/paint. TO BE CLEAR I AM NOT RECOMMENDING ANY OF THESE PROCEDURES. The headline is to take care of your tank and not let it get in this condition.