Another pole barn ?

[Mark-Ia]

Contemplating putting up a 40x60 pole barn. Half will be cold storage, the other half shop area. Would you prefer a 40' deep and 30 wide, or 30' deep and 40' wide.

 

[DeltaRed]

40 deep

 

[Bob Bancroft]

Contemplating putting up a 40x60 pole barn. Half will be cold storage, the other half shop area. Would you prefer a 40' deep and 30 wide, or 30' deep and 40' wide.

I prefer depth. Whether it's a truck/trailer or a tractor and implement, having enough depth to drive in the assembly is beneficial.

 

[john in la]

Usually the doors go on the short side because this wall is not load bearing so it allows for different post spacing without headers for the doors.

 

[jm.]

Contemplating putting up a 40x60 pole barn. Half will be cold storage, the other half shop area. Would you prefer a 40' deep and 30 wide, or 30' deep and 40' wide.

quite a bit cheaper to go 30 by 40 the wide trusses cost mor, however the cheapest squar foo ti always as close to square as one can get, same walls that go down the sides of the 30 could go down the 40 so 40x40 but your best bet is 30 x 40 once one goes wider than 30 ft cost begins to go up

 

[wp6529]

Taller is cheaper than deeper. Deeper is cheaper than wider. All are more than my budget

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Depends on access, orientation, and future expansion.

At one point, I wanted to replace the falling-down "shop" building at the home farm. It turned out 40' wide x 32' long was far less expensive than 32' wide by 40' long, due to not needing to engineer and build in the headers for doors along the side. Headers add a LOT to the cost, apparently.

The downside was it limited expandability because the building is backed up against the setback from the property line. I'd be limited to a lean-to off one side, about 16' maximum before it got too low to park anything under.

 

[paul]

Doors on the ends, narrower and longer is usually much cheaper. Perhaps allowing for a longer building. Doors in the sidewalks are miserable, costly, lower, snow piles up outside.

Figure out how long whatever it is you work on is. Tractor and baler? Or what? Walk around the machine. Flip the hood or chute or what have you open. Real quick 30 foot deep doesn’t give you room to walk around or work on anything.

But we all have a budget, I understand that, don’t need the 120 foot square monster shops I see on the internet either.

 

[jwal10]

We don't have to worry about snow so 2 doors under eaves on the front 16'h E side. Started as a 30'x60'x16' hay shed with a 20'x60'x 10' eave lean-to added. N Bay is 24'x50' with a gable to raise to 16' with a 20w'x14h' door under W gable end. Middle bay is 16'x50' with a 12'w door. Other end 10'x50' bay, front to back is office, parts room and small clean room with 8' ceiling with open storage above. 50'x50' shop space without paying for 50' trusses. Added a 12'x50'x8'h lean-to on north side for pickup, storage and compressor room....James

 

[Ray,IN]

I must also build a new pole barn. In Jan. 2 dead trees blew down onto my old 38'X48' one during a storm. My insurance co. paid the replacement cost - deprecation., so that will help.

 

[bc]

Cold storage for what, I wonder? Living around hot weather, I'd want the shop in cold storage.

 

[Farmall m farmer]

Deeper is better than wider

 

[urbancase]

I agree deep, 30 years ago when I put mine up 45 deep was plenty, same as jib crane figured 1 ton was enough. Now with all shop tools I have and shelves on the sides I don’t have enough room to drive 2388 combine with a 1063 head and close the door. I myself are plane to add a 30 foot by 45 to the side for more room, and the going to be the winter shop with heated floor.

 

[Mark-Ia]

Cold storage for what, I wonder? Living around hot weather, I'd want the shop in cold storage.

"cold storage" , Just your typical machine shed area used for storing machinery when not in use

 

[Mobuck]

I replaced a burnt building with 36x48x14' eave height due to size of area and budget. 14' tall x16' wide slider in end wall. Side wall poles 8'OC and end wall 9' OC is fairly common. Side wall roll up garage doors and couple of walk-in doors added some extra poles but not much cost.
Builder helped determine most cost effective placement vs strength.

 

[Texasmark]

quite a bit cheaper to go 30 by 40 the wide trusses cost mor, however the cheapest squar foo ti always as close to square as one can get, same walls that go down the sides of the 30 could go down the 40 so 40x40 but your best bet is 30 x 40 once one goes wider than 30 ft cost begins to go up

My shop is 30x50 with a 10' wide door at the end and side where there is a 15' extension (2x8 singles on 10' spacings) of the roof along the full 50'. I thought I'd be moving equipment back and forth in and out of the shed to the shop and all and none of that happened for several reasons, one is topography on that side of the shop.

The truss supporting headers are paired 2x6s, one on each side of the 5x5 square treated posts on 10' centers. The doors are halves of the openings and there is no extra support for the door spans. My trusses are 3/12 pitched with 2x6 tops and bottoms with one W in 2x4s A real simple engineered truss.

On cost vs design, my 36' spaned house trusses are from another mfgr. engineered double Ws all 2x4s on 2' centers. Had sheetrock and 6" of insulation supported since 1979 and still good to go. Don't know the cost of either.