Another question regarding remotes

[Randy-IA]

Well, the hydraulic system as a whole. In my last post I said I was adjusting some things, that was the TPH speed and the remote speeds. As it turns out they were all already turned out to the max, but everything still works a bit to slow for my liking.

So the question is, and I don't have any, zero, nada, zip, testing equipment for hydraulics, can this slow speed be a result of a stuck or sticking priority valve, or one of the others in the combo block?

Everything works; steering, brakes, PTO, both extremely hard to move remote valves, and the TPH. They aren't snail slow, but not fast enough to lift the moco cutting head up before I get to the end of the row and cut into the last row causing a clog when I am finishing up the last rows in the center. I only mow at 3-1/2MPH or below so my ground speed isn't phenomenal. Maybe I'm expecting too much from it?

I believe there's a possibility the cylinder on my mower could also be at fault. They are old IH self cancelling cylinders. I've never taken them apart to reseal them or make the self cancel part work correctly.

Any other ideas?

 

[2-strokeDD]

The possibility of it being something in the combo block is small unless you were having a heating problem. You can take the priority valve out and check it for bad o-rings or sticking it is possible that it
is stuck to the steering side of priority thus restricting the flow to the remotes. Do you have the screw that is next to the remote valves screwed all the way out? Not the ones on the valves but the one to
the inside of them. You need a 3000psi gauge and plug it into a remote then activate that remote and see what the pressure is. It should be between 2000 and 2200 psi. If it is low you can change it by turning
in the compensator valve screw.

 

[J. Schwiebert]

I would also find the handles would not return to neutral on some units because of rust on the pivot shaft. I repaired a few of them by adding a grease fitting.

 

[Randy-IA]

(quoted from post at 20:13:06 06/10/20) The possibility of it being something in the combo block is small unless you were having a heating problem. You can take the priority valve out and check it for bad o-rings or sticking it is possible that it
is stuck to the steering side of priority thus restricting the flow to the remotes. Do you have the screw that is next to the remote valves screwed all the way out? Not the ones on the valves but the one to
the inside of them. You need a 3000psi gauge and plug it into a remote then activate that remote and see what the pressure is. It should be between 2000 and 2200 psi. If it is low you can change it by turning
in the compensator valve screw.

A number of years ago the pump quit and I had to buy a salvage unit. I've never had the temp light come on and I know it works. I still have the original pump.

Nevertheless, I operate it barefooted pretty often and I know I can't rest my bare feet on the tank for very long. It's uncomfortable but I don't think it would burn my feet. I really need a non-contact thermometer. That's after a few hours though, like mowing hay at pto speed on a hot day.

I really don't know if it's gone over 200.

 

[Randy-IA]

(quoted from post at 20:39:39 06/10/20) I would also find the handles would not return to neutral on some units because of rust on the pivot shaft. I repaired a few of them by adding a grease fitting.

That is another thing I wasn't sure of. My parts book may or may not be right in this respect. I wasn't sure if the pivot shaft was removable without taking the outer end cap off the remotes. it shows that there is a pin on the inner end of the shaft.

I sprayed them good with penetrant, blew them out, sprayed them again, worked them to both stops a number of times and blew them out again, and did this a number of times. I cleaned the end of the linkages up with brake clean and blew all the crud out of that area. It didn't seem to do any good. If that shaft comes out by itself I'd like to try that. I have to cut hay before I'll have time to work on the remotes though.

I should be getting the o-rings today (Thursday) if they have them in stock so I can swap the new to me remotes in. Maybe I'll pick up the bushings for those levers too if they have them.

 

[Mitch Poindexter]

Couple of comments here. You mention that you have adjusted both restrictor valves out all the way. Are you sure that you adjusted the remote valve restrictor? Or is it possible that you only adjusted the 3pt lift reistrictor valves (raise and lower)? The remote valve restrictor is located over by the remote valves just on the inside of them. If you have, then your pump is probably bad.

Second, your remotes are hard to move because someone has likely run the machine for years without the plug on the pressure detent end cap. The detent balls rust in place on the retainer and no amount of penetrating oil will fix this problem. Rebuilding these is not hard, it just requires some attention to detail. If you are using the agcoparts book as your parts manual, then forget looking at the 1755 manual for help on the remotes, its too hard to read. Open the 2-85 manual and go to page 214, its tons better. Click the print button at the top left, go down to Open Image and List and click the PDF button. This pulls up a full page picture of the pressure detent valve and the parts list.

White produced an excellent hydraulic manual called Hydraulics & Three-Point Hitch Technical Service Manual. You can get it in 2-85/2-105 verions, or 2-135/2-155 versions, as well as others. These manuals can easily be found online and give excellent step by step instructions for rebuilding the Oliver 55 series and later White remote valves. This is how I taught myself to rebuild them, read and follow those directions exactly and you are good to go. I've rebuilt 18 of these this spring to refresh some of our tractors and am more than happy to help you with any questions.

 

[J. Schwiebert]

Randy: send me an e=mail and include your phone number. My e-mail should be open. J.

 

[Randy-IA]

(reply to post at 05:51:59 06/11/20)

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/IEIAAOSwHnFV1dxE/s-l1600.jpg[/img]

 

[Randy-IA]

(quoted from post at 06:41:13 06/11/20) Randy: send me an e=mail and include your phone number. My e-mail should be open. J.

Hi John, Check your email, however, I've got so many irons in the fire my tractor is fairly low on the list. I don't have a timeline for working on it.

I just got called back to work and I have to cut hay this weekend also. The trouble with that is my job is done primarily on weekends (Thursday, Friday, and Saturday), mostly late afternoons through to the early morning hours, so I sleep until noon or later.

 

[Mitch Poindexter]

That is the one, worth its weight in gold IMO if you need to work on the hydraulics on a late 55 series and/or White. I hear you on the o-ring costs, the oringstore online is my go to for those, plus you can get the backup rings from them also.

If you decide to rebuild the remotes yourself, check your poppets closely when you take them out. New poppets are what cause the remote rebuild kits to be a little pricey. I found that many of the used poppets were not destroyed (some definitely were), but needed resurfacing to seat properly again. A little lathe work, if you have access to one, goes a long way towards making these remotes work correctly again without spending much money.

 

[Randy-IA]

Sorry for the slow reply Mitch.
I'll get that manual ordered today then. I realized I have no clue on which side of the o-rings the backup washers go on. Then again, they might go inside the o-ring to keep pressure and flow from dislodging them, hydraulics is something I never dealt with much in the construction company I worked for, we always had a pro come work on them, or we took the work to them.

That o-ring store for now is a little over my head. However, I will presume that the o-rings I just got from Agco are Buna-N? I can't see them getting too complicated with the compounds they prescribe. Cheaper is better right? At least from a minimum workable standard most manufacturers would take.

Thanks for all the help, I'm sure to be back next week after the hay is done and I actually start to change those valves out. Hopefully that manual will be here by then.