anti freeze

No it won't but the question you should be asking is, "When should old anti-freeze be discarded?". Old anti-freeze loses its chemical properties and becomes acidic and causes major problems inside the cooling system of any engine. If it's over a couple years old get rid of it. Why take the chance? Just get rid of it and put new stuff in your gas engine.
 
donjdm,

I have tested regular green antifreeze for over two decades. I witnessed, from chemical analysis, that green antifreexe becomes un-wise to keep after about eight years.

D.
 


Although it often seems that everything is or becomes acidic, what the manufacturers say is that antifreeze looses its anti-corrosion effectiveness after some age. I am willing to believe that it is eight years as Dennis Minn said.
 
It is quite straightforward if you are interested in the chemistry and can do some basic math. Just go buy one of the test strip kits. They are available from ebay, or large automotive warehouses. You can purchase additives to adjust every deviation from ideal chemistry. The Ethylene Glycol doesn't wear out, though it could have been diluted from water being added. If you are really looking at using it in a system old enough to need water pump lubricant (pre-mechanical seal or packing style) then buy a small bottle of water pump lube. One thing that particularly inexpensive antifreezes always seem loaded up on are silicates. You don't really need them, but they add it to stop small leaks. It all depends on whether you want to do the work. jt
 
Now is this just on the shelf in a bottle or in an engine with several heating and cooling cycles ?
 
Mike M,

Good question.

The antifreeze I have tested annually is in diesel engine generator sets. Some two stroke, some 4 stroke. All use the green stuff, mixed proper with demineralized water (not distilled). Block heaters on all, many hours of sitting, many hours of operation. So far, almost to the day, the antifreeze required swapout, ( not chemical additive) around 8 years.

D.
 
Are you testing for the DCA / SCA levels ? Or what are you testing ? This is what is added to help prevent sleeve cavitation. You can add it as needed and not totally replace the antifreeze. Most new antifreeze you have to add it in from the start too.
 
(quoted from post at 11:48:50 04/01/20) Are you testing for the DCA / SCA levels ? Or what are you testing ? This is what is added to help prevent sleeve cavitation. You can add it as needed and not totally replace the antifreeze. Most new antifreeze you have to add it in from the start too.

Mike I am pretty sure that most anti-freeze today is formulated with an anti-corrosion package adequate to prevent cavitation. Most diesels have a silicone coating on the interior of the water jacket that provides protection superior to that provided by anti-freeze anyway.
 
For what it's worth...
I am a diesel mechanic by trade, we do anything from small three cylinder engines up to 16, 20 and 24 cylinder units from practically all manufacturers. Cummins, Cat, Detroit two and four strokes, MTU, Mercedes, EMD and others. Most engine failures I see are NOT caused by lube oil related failures, but rather cooling system problems. A big part of cooling system failure is old, improper, or ill maintained coolant, no or weak SCA additives, etc. A wet sleeve diesel can and will perforate the liners in as little as 1000 hours with no SCA in the system, seen it several times from different manufacturers.

Please guys, keep that coolant maintained and changed regularly. As far as SCA additives, keep those coolant filters changed, a "pre-charged" coolant filter replenishes the SCA which are "used up" over time. Also don't guess, test with proper test strips for your coolant type and either add liquid SCA or change the coolant filter with one that has more or less additive as necessary, keeping in mind too much SCA will cause water pump seal leaks.

I also know a lot of people hate the 50/50 premixed coolant because they think they are buying half water...good premixed coolant from Fleetguard, Deere and others cost more for the maker to treat the water in it than the concentrated coolant cost them. I firmly believe by the time you buy the concentrate, SCA, and distilled water and mix it the 50/50 is cheap by comparison.

Just some ramblings from a guy that's seen it, take it for what it's worth.
 
You also have to look close at the expiration dates on the test strips ! I've tried to buy some in the past and they were already expired so I didn't buy them. A fellow told me to watch them close as he had problems from out dated test strips giving false readings.
 
So, If you break all this down to the idiot level.........My truck is a 2012. 8 years old. Should the coolant be changed? Thanks Greg
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top