Can someone please educate me on antifreeze. They have Asian, European and American, OR some that says its good for anything, even from the same manufacturer.
WHY
 
Antifreeze is a really deep rabbit hole, far deeper even than engine oils. I had the misfortune of having to dive down that rabbit hole last week, so I'll try to pass on a few tidbits that I picked up.

Some of the different formulations are based on the differences in water quality (such as pH, trace minerals, etc.) in different parts of the world. The more important factor though, is how engines are built, and what materials were used in them. Heat conductivity, corrosion protection, anti-cavitation additives, etc. are all factors. The design of some engines require that certain elements/minerals not be present in the coolant, such as silicates or nitrites. I can't really get into much more detail, as I don't really know how to explain it, plus my own grasp on the details is limited.

My own research had to do with repeat leaks around water pump flanges on our Arrow engines at work. Turns out, some coolants contain a corrosion inhibitor by the name 2-EHA, which has a tendency to eat silicone. Time to switch coolant or quit using silicone for sealing water pump housings.

Personally, I run Recochem Mixed Fleet in everything I own. It's what it's meant for, and is safe for use in everything, from my vehicles up to my heavy diesels. A bit more expensive, but keeps it simple.
 
Component compatibility. Engineers from the manufacturers use materials that range from high alloy aluminum, to ABS plastic, with mild steel and cast iron in the mix. They decide what should be used to assure least corrosion and protection. They don't discuss the issues with others for fear of loss of intellectual property (which may have happened already. They then make up their own formula. Within warranty, I would be sure to use what they indicate. Universal afterwards. Jim's opinion.
 
Universal antifreeze is generally good enough for anything if you change it often enough unless you need something special for a diesel, I'm thinking.
 
On the newer stuff, aluminum components, and especially diesels, I try to go with the factory recommendation.

If it's time for a change, or you don't know what's in it, best drain it, flush, and start over.

Old gas tractors don't care, the green will work or universal.

I write what I put in somewhere under the hood or on the radiator so I, or anyone can see so they don't get mixed.
 
Heres my take on antifreeze. The difference is all in the anti corrosion additives of the mix. As Lyndon-AB noted, some of the additives can attack the seal materials, Im talking about you Dexcool. Some of these additives dont play well together, making Jello in your cooling system if mixed. The hard parts of your engine dont really care what anti corrosion additives you use, except for diesels that need the added cavitation protection.

Universal green anti freeze is just ethylene glycol and water. No anti corrosion additives. You can add it to top off any other type, but a complete fill does not provide the corrosion protection you need. The silicates and nitrates found in classic antifreeze are frowned upon for environmental reasons, so the newer OAT (organic acid tech) formulations were developed.

So in simple terms, dont use Dexcool in anything not designed for it. And drain and flush any cooling systems before adding a different fully formulated anti freeze.

I use JD Coolgard in everything here. Its a high quality product, good for both gas and diesel, and is convenient as the dealer is three miles away, and they will fill my jugs from bulk at a reasonable price. Cant use the tap water here in a cooling system, and its 50 miles if I want to buy distilled water, so i use the premixed, and get it done with.
 


As Lyndon posted water is a huge factor. If you have soft water you need to be sure that your antifreeze has a good corrosion inhibitor package, or get the premixed.
 
Since I don't have any real new equipment I just use the old green stuff in everything for simplicity. When I bought the last new road truck they were just starting to come out with that new fancy extended life crap and had gasket trouble with it. 20 years plus with the old green stuff and no gasket failures. I guess I'll stay there.
 
(quoted from post at 09:09:09 11/08/21) Can someone please educate me on antifreeze. They have Asian, European and American, OR some that says its good for anything, even from the same manufacturer.
WHY

Because they can.

Because it is not in a manufacturer's best interest financially to be compatible with everyone else.

Because of arrogance, in that manufacturers firmly believe that they can build a better mousetrap than everyone else.

Because they can then take that and spin it as a huge advantage over the competition when marketing to the consumer.
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:13 11/09/21)
(quoted from post at 09:09:09 11/08/21) Can someone please educate me on antifreeze. They have Asian, European and American, OR some that says its good for anything, even from the same manufacturer.
WHY

Because they can.

Because it is not in a manufacturer's best interest financially to be compatible with everyone else.

Because of arrogance, in that manufacturers firmly believe that they can build a better mousetrap than everyone else.


Because they can then take that and spin it as a huge advantage over the competition when marketing to the consumer.


Barnyard you are right!!! and that is why almost everything we have keeps getting better. It is called progress.
 
Universal green anti freeze is just ethylene glycol and water. No anti corrosion additives. You can add it to top off any other type, but a complete fill does not provide the corrosion protection you need.
Baloney.
 

Jello effect I have never seen that... BTW I have seen what dexcool doses over time and its not from a mix of different coolant are water... What ever it was you don't see it happen to newer cars in the last 10 years are so... I remember air has something to do with it crystilizing.
 
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