Any air compressor experts here?

They have automatic drainers but they take 110 volt outlets
Conrader makes an auto drain valve that does not require electricity. Works off the unloader line. Harbor Freight at one time had a copy of this valve that worked with mixed success. I had started with one of those. When it gave up, I found that Conrader was the original, and installed one. Have had zero issues in about 5 years that it has been on the compressor.

Conrader drain valve
 
Thanks fellas!
I ran it again today for about 10 minutes.
Opened the windows and doors and blew the entire shop out.
Awesome!
It clattered a little on start up but not at all like yesterday.
Going to contact C- Aire and see if they have an owners manual.They are still in business.
Will change the oil in the pump and new air filter.
Am thinking I will put it into The Tombs (cold stall of the garage) It'll be a lot quieter in there
Will also modify the the water drain so you don't have to kneel on the floor to do it.
I wonder why my cousin never did that.
The whole tank gets warm when you run it for a while. Probably enough to melt any ice in the bottom if it's frozen.
I'm wondering about cold starts when its minus 20° in there. Maybe put a heat lamp next to the compressor and warm it up for a while before starting it when it's really cold?
I didn't really want this thing. Too big.
Cousin bugged me for a year to get it out of his garage.
I finally told him I would bring it home and evaluate it. If I don't like it I'll sell it and give him half.
He said whatever. Just get it out of here.
PS. Hobo, it is 2 stage.
When you change the oil be sure to use oil that says compressor oil or use a non-detergent oil. Generally 30W is used. Oil made for a car will create foam inside the crankcase.

The whole tank shouldn't be getting warm on a compressor that size. I don't think I would run it again until you change the oil. If it's still getting warm after the oil change there is probably something wrong with the pump.

My compressor drags quite a bit if the weather is below freezing. You may really have issues at -20. You may need to put a space heater on it prior to turning it on. I don't think a heat lamp is enough.
 
When you change the oil be sure to use oil that says compressor oil or use a non-detergent oil. Generally 30W is used. Oil made for a car will create foam inside the crankcase.

The whole tank shouldn't be getting warm on a compressor that size. I don't think I would run it again until you change the oil. If it's still getting warm after the oil change there is probably something wrong with the pump.

My compressor drags quite a bit if the weather is below freezing. You may really have issues at -20. You may need to put a space heater on it prior to turning it on. I don't think a heat lamp is enough.
Stephen, when you compress air it gets hot. Pumping hot air into a tank warms the tank.
 
On some compressors the oil level is full when the sight glass is completely filled
I worked one a Quincy QT5 that with oil in the middle of the sight glass the rod dipper barely touched the oil
Common compressor oil is 30W non detergent motor oil, in colder climates a thinner 20W or 10W oil may be needed
After setting for some time the knocking noise may have been carbon deposits that broke loose
A 90° fitting with a short pipe and ball valve is what I use to move the drain out to the side for easier drain access
Although battery powered tools has reduced air compressor usage I still like have my 5hp 2 stage compressor with 80 gallon tank
 
Never had any cold weather problems but a little milder down here. Always used a horizontal 5hp Craftsman until I wore it out. It was a pain to drain and even had to replace the petcock. My current one is like yours and the first thing I did, was to replace the petcock with a 1/8" ball valve, only way to go.
I replaced my drain petcock with a cable drain valve from trucks air tanks
 
Stephen, when you compress air it gets hot. Pumping hot air into a tank warms the tank.
I know that, but a tank that size shouldn't be getting hot enough to notice. I have one that has only a 10 gallon tank and you can keep it running most of the day before the tank would get hot. I've got another one with a 60 gallon tank which a line burst and it ran all night and never got hot. The motor and the pump got hot but not the tank.
 
How would a compressor get carbon deposits? There is no ignition or combustion taking place
There’s oil and any that gets past the rings can build up around the valve assemblies
On 2 stage pumps the high pressure side can build enough heat to dry the oil leaving hard deposits, it may no be actual burn carbon but it’s close
 
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