AR rear seals?

GregoryU

Member
I have a '49 unstyled AR that I'm working on. Took off the hood today to get at the fuel tank. The fill neck came loose so I have to get that resoldered. I'm also replacing the rear fenders. The left fender was really beat up so I bought 2 new fenders from Detwilers tractor parts. They look really nice! Hope they fit as well as they look! Both rear seals leak so I figured I'd replace them while I have them opened up with the wheels/fenders off. All I've got right now is an owners manual/parts manual for the AR and I have to admit I know nothing about replacing the seals. If I get a service manual for the AR will that will tell me how to replace the seals?

Got the left fender off and will fit the new fender to it tomorrow. Have to drill all the mounting holes but I don't think that's going to be too tough to do. Thanks for any advice. Greg
 
I have a '49 unstyled AR that I'm working on. Took off the hood today to get at the fuel tank. The fill neck came loose so I have to get that resoldered. I'm also replacing the rear fenders. The left fender was really beat up so I bought 2 new fenders from Detwilers tractor parts. They look really nice! Hope they fit as well as they look! Both rear seals leak so I figured I'd replace them while I have them opened up with the wheels/fenders off. All I've got right now is an owners manual/parts manual for the AR and I have to admit I know nothing about replacing the seals. If I get a service manual for the AR will that will tell me how to replace the seals?

Got the left fender off and will fit the new fender to it tomorrow. Have to drill all the mounting holes but I don't think that's going to be too tough to do. Thanks for any advice. Greg
You have to take off the back cover to get at the bull gears. The seals are next to the gears so the axles have to be pulled. I think you also need to pry out the grease seals on the outer axle ends. Ron MN
 
Yeah, that's what I wondered about once I got the wheel off and got to looking at it. I'm handy enough to be dangerous, but that might be a bit above my pay grade LOL! I seem to be running into that a lot lately. I've got a B that needs to be split and needs a new gasket between the block and the transmission. Starting to leak oil like a sieve! And an IH 350 that needs to be split and the remaining TA parts need to be removed. Looks like someone previously took all the exterior TA parts off and must have left the rest inside. Getting hard to change gears. Looks like I might be making friends with a mechanic this winter!!
 
Yeah, that's what I wondered about once I got the wheel off and got to looking at it. I'm handy enough to be dangerous, but that might be a bit above my pay grade LOL! I seem to be running into that a lot lately. I've got a B that needs to be split and needs a new gasket between the block and the transmission. Starting to leak oil like a sieve! And an IH 350 that needs to be split and the remaining TA parts need to be removed. Looks like someone previously took all the exterior TA parts off and must have left the rest inside. Getting hard to change gears. Looks like I might be making friends with a mechanic this winter!!
You can fix those leaking seals. Crib it up safely before you begin removing any parts. You probably already have cribbing material, but if not, make a visit to your local lumber yard and check out their pile of rejected 4X6's. They will be priced cheap or free and you can cut them into 2 foot lengths. Staple a rope loop to the end for a carry handle. A square crib under each side will make it safe to work on.
 
I think the IT manual covers the procedure. It’s not difficult, but involves some heavy and bulky parts. The comments about cribbing the rear are spot on. Years ago one of the magazines had a 1940’s dealerships article where one of the shop photos had an A or B undergoing this procedure on the left axle. The left side of the tractor was propped up with a sawhorse, which made me cringe.
 
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