Axle hubs and nuts

Sandon8N

Member
So. The saga continues. Tractor runs well, radiator was bad and I had them order another. So ,doing all I can so all I have to do is bolt In he radiator and go, I discovered the "8N hub flop." Yes, my poor buggy has fell victim.

I am ordering brakes, hubs, little junk here and there, etc.

He question; I have one 2" nut size and someone put on the smaller size on the other side. Preference? I was assuming the old big size due to contact surface. Either way, I am replacing with new. Will probably order tonight or tomorrow online from this website. Bearings and seals all seem fine for now. I will also slather the snot out of stuff with grey anti-seize on reassembly. I learned about just using new hardware and anti-seize working on Peterbilts and Catreplar equipment in the highlands of CO.

Which axle nuts to order? Gobs of a anti-seize ok?
 
WHY anti-seize? The tighter the hub and axle mate the better, and, if done right, you won't need to take things apart any time soon.
 
Why anti seize? Habit I guess. I put things together anticipating something else will need to be fixed someday. Like I said, the seals and bearings seem fine...... for now...... Again, just habit I guess.

I know I can generate 450 ft/lbs on the nut. Dry is better?
 
Sandon8n,You say, I put things together anticipating something else will need to be fixed someday.
Like seals that are leaking and should have been replaced when the hubs were off.
Replace your old hardened seals at the same time and save your self some work later on.
 
Antiseize so that when you check them annually you can be sure that the nut will turn and tighten against the hub of loose rather than just be stuck on the threads
 
(quoted from post at 22:07:23 07/30/16) Antiseize so that when you check them annually you can be sure that the nut will turn and tighten against the hub of loose rather than just be stuck on the threads

We should start a list of things that need done on an annual check up . Some parts never get removed until they are broken and then they are hard to get off . If done yearly it would be a quick simple task . I am reassembling lift arms . After cleaning and anti seize , they slide on / off by hand , they sure did not come off that way .

1- Loosening , cleaning , light oil / anti seize , retightening the rear axle nuts .

2 - Remove , clean , inspect , reinstall front axle pivot pin .

3 - Remove , clean , inspect , reinstall lift arms .

4- Remove , clean , inspect , reinstall brake drum screws (8n)

5 -
 
I will look into the seals. I'm not against doing something now that is going to help my future.

So, the big question kids, larger axle nut or the smaller type? I'm putting on new because someone years ago torqued on the right side using the smaller size available and obviously tried to use a pipe wrench to remove. So, it's buggered and still not off. I've worked it a bit for tools and gobs of PB. Today we apply heat. I liked the idea of the larger one having more contact area but read somewhere the smaller castellated nut is supposed to hold better? That was really the initial question of this post. I am a fix it right the first time guy and want to use the best parts and ask these seemingly simple questions bcause it is a machine I have no time wrenching on. It's not a Caterpillar or a Peterbuilt and has its own nuances. I value the opinions I have received here.
 
So, the big question kids, larger axle nut or the smaller type?

I don't know of how many types / sizes they make . The OEM are 2" and have a little hole in each flat so a spring clip will lock it , and the stripped thread locking type , which I believe is smaller .

You may want to see if the larger 2" nut fits on the other side and if the hole for the clip is plugged .
 
Yes! The outer seals are ordered! On the list. I tend to maybe not explain things throughly or step over a thought.
 
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