molinegb

Well-known Member
Who does babbitting of connecting rods? Inserts are worn out so rods would have to be poured. Not wanting to spend a fortune for 4 rods.
 
Hart's Machine service in Cecil, Oh does it. There are others. I'm going to pour my H rods and mains soon. Some say I'm crazy to try but it's something I want to do.
 
Keith Rucker of Vintage Machinery.org has many youtube videos of babbitt pours. I don't recall any connecting rods though but worth watching anyway.
 
Harts Machine did my connecting rods for my Fordson and did my friends Cushman scooter.
I highly recommend them .
Heres the link
http://www.hartsmachineservice.com/home.html
 
I third Hart's in Cecil Ohio. They have done several jobs for me including babbit and they are first rate
 
Located in Canada so not so easy. Does one rod have to be shipped as example? Be easier if could find inserts/shells and could be poured here.
 
I have never worked with babbit, but I have done lots of foundry work, brass and aluminum casting. Also lead sinkers and bullets.

Can you make a mold and cast babbit inserts instead of casting them directly into the rod?

If would take some machine work to make a good mold and perhaps finish the bearings after casting.

Just curious.
 
I worked in a shop several years ago that had equipment to pour and rebore connecting rods it was a neat experience. We had a dedicated machine to set them up in to get the proper center to center distance and bore them parallel to the wristpin bore. I got to pour and rebore several sets of LA Case rods.
 
The babbitt has to bind to the surface which has been tinned first. Also needs to be heated so the babbitt does not cool too quickly. Not an expert here but done some reading up on the process.
 
With Babbitt being so soft why would it be so big a deal. You can shave off extra sprue with a knife to get it closer to size then machine from there. I would think just from what little I know of machining that if you were to form it a bit smaller than the throws of the crank you could also machine it so they would be true and straight with the crank when installed. IT would also allow for a bit of in accuracy of the centering in the rod with the Babbitt. Since the shavings would be able to be melted down for more use later it would not be a total waste of material. Much like molding lead for jobs. Since most molds have a seam in them from the halves you get sprue which can be shaved off with a knife before most machining has to be done.
 
It's worth noting that there are several different alloys of Babbitt, and their mechanical properties differ. It's important when Babbitting to choose an alloy appropriate for the end use.
 
I'll add a little more info. For engine bearings it's grade 1 babbitt. 91% tin, 4.5% copper and 4.5% antimony. Got this from the JD collector center. I bought a 5 pound ingot, $105 from Victory White Metals in Cleveland and I'll probably use a bit more than a pound. I made up some molds when at my old job. A mandrel and pouring ring for the mains and two-sided one for the rods. Can pour both sides at once. Made pressing tools and a puller for the sleeve on the blind bearing.

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For anyone looking to buy babbitt I just bought a bar from RotoMetals and it was a lot less than McMaster Carr. Came in a few days and seems good although I haven't used it yet. They have quite a few different alloys of babbitt so you need to decide which you need/want.
 
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