Back on the roof

Tell that to the folks who build houses around here....expensive houses.....I added a 25x30 4/12 pitched roof, rafters on 24" centers, to my house back in abut '95 using that particle board. Last year had a new roof installed, removed old shingles and used 35 year replacement reinforced asphalt shingles rather than steel as I would die before the shingles would wear out. Decking was like new.
Course we don't have ice loads down here and that may be the difference!

Off topic....one day I was in a subdivision being built, new home getting decked, lots of peaks and valleys. One guy was up there and would call down some numbers in some sort of code or order. A guy on the ground cut a piece of decking, it got handed up to the decker, he set it in place and nailed it......perfect fit.....I was impressed.
Long term warranties are usually prorated after a few years. If they say it was not installed properly, tuff titty.
 
30 years ago I used 5/8 5 ply plywood. The felt got rained on and half the plywood sheets came unglued. That's the last time I used plywood.
After that I've used 1/2 osb.
Remember I sometimes have a snow load.

Which decking material would be better if you decided to go with metal after the next hurricane?
Must not have been CDX rated Plywood. That can stand a few wet days. Jim
 
30 years ago I used 5/8 5 ply plywood. The felt got rained on and half the plywood sheets came unglued. That's the last time I used plywood.
After that I've used 1/2 osb.
Remember I sometimes have a snow load.

Which decking material would be better if you decided to go with metal after the next hurricane?
OOLLLDDD Post!!!!! Must not have been CDX rated Plywood. That can stand a few wet days. Jim
 
7/16" sheathing placed on 24" center trusses..

You are lucky your roof doesn't look like a wash board.
 
Always remember that building codes are MINIMUM standards. I never build to "CODE" Always step UP from what code allows
 
The next heavy windy rainy storm, if you have access to the attic, see if you have wet spots. I did that and found a small leak. It wasn't dripping enough to get past insulation.
 
One of my pet peeves are old posts coming back to life. Why aren't old posts Read only, no replies? Grrrrr 😣
Does anyone read yesterday's newspaper?
If you want a time limit I would say once a post is listed on page 10, it is old news.
I don't read any posts on page 3.
Read only is still sharing information.
Posting on something that is a year old doesn't do the OP any good, like junk mail.
 
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How old is too old? This is an information sharing group. I often find helpful solutions in old threads and may have additional information to add.

What is your proposed cut off time for additional comments?

I am not certain about this forum, but on some you can un-subscribe from threads you are no longer interested in.
 
use an APA rated sheeting for 24 inch or smaller--the thickness of it doesn't tell the whole story--also the allowable deflection for a roof is L/180 where a floor it is L/360
And floor joists are on 16" centers rather than 24 on the roof.
 
More to think about, if your trusses are on 24 in centers your roof will sag between. If you put metal on your roof, the purlins would span over the sags and roof would be flatter.
The roof won't sag between trusses if adequate material for the span is used. Purlins will sag is not adequate for the span.
 
One of my pet peeves are old posts coming back to life. Why aren't old posts Read only, no replies? Grrrrr 😣
Does anyone read yesterday's newspaper?
If you want a time limit I would say once a post is listed on page 10, it is old news.
I don't read any posts on page 3.
Read only is still sharing information.
Posting on something that is a year old doesn't do the OP any good, like junk mail.
Compared to you Geo, all the rest of us here are just dumb.
 
7/16 OSB is ok on 16 inch rafter centers but, not so good on 24 inch centers. I would at least go back with 1/2 thickness and 5/8 would be even better. And also plywood instead of OSB.
the APA rating for maximum span is the best way to determine if the sheathing is adequate and the max deflection also determines where it is used--usually L/360 or L/180
 
Growing up in hurricane country and having worked on my own doing home repair and roofing, I have a little bit of experience with what you experienced. First, that little bit of 'give' is due to there only being a single layer of 7/16" OSB. I prefer plywood, but that has become prohibitively expensive! If using OSB, I would have preferred 3/4". But 7/16" is there and it meets code.

Second, you're closer to the coast than I was. I was on the north side of Houston. While we had a decent buffer from the blunt of hurricanes, I've seen enough video to know that if wind has ANYTHING to grab hold of on your house or outbuildings, the roof and even the building can go bye-bye. So this one is on you, John. Only you can say if you want to invest more money to beef up your roof.

All that said, your roof is your primary defense at keeping Mother Nature out of your home and making that home your shelter from the storm. So again, you need to decide if you want to beef it up or let it be.

...Just wanted to re-state what you already know. It's a tough decision, for sure!
BE SURE to get the foil backed osb... incredible difference in a/c bill down here in the south. Incredible!!!!!
 
7/16 OSB is ok on 16 inch rafter centers but, not so good on 24 inch centers. I would at least go back with 1/2 thickness and 5/8 would be even better. And also plywood instead of OSB.
If yo have 24" on centers I wouldn't go with less than 1/2 anything for underlayment. I have 24' on centers on my house with 1/2 plywood and it has some movement when nailing to it. so less would be more.
 
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