Bad Ball Joint warning signs

RedMF40

Not from Iceland!
I'll just start with my actual question: can ball joints fail without advance warning? No wobble or bad steering or some such?

I had my F250 SD in for alignment and this was quite some time ago. Over a year. They wouldn't do it because they said one of the ball joints was loose. I'd just had it replaced within the previous six months. I've been driving the truck, replaced outer tie rod ends myself because one side was failing, did the rocking back and forth (top and bottom of tire) test and didn't feel any play that might suggest bad ball joints. Truck drives normally, no rattles or shakes.

I plan to replace the ball joints--both sides. Just need a little shove. Do it now because the truck isn't going to ask me nicely?

Thanks for any info or suggestions. (When I did the tie rod ends I just used a gauge I made to get the wheels back to where they were and the truck tracks straight and the steering wheel is centered, but I didn't have an alignment done).

Gerrit
 
Ball joints can fail over time or all at once. It is up to them to decide how and when.

Jacking a truck up and "wiggling" the tire will only let you know that the ball joints are beyond needing replaced.

With the truck raised. You need to get under it to where you can see or remove the tire. Use a pry bar to pry between the joint and A arm. You can see movement between the two long before it gets bad enough to feel by wiggling the tire or while driving if they are bad.

A good alignment shop will check all of the steering components before doing an alignment. And if any one of them are bad. An alignment can't be done properly.
 
I'll just start with my actual question: can ball joints fail without advance warning? No wobble or bad steering or some such?

I had my F250 SD in for alignment and this was quite some time ago. Over a year. They wouldn't do it because they said one of the ball joints was loose. I'd just had it replaced within the previous six months. I've been driving the truck, replaced outer tie rod ends myself because one side was failing, did the rocking back and forth (top and bottom of tire) test and didn't feel any play that might suggest bad ball joints. Truck drives normally, no rattles or shakes.

I plan to replace the ball joints--both sides. Just need a little shove. Do it now because the truck isn't going to ask me nicely?

Thanks for any info or suggestions. (When I did the tie rod ends I just used a gauge I made to get the wheels back to where they were and the truck tracks straight and the steering wheel is centered, but I didn't have an alignment done).

Gerrit
This is where I get my front end parts. Warning when installing those ball joints follow the tightening procedure to the tee are it will have memory steer.


To the question YES. I don't think fail is the right word they acquire unacceptable ware without showing the symptoms you mentioned.
 
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We had a front end shop that was notorius for telling people that they needed ball joints, including vehicles that just had them replaced. Caught them doing it a couple times. Too long a long story to tell how we confronted them, suffice it to say they weren't pleased tp be called liars, by two journeymen.
 
This is where I get my front end parts. Warning when installing those ball joints follow the tightening procedure to the tee are it will have memory steer.


To the question YES. I don't think fail is the right word they acquire unacceptable ware without showing the symptoms you mentioned.
Thanks. I know you recommended a place for parts, but I’m looking at these ball joints from rock auto in their premium lineup. Any opinion on the brand?
 

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My 2006 duramax has half a million km on it and has the original tie rods and ball joints. When I change oil I grease the front end each time. Greasing is the answer to prevent premature wear. And yes when I was doing wheel alignments a front end check was a must along with tire pressure. These shops nowadays I don’t trust one bit. First thing they will tell you is they found worn out parts.
 
Ball joints can fail over time or all at once. It is up to them to decide how and when.

Jacking a truck up and "wiggling" the tire will only let you know that the ball joints are beyond needing replaced.

With the truck raised. You need to get under it to where you can see or remove the tire. Use a pry bar to pry between the joint and A arm. You can see movement between the two long before it gets bad enough to feel by wiggling the tire or while driving if they are bad.

A good alignment shop will check all of the steering components before doing an alignment. And if any one of them are bad. An alignment can't be done properly.
I’ve seen that done with the pry bar. I think the alignment shop did find a little play because the man who did the ball joints was known to use the cheapest parts available. It’s possible one side started wearing prematurely. I just want to get on top of this before I run into a dangerous situation out on the road. Thanks for the detailed info. Gerrit
 
I’ve seen that done with the pry bar. I think the alignment shop did find a little play because the man who did the ball joints was known to use the cheapest parts available. It’s possible one side started wearing prematurely. I just want to get on top of this before I run into a dangerous situation out on the road. Thanks for the detailed info. Gerrit
You need to put a jack under the lower control arm as close to the bell joint as possible. Get the wheel jacked up enough to get a short pry bar under the tire. Then lift up on the tire and you will see how much the ball joint lifts out of its socket. If you have 1/4 “ off red more get them replaced fast. At 1/8” you have wear but it’s not serious. Lots of the Chrysler products allowed 3/16 of an inch. That’s where many shops made money , ooh you have loose ball joints ! Bottoms wear before the top ones. To check the top ones push in and out at the top of the tire. It should be tight.
 
Parts are bad is the big front end racks scam.I had one tell me the tie rod end was bad because he could squeeze it up to the tire rod cross rod with channel locks I said you can do that with a new one.
 
Garages have a lot of scams, like the dirtiest air intake filter they show you to convince yours needs changing immediately. We can't issue an inspection sticker until you replace the 2 front tires and have a front end alignment. I had this one pulled on me but didn't work. I left and went elsewhere. The next station inspected it. I ran those tires for over 10,000 miles before I replaced them. Trouble is 99% of the people don't know a thing about cars so they are easy prey for the scammers. 🧑‍🌾
 
The things I look for: does it pull to the left or right and are tires wearing funny? If yes then something in the front end is/could be wore out. Or Illinois roads have knocked something out of alignment 🤨
 
Thanks. I know you recommended a place for parts, but I’m looking at these ball joints from rock auto in their premium lineup. Any opinion on the brand?
No opinion other than I am going to do it as a once and done repair and not taking a chance on a product I have no history of. This has been discussed on professional forums its hard to beat OEM.

You did not give enoufh info I take it 2x4 the year and engine size would be nice to know. If its mid 90's you can plan on going after it all, Axle Pivot Bushing, Radius Arm Bushing. Mother nature has taken its toll they have lived their useful life.
 
No opinion other than I am going to do it as a once and done repair and not taking a chance on a product I have no history of. This has been discussed on professional forums its hard to beat OEM.

You did not give enoufh info I take it 2x4 the year and engine size would be nice to know. If it’s mid 90's you can plan on going after it all, Axle Pivot Bushing, Radius Arm Bushing. Mother nature has taken its toll they have lived their useful life.
‘99 F250 SD 2WD with the big V10. Rusty old truck but pretty good running condition. I’ve owned for about 10 years now.
 
Tire store i deal with been in business since 1950 ish. Same family. Need tires you get tires. They play no tricks. If your current tires are worn but wearing evenly they do not mention alignment. Took a “new” er car by after we bought it and asked them to check brakes. Had slight noise when first moving after sitting. Watched thru window at tech as he pulled all 4 wheels and looked. Came back in and said i was good to go. Said brakes look new. No charge. Supervisor said we did not do anything so no charge. Took a utv tire by i had go flat. Left it and went back. No charge. Nothing in tire. Must have just gotten low and hit something to let air out they said. .
 
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I’ve seen that done with the pry bar. I think the alignment shop did find a little play because the man who did the ball joints was known to use the cheapest parts available. It’s possible one side started wearing prematurely. I just want to get on top of this before I run into a dangerous situation out on the road. Thanks for the detailed info. Gerrit
If you can not get it to wiggle with a pry bar the shop is probably trying to make extra money. I have seen it to many times. I don't think they can fail as in fall off and leave you stranded if that is what you are asking.
 
Tire store i deal with been in business since 1950 ish. Same family. Need tires you get tires. They play no tricks. If your current tires are worn but wearing evenly they do not mention alignment. Took a “new” er carbyafter we bought it and asked them to check brakes. Had slight noise when first moving after sitting. Watched thru window at tech as he pulled all 4 wheels and looked. Came back in and said i was good to go. Said brakes look new. No charge. Supervisor said we did not do anything so no charge. Took a utv tire by i had go flat. Left it and went back. No charge. Nothing in tire. Must have just gotten low and hit something to let air out they said. .
that is the kind of business's that is my kind of place to go.
 
In 1985 my son inherited my dad's old 1975 Chrysler New yorker brougham.
I took it in to have a front end alignment. They said it needed all new front end parts, $900.
I told them I'll get the parts and replace them myself and bring them back in for an alignment.
I jacked up the front wheels, grabbed the top and bottom of the tire and shook it.
Absolutely nothing wrong with the ball joint or any other parts. The wheel bearing needed to be tightened.
That taught me a valuable lesson. When a mechanic tells you something is wrong, verify before telling them go ahead and fix it.
I found a different place I trust to do my alignment work.
I could make a long list of things I've been told needed replaced that didn't,
Air filters and cabin filters are at the top of the list.
This is a pic of the internet of the old lead sled. 440 cubic inches.
1759263545940.png
 
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