bad starter switch

G.Bott

Member
How common is it for the push button to go bad. The one under the hood. 1941 Ford 9n, just completed 12v conversion and have 12v to one side of switch but not to otherside when its pushed in. This is the second switch that I will put on it. I had replaced the one when it was 6v system and the guy was running 12v battery.

Thanks,
G.Bott
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:47 10/04/09) How common is it for the push button to go bad. The one under the hood. 1941 Ford 9n, just completed 12v conversion and have 12v to one side of switch but not to otherside when its pushed in. This is the second switch that I will put on it. I had replaced the one when it was 6v system and the guy was running 12v battery.

Thanks,
G.Bott

I have seen tell of folks on here having problems with wear in the mechanical part.

9n-start-switch.jpg
 
If you are talking about the one I think you are that is activated by a rod connecting it to the floor switch, pull it out and look at the top of the switch where the rod pushes it. The replacement one I bought at TSC was concave on the top and did not work. The NOS switch sent to me by a good guy from this forum had a convex top that made it most of 1/4 inch higher and it operated fine. Both had continuity. But to answer your question, the original switch on our '44 2N was bad. So it happens.
 
(quoted from post at 21:49:31 10/04/09) If you are talking about the one I think you are that is activated by a rod connecting it to the floor switch, pull it out and look at the top of the switch where the rod pushes it. The replacement one I bought at TSC was concave on the top and did not work. The NOS switch sent to me by a good guy from this forum had a convex top that made it most of 1/4 inch higher and it operated fine. Both had continuity. But to answer your question, the original switch on our '44 2N was bad. So it happens.

Hmmmm....

Interesting...

It shouldn't be hard to put a blob of solder on top of it, that would do that very thing.
 
The one I have on it was working and is a replacement part off this website. So I don't know if it went bad again.
Thanks,
G.Bott
 
(quoted from post at 22:07:20 10/04/09) The one I have on it was working and is a replacement part off this website. So I don't know if it went bad again.
Thanks,
G.Bott

Un-bolt it from the tractor, and push the button with yer hands, with the wires attached. Make dayum sure it is out of gear.

That should answer the question.
 
I recently replaced a starter switch on a 2N. I went to a New Holland dealer for the new switch and was given a 9N11450A with an adapter. Not the original 9N11450B. They wanted $58 plus tax for the conversion kit. Crazy.

I ended up ordering the 9N11450B online.
 
Mine did not work when I bought the tractor(47- 2N) in Sept. "95. I removed it and washed it out good with carb spray and gasoline. Blew it and dried it good with compressed air. Re-installed and been working ever since. Note: Yours may be a different type. As I recall, mine just has a rod on the bottom that pushes on another rod, no wires. Mine was just so full of crud it couldn"t do its thing..
 
(quoted from post at 22:56:14 10/04/09) Mine did not work when I bought the tractor(47- 2N) in Sept. "95. I removed it and washed it out good with carb spray and gasoline. Blew it and dried it good with compressed air. Re-installed and been working ever since. Note: Yours may be a different type. As I recall, mine just has a rod on the bottom that pushes on another rod, no wires. Mine was just so full of crud it couldn"t do its thing..

It had to have wires.

It's a starter switch for goodness sake.
 
Sounds to me like he's talkin about the manual push button up by the gearshift. Mine is the restoration quality switch off this website that is inline from battery to starter and is engaged by the manual button next to gearshift. Dunk knows what part. I'm gonna undo the bolts and push it with my finger to check.
G.Bott
 
I pulled the switch out and it worked by hand, the problem is at the manual push button.
Thanks again,
G.Bott
 
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