Balers ford 520

Lamommy1

Member
hello everyone I have a Ford 520 hay baler, impossible to raise the needles even by hand the cam clutch block. what can prevent the clutch from making a full turn?I disconnected the needles from the clutch, by hand the needles go up and down as they should. thank you for helping me
 
I have only been around IH balers but I believe all brands are fairly similar. I believe basically anything thing stuck, binding or locked in either knotter head can stop rotation. Did the knotter drive shear pin get sheared? If so anything stuck in a knotter or stripped gears in there can stop rotation. Pictures are probably the best way to communicate your problem. I hope I am not shooting out breeze due to difference in brands. Was/is this a working baler? I take it you have some type of manual by using a term like “cam clutch”
CNHI Ford 520 parts catalog Just for grins adding a link to the online parts catalog for it.
 
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thank you for the answer. before we transported it, the needles were going up and down, continuing because a spring was missing on the clutch pawl we installed the spring and then even if we release it manually it does not go all the way around. I'll take some photos and get back to you thank you
 
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this is the side of baler
 

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Here are scans out of the 520 Operators manual for Adjustment of the Clutch Bell Crank and Needle Yoke Brake
Hope they can help you
I will sell manual if you want
 

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On IH balers if the needles slip down out of the “home” position there is a stop that pops up in front of the plunger that stops it and takes out the shear pin. Is there something like this blocking it. You say you disconnected the needles and say they go up and down like they should but do they make the FULL stroke? Maybe those adjustment pages will help. It is really hard to do much repair or adjustments on the knotters and needles of square baler without a manual.
 
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I don't know much about ford balers but a manual is a good investment. Also go back to last thing you did. Is the clutch/cam engaging or is something bound?
 
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This may be a longshot but I noticed the trigger arm is not in the bale rotor. (These names not be correct).I circled the area in yellow to look at....
 

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That looks like an issue that should be trip arm and metering wheel. Put it in and see if it works. I will tell you on balers springs can be touchy on length compression etc. Sometimes a hardware store one won't work correctly.
 
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I didn't notice when I took the photo but even though it's inside it doesn't work.
thank you for your help regarding the spring I was not able to find the original, I'm going to try different springs.
 
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I didn't notice when I took the photo but even though it's inside it doesn't work.
thank you for your help regarding the spring I was not able to find the original, I'm going to try different springs.
Those springs are usually particular to the machine. The pawl spring (7501820) is available on eBay or you can get it from the Parts Depot, which you can order through your local NH or CaseIH dealer.

Mike
 
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thank you all, I found the problem with your help, it was the piece which is in red in the photo which was jammer. I cleaned it well and everything works even if it's not the original springs. a big thank you
 

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I think you should consider getting the spring that AMF found.

If the spring is too wimpy it will not hold the trip arm firmly against the metering wheel and the bale length will vary.

Too strong and it will eventually snap off the roller bolt , the clutch will never disengage and all sorts of carnage will ensue.

Should be an eyebolt where you have the wire attached .
 
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